1ZZFE - Oil burning fixes - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
8th Generation (1998-2002) Specific discussion of the 8th generation

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#1 Old 08-14-2009, 08:33 PM
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1ZZFE - Oil burning fixes

I know it's another oil burning thread. But I'm starting a new one because it seems there are millions of threads on the subject full of speculation. But very little on results after attempting to fix it. A new piston/ring set seems to be the most common recommendation. Does it actually work?

Can anyone out there who has seen this problem fixed explain what was done? Or at least what was tried and did not work?

As for me, I purchased my 2001 Corolla CE 1.8L a while back. Only 58K miles. Had it checked out by mechanics and they gave me the clean bill of health. Not long later, the oil light starts coming on. No oil! I've since measured it burning a quart of oil every 400 miles. I now religiously watch my oil level, and top it off when needed. My last oil change, I tried dumping in half a bottle of seafoam, ran that for 15 minutes, but no luck.
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#2 Old 08-14-2009, 08:42 PM
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One thing to add,

I've been doing by best to research. I must have read thousands of posts by now on the subject. The most interesting to me seemed to be:

http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=146762

"There is a known problem with the 1ZZ engine with a piston and ring fault. Basically the oil drain holes in the piston are insufficient, causing them to clog, thus causing the oil control ring to also carbon up.
This leads to excessive oil consumption, and regardless of oil type(semi/full synthetic) this cannot be seen in the exhaust(thanks to the Cat!!)
This often leads to bore scuffing and wear as carbon builds up, and oil level falls(especially as owners usually have little idea of what to do with a dipstick!!) This has lead to some engines being rebuilt/replaced.
Theres now a modified short block assembly(and piston/ring set) to cure this. "

Another helpful link was here, where a guy said he read a Russian site where a mechanic decided once and for all to determine where the burning oil was coming from, dismantled the engine slowly, took photos step by step, and came to the conclusion it was oil drain holes getting clogged:

http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/i...&st=0&p=717266

If the above are correct, will new pistons and rings do the trick? I know little about cars myself, and am doing my best to research the problem well enough so I can get the problem fixed the first time.
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#3 Old 08-24-2009, 11:10 PM
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i just replaced and rebuilt that engine, there are small holes on the pistons and yes they do get clogged and the oil ring gets all carboned up. now what i think would stop that from happening, is well starting with a fresh build engine, if the rings are in good condition just needs to be cleaned, clean them and the oil holes and reuse them, put them EXACTLY the way they came out (i havnt found a product that cleans rings, once they are carboned up i dont see how to get them clean again) So drive the damn thing hard!, the engine loves a hard workout, that means revving it to 6000-6500 or more RPMS (7000 is redline) before shifting, use good oil, keep an eye on it, it takes 15 seconds to check it., Every 1zzfe engine i worked on was all carboned. prevent this from happening.
What i did:
cleaned all pistons
made sure those piston holes are clean
cleaned the chamber walls and bottom of head valves.\

This one is a common blowing blue smoke problem and solution:
That PCV valve on the valve cover lets unburnt gases/air and such past it right back into the intake manifold for emissions. take the valve off and make sure it rattles first, blow into the hose side, you should not be able to blow through it, but if you blow through the other side you should be able to. If thats so, it works. clean the hose if its oiled up, turn the car on and spray alot of sensor safe intake cleaner into the intake to get that film of oil out of it which can cause blue smoke. I know this because it worked on mine.
A Reason why theres alot of oil past that pcv valve, hose and intake:
Too much oil in the engine, should be 3.8L not anymore.
Rings could be damaged allowing compression past

Last edited by Fergifruitchew; 08-25-2009 at 04:34 PM.
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#4 Old 08-25-2009, 04:27 PM
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Thanks for the reply.

I'm wondering if it's a good idea to get my engine into the shop now to try and prevent any wear on the piston walls (in hopes of saving what I've got), or if I'm safe waiting a year or so to build up the cash needed for this job.
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#5 Old 08-25-2009, 04:34 PM
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in the shop, you mean rebuild it? take it apart and clean it all?
if you live in the states go get yourself some Zmax micro lubricant for your engine. its not an oil additive, its a lubricant. Zmax will definitly get rid of carbon build up and keeps things really clean, goto the site and watch the video its incredible. Unfortunately i live in canada so i have to order it all online.
Now when you ran out of oil, were you actually out of oil? if so you need to check your rod bearings for scoring, and replace them if they have it.

Last edited by Fergifruitchew; 08-25-2009 at 04:36 PM.
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#6 Old 08-25-2009, 04:47 PM
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Can I dump zMax into my engine and run it another 2,000 miles before my next oil change? Or should I only put it in right before I do an oil change? As I mentioned before, I tried Seafoam right before I changed my oil last time, and I had no luck. I'm happy to try zMax if that can save me the cost of an engine rebuild :P

When I ran out of oil, I only had about half a quart left (just enough to make the oil light flicker a tad). From what the Tunex people told me, now my chain and/or tensioner is a bit damaged, causing a clacking noise (which I can now hear, but it's not terribly loud). The guy at the shop said if it were his car he's just use the timing chain until it gets too loud, then replace it.

What I mentioned in my last post is that I wonder if there's any advantages to getting the engine worked on now in the shop instead of waiting a year. I've read some posts which say that stuck rings tends to score and damage the engine a bit from the inside. I think. I'm just wondering if it's essential that I get my car into a shop ASAP to prevent more damage.
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#7 Old 08-25-2009, 05:00 PM
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your suppost to put zmax in AFTER you put NEW oil in the engine, but you can probably add it to your used oil right now and run it for 2000 more yes
I have yet to try zmax for myself but what ive seen on videos it literally eats carbon right in front of your eyes. If you add it to your oil right now, give it some time to work and im sure in the end you will have less carbon on your oil scraper rings and such. Ive tried that seafoam stuff, i have the one you add to your fuel, and one in a spray can you spray into your intake while the car is running, did you add the fuel one to your oil? you can, it wont hurt it.
About the timing chain, if it snaps while your driving, the pistons will not touch the valves, so dont worry about damaging anything. first off, before putting any money into the engine like new chain. you need to check the rod bearings and the crankshaft, if the crankshaft has scoring-that thing is toast. get either a new used engine or get the crank fixed at a machine shop costing you around 200 bucks.
If your bearings are fine check your piston rings, if you dont want to, just do a compression test, you know how to right?
You should do a compression test right now and write down the numbers and compare, that will tell you if your rings are good or bad, hopefully good.
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#8 Old 08-28-2009, 04:18 AM
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I hate to correct you but in the 1.8l 1zz-fe the valves will hit the pistons if the timing chain breaks. I know this from personal experience. I bent all 16 valves in my 98 corolla le.
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#9 Old 08-28-2009, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergifruitchew View Post
So drive the damn thing hard!, the engine loves a hard workout, that means revving it to 6000-6500 or more RPMS (7000 is redline) before shifting,
what year car do you have, cus my revlimiter steps in at 6250, and i would like to know how your reving to 7k? is it a stock ecu? do the 5 speed ecus have a higher redline? if so then i need to swap mine.
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#10 Old 08-28-2009, 11:22 AM
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i replaced the engine in my 98 corolla CE 5 speed, with another stock engine, didnt change a thing. Although i have a different instrument cluster(same car maybe 99) but i dont think that matters

i bet the manual 5spd does have a higher rev limiter. You see i dont know what the autos rev out at. You should switch, the power is much better

Last edited by Fergifruitchew; 08-28-2009 at 11:37 AM.
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#11 Old 08-28-2009, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergifruitchew View Post
i replaced the engine in my 98 corolla CE 5 speed, with another stock engine, didnt change a thing. Although i have a different instrument cluster(same car maybe 99) but i dont think that matters

i bet the manual 5spd does have a higher rev limiter. You see i dont know what the autos rev out at. You should switch, the power is much better
i would but i dont want to pay 100 for an ecu off ebay, and i cant find any manual ecus locally.

this is one reason i want to put my megaquirt in, but have been lasy about setting up the board for waste spark, its currently setup to run a 4age vast ignition system.

edit: i just found a 5 speed one on ebay for 43 shipped, so i bought it. lol

Last edited by Milky; 08-28-2009 at 11:53 AM.
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#12 Old 08-28-2009, 12:00 PM
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Are you running an EMS system too? I can't believe that there is that much difference between the cars in Canada and the US.

I've driven a 7th gen Celica GT and 2001 Corolla both with 5-speeds. The Celica had a redline of 6750RPMs, the Corolla was at 6250RPMs. The Celica has been know to be able to rev higher - but not on the stock ECM - the fuel cutoff will step in well before it will let you rev it much past redline. On the Corolla - auto or manual - it steps in right away at redline.

2002 Toyota Corolla S, 1.8L 1ZZ-FE VVT-i
2003 Toyota Matrix XRS, 1.8L 2ZZ-GE, VVTL-i (RIP)
2009 Toyota Matrix XRS, 2.4L 2AZ-FE VVT-i
2009 Toyota RAV4 Limited, 2.5L 2AR-FE Dual VVT-i
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#13 Old 08-28-2009, 12:28 PM
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lol right on, install and let me know what it does for you! I just hope there is a difference. As i said before, i dont have the stock cluster, so maybe the one i have redlines at 7000 and my engine revs out at normal but the tac reads wrong because its not stock. My cluster has what looks like a different color scheme, possible ebay mod?

as for EMS it could be different i honestly dont know, ive driven an 06 celica, i cannot remember what it redlines at, ive only sat and driven in 1 corolla(mine) its been lotsa years since ive seen what a stock corolla cluster looks like(mines possibly modified so it seems). i just hope Milky's 5spd ecu he just bought actually does something, can someone confirm this rev limit thing? maybe i need to change mine to see the truth.

Last edited by Fergifruitchew; 08-28-2009 at 12:43 PM.
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#14 Old 08-28-2009, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fergifruitchew View Post
lol right on, install and let me know what it does for you! I just hope there is a difference. As i said before, i dont have the stock cluster, so maybe the one i have redlines at 7000 and my engine revs out at normal but the tac reads wrong because its not stock. My cluster has what looks like a different color scheme, possible ebay mod?
i have had 3 different clusters, on no tach (gay), one black with tach, and now the white/silver face with tach. all tach red 6250 at rev limit. so i would think there correct. i always felt like the car just got moving then hit the limiter. it needs a higher rpm. but i also have a celica gt intake manifold and throttle body, so it pulls pretty hard on the top end, esp with the 6 speed.
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#15 Old 08-28-2009, 12:51 PM
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is your corolla an auto? or manual? For your celica, you must be used to the power it produces and getting back in the corolla, it must seem gutless!, i know mine did lol (only until i rebuilt the engine cleaned all carbon) since the cleaning, wow im impressed with the stock power of my corolla.
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