Need Rings????

[tmabry]

I have the head off of a 2000 1.8 with 97K because of a burnt #3 exhaust valve. Watch out for those head bolts by the way! After reading some of the the oil consumption posts I'm thinking I'd be a fool not to go ahead and replace the rings. Any thoughts? Is it possible to modify the existing pistons by adding extra oil drain holes since that seems to be the cause of stuck rings? (I'm on a budget.) I don't know the history of this car so I don't know if it was burning any oil before the valve went. And while I'm here are these engines known for burning valves?

[fishexpo101]

Engine is not known for burned valves - oil consumption on earlier models could be pretty bad. Since you have the head off of it and can take the downtime - I would be a good idea to go ahead and do the rings.

But if you are on a budget, might be better to wait until you are in a better position to work on the engine - there are always those extra costs that always seems to come up when you least expect it. One of those, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" type of thing. This will have to be your call. There are a lot of oil burners out there - but there are even more that don't have any oil consumptions either.

I would be more concerned about the valve and why it burned. Many times, there is an underlying cause - simple cases are valve fatigue from mechanical and thermal stresses. Other times, there could be a hot spot in combustion chamber - if that isn't resolved, you'll end up burning the new valve as well.

I'd fix the valve first (probably have to recut the seats + new valve seals, check valve stems on all - may need to replace them all, etc.), - if you have money left over in the budget for new rings - then I'd go ahead and go for it - say you from having to open it back in the future.

[tmabry]

I've decided to go ahead do a complete valve job and replace the rings. I'd feel stupid if I didn't do the rings and it used oil. My guess is maybe a vacuum leak took out he valve. Thanks for the good advice.

"The cheap man spends the most."

[JeffG]

Can you do the rings from the top end with the block still mounted in the corolla?

[randini667]

My exhaust valves #1 and #4 burnt out on me just recently, so I will likewise be pulling the head and grinding the valves. I like the idea of doing the rings alongside since it burns oil hardcore, but I will have to verify that you can pull pistons from above, I heard you can. Since I'm on a budget like yourself, I'm really only looking to get by for now. Another 40-50k or 2-3 years would be a blessing.

I had a couple questions for you...

1) Since you have pulled the cylinder head, any advice when I do mine? Autozone guides recommend pulling crank pulley, ac, alt, chain cover etc... but there must be an easier way.

2) How are you going about the rings? From above, engine pull, other method?

3) What do you mean "watch out for those head bolts" ? lol

Like I said, I'm interested in what you are doing since I'm in the process as well. Keep us posted! Hope all goes well.

-Rand

[tmabry]

Right now I have the engine torn down as far as I am going to go. The head is on it's way to the machine shop. To answer your questions:

1) You pretty much have to pull the front cover off since that is where the chain tensioner is. I don't see any way around it but maybe a Totota expert might. It's not too difficult, just a bunch of bolts. The P/S is sort of a pain to get off. The crank pulley can be gently pried off. You may as well replace the front crank seal and think about the water pump as well since it has to come off. Thermostat?

2) The pistions come out the top. You will need a 10mm 12 point socket for the rod bolts. Keep the bearings in the same spots they came out of. FYI: my rings were not stuck and the cylinder walls looked OK for 97K but I will still replace the rings. Here's an interesting find. I found #4 rod bearings to be coming apart. They weren't spun, just looked flakey. So...new rod bearings.

3) The head bolts use a 12mm 12 point allen socket. Use a good one! Don't use an impact!! Use a breakover bar to loosen them. Luckily I had the right socket left over from a VW job 20 years ago but I still managed to strip out a bolt. I had to use a 1/2 in bit and drill out the head. Not fun.

Good luck!

[tmabry]

Forgot to mention I'm leaving the engine in the car since there is no need to pull it. You may want to use a digital camera and take plenty of pictures.

[randini667]

Thanks for the info. Later this week I'll be jumping in head first.

Hope all goes well.

[tmabry]

Update:
Got the car running this weekend and it seems to be doing fine. It does run rough when cold and I have a code for the coolant sensor and an ineffiecent cat. I'll put a sensor in it but probably not a cat. The only other caution is to remove the VVT soleniod before you try to remove the head bolts. You can get the socket it on the R/F bolt but when it comes out it will break the soleniod. Lesson learned. Poor design.

[fishexpo101]

Thanks for the update - make sure to take pics as you progress, if possible.

Good tip - yeah, that oil control solenoid should be removed first before the headbolts. Some manuals I've seen don't point that out, but in the Toyota Factory Service Manual - it does not stripping the head before touching the headbolts.

[randini667]

Originally Posted by tmabry

Update:
...remove the VVT soleniod before you try to remove the head bolts. You can get the socket it on the R/F bolt but when it comes out it will break the soleniod...

I guess I didn't notice the solenoid, nor have a problem. I'll have to check into this.

I was able to pull the head without removing the front plate and accessories. I marked and removed the smaller cam sprocket to accomplish this. Held the timing chain up tight with a broom so that I could turn the crank.

[CJCride]

Nice Shot.

[randini667]

Hey Tmabry,

How did you keep the valve caps in tolerance if you had the valves ground?

-Randy