Starting with a stock Corolla 8th gen. there are some restrictions that prevent the car from performing 100%. Post quick/cheap Tips to improve engine power!
1) I hear changing the under-drive pulleys can make quite a bit of a difference. Light weight material and different circumference pulleys add a bit more HP/Torque by harnessing the performance that the engine is already set to output. What are some options for the 8th gen. Corolla:
What manufacturer to choose (i.e. AEM....)?
Which pulleys to replace?
Locating the parts for the best price?
2) What other restrictive pieces, other than the air intake and exhaust, can be taken off and improved in order to get more power out of the engine?
Getting tangible engine power and cheap should never go together. If it can be easily be done, it would have already be on the car from the manufacturer.
I wouldn't recommend pulleys - just asking for trouble with underdriven pulleys (could run into an undercharging condition). Lighter ones, that is better - as long as you maintain the dynamic balance of the crankshaft. Reduction of rotating mass does help, just have to make sure that you are not trading performance for engine life - unless you enjoy swapping in a replacement engine every couple of years.
For a highly optimized engine, like the 1ZZ-FE, there are not a whole lot of options for getting significant power gains without going the forced induction route or extensive tuning wit ha piggyback or standalone EMS system - neither one of them I would consider "cheap".
Easiest, least expensive way to booster performance - is to leave the engine as is and lighten the car. Every 100lbs you can shave off the car, is equivalent to adding 5-10HP to the engine. One of the easiest mods to do. Automatic to manual transaxle swap is another good way to "free" power - 5-speed weights a good bit less than the automatic and has a better drive-line efficiency to boot.
Bolt ons generally have a very limited effect on overall engine power, unless they are accompanied with the appropriate engine tune as well. The OEM ECM has a limited adjustment range, implementing a significant change will only hurt power potential. Even with a decent EMS and tune - don't expect more than 8-10WHP with typical bolt ons.
That's what I meant by cheap, I just don't want to go the forced induction route and the EMS computer is far off my christmas list. I did however find a set of pulleys:
UR pulleys are a known brand. Alutec is another that is well received.
Used to run a set of pulleys (lightweight and underdriven) on a previous car - ended up destroying the main bearings fairly quickly. For the gains I saw, wasn't worth the end expense. There is a mixed bag with the lightweight crank pulleys on the 1ZZ-FE, on the 2ZZ-GE - there was definitely an issue there, lots of Celica GT-S, Matrix XRS/Vibe GT running a lightweight pulley had engine issues. Can't remember if it was a harmonic issue (most likely) or a design issue (pulley chewed up the front seal) - but was recommended not to run a lightweight pulley on the 2ZZ-GE.
With those pulleys, the underdriven alternator pulley will give you the least likely damage to the engine (harmonic imbalance) - but also most likely to kill your charging system, depending on how you drive the car (average engine speeds, distance between points, how often, etc.). That is more for fuel savings than anything else. The lightened crank pulley will probably have a larger impact on overall engine power - but keep in mind that you could run into a dynamic balance issue. The OEM crank pulley is more or less balanced, not a what I'd call a fully dampened pulley - but you can tell that pains were taken to make sure the rotational balance was preserved (note: not really a "balancer" - the OEM crank helps absorb vibrations from the accessories). Doesn't take a lot to mess up the bearings.
Take it as it may - completely up to you on how to approach the pulley issue. There are plenty of cars running pulleys that seem to be perfectly fine, there are others that had the bearings wiped from excessive vibration. Personally, I've had bearing issues the first time I've used pulleys, so I haven't used them since. Given the other avenues to increase performance, I've opted to stay on the side of caution - and for-go pulleys. To me, it was not worth the 1-3HP potential gain, even with the better pulleys.
UR pulleys are a known brand. Alutec is another that is well received.
Used to run a set of pulleys (lightweight and underdriven) on a previous car - ended up destroying the main bearings fairly quickly. For the gains I saw, wasn't worth the end expense. There is a mixed bag with the lightweight crank pulleys on the 1ZZ-FE, on the 2ZZ-GE - there was definitely an issue there, lots of Celica GT-S, Matrix XRS/Vibe GT running a lightweight pulley had engine issues. Can't remember if it was a harmonic issue (most likely) or a design issue (pulley chewed up the front seal) - but was recommended not to run a lightweight pulley on the 2ZZ-GE.
With those pulleys, the underdriven alternator pulley will give you the least likely damage to the engine (harmonic imbalance) - but also most likely to kill your charging system, depending on how you drive the car (average engine speeds, distance between points, how often, etc.). That is more for fuel savings than anything else. The lightened crank pulley will probably have a larger impact on overall engine power - but keep in mind that you could run into a dynamic balance issue. The OEM crank pulley is more or less balanced, not a what I'd call a fully dampened pulley - but you can tell that pains were taken to make sure the rotational balance was preserved (note: not really a "balancer" - the OEM crank helps absorb vibrations from the accessories). Doesn't take a lot to mess up the bearings.
Take it as it may - completely up to you on how to approach the pulley issue. There are plenty of cars running pulleys that seem to be perfectly fine, there are others that had the bearings wiped from excessive vibration. Personally, I've had bearing issues the first time I've used pulleys, so I haven't used them since. Given the other avenues to increase performance, I've opted to stay on the side of caution - and for-go pulleys. To me, it was not worth the 1-3HP potential gain, even with the better pulleys.
i have had an underdrive crank pulley and alternator pulley on for over a year, i have had no problems. i honestly think it was an issue with the pulleys chewing up the front cover seal. i have had underdrives on all my cars i have owned. never had any bearing issues with any of them.
i have had an underdrive crank pulley and alternator pulley on for over a year, i have had no problems. i honestly think it was an issue with the pulleys chewing up the front cover seal. i have had underdrives on all my cars i have owned. never had any bearing issues with any of them.
Just for clarification, is this for 1ZZ-FE engine?
I have considered purchasing a set and installing only the accessory pulleys, but keeping the crank (harmonic balancer) pulley STOCK. I hope that will keep the balance together because i want to avoid problems with chewing up the bearings, seizing the engine etc...
Lighten it up to help you achieve your goals of going quicker.
Remember this is a Corolla, not anything that was designed to go real quick or fast.
The whole package needs to be looked at if you intend on getting anything out of it. Cost effective modifications are rare. Just my 2 cents.
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before you ask a 'how do i...' question answer this for me. do you own a repair manual for it? have you searched the forum for a similar issue?
Ahem? It is a sub-compact corolla to get from A to B. I amnot doubting a little power, but the whole package from tires, brakes, cv joints, transmission, cooling, tuning etc etc need to be researched prior to any "upgrades" in power.
Word of advice. Start with the last denominator in the project and end up at the engine. That way everything is ready for the monstrous HP/TQ you are going to throw at it.
i was responding to your "cost effective mods are rare"
and yes. i whole heartedly agree with you, if you want to make a nastily nimble car you start from the suspension and tires and work your way from there.
and yes, i do plan on doing that.
i'm only adding the 20 or so HP stage 1 cams will net me next semester because of the whole "while i have the whole engine apart..." schpeel
for the forseeable future i don't plan on doing anymore engine-wise besides those cams, header, and a TRUE cat back exhaust ( i only have an axelback)
i don't want to start a flame war but most people go "oh the 1ZZ... nobody makes parts for that"
i thought that is what you were saying, if that is not what you meant then my apologies.
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before you ask a 'how do i...' question answer this for me. do you own a repair manual for it? have you searched the forum for a similar issue?
i was responding to your "cost effective mods are rare"
and yes. i whole heartedly agree with you, if you want to make a nastily nimble car you start from the suspension and tires and work your way from there.
and yes, i do plan on doing that.
i'm only adding the 20 or so HP stage 1 cams will net me next semester because of the whole "while i have the whole engine apart..." schpeel
for the forseeable future i don't plan on doing anymore engine-wise besides those cams, header, and a TRUE cat back exhaust ( i only have an axelback)
i don't want to start a flame war but most people go "oh the 1ZZ... nobody makes parts for that"
i thought that is what you were saying, if that is not what you meant then my apologies.
yes i am talking about a 1zzfe. 50k, no problems with the pulleys.
downhill, as for the 20 or so hp from the cams, its really more like 10 with tuning. so to get the full beinifit you will need some form of standalone ecu or piggyback such as the emanage or emanage ultimate. just wanted to make sure you know this, im pretty sure you did, but just throwing it out there for ya. also since i am kinda local to you, if you do ever need any tuning feel free to hit me up on here.
MWR also started selling pulley kits for the 2ZZ-GE, supposedly they will not cause any issues with bearings and whatnot.
Still not 100% convinced that pulleys are perfect safe - even though these engines are balanced internally, vibration has always been a sore point in any engine design.
Keep in mind, it is more than an elastomer ring that serves to help attenuate vibration - a heavier, properly sized pulley also has a moment of inertia associated with it. If you change the diameter or reduce the weight, it will change the moment of inertia.
Still, you can't ignore the physics here - less rotational mass means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to keep them spinning. By themselves, pulleys won't account for much. But if you couple them with weight reduction, reduction in unsprung mass, smaller clutch set (if manual transaxle), etc. - then you would have some tangible gains there. Just keep in mind the potential problems with pulleys and check on their condition often.
MWR also started selling pulley kits for the 2ZZ-GE, supposedly they will not cause any issues with bearings and whatnot.
Still not 100% convinced that pulleys are perfect safe - even though these engines are balanced internally, vibration has always been a sore point in any engine design.
Keep in mind, it is more than an elastomer ring that serves to help attenuate vibration - a heavier, properly sized pulley also has a moment of inertia associated with it. If you change the diameter or reduce the weight, it will change the moment of inertia.
Still, you can't ignore the physics here - less rotational mass means the engine doesn't have to work as hard to keep them spinning. By themselves, pulleys won't account for much. But if you couple them with weight reduction, reduction in unsprung mass, smaller clutch set (if manual transaxle), etc. - then you would have some tangible gains there. Just keep in mind the potential problems with pulleys and check on their condition often.
im actually thinking about dropping the money for a 2zzge water pump and mwr pulley for my car.
i have also noticed from most of the toyota forums that the bearing issues seems to be mostly 2zz's. as i said, i have had no problems with my underdrive crank pulley. it has been on the car for over a year. the biggest problem i see, with the 1zz/2zz family is toyotas choice of bearing material for the con rods and main bearings. there mostly aluminum. which in my mind means that toyota should have equip these cars with factory oil coolers. most aluminum engines seem to have higher oil temps, due to heat transfer into the oil from the block. how are you supposed to help cool superheated rod/main bearings with all ready hot oil? it dosent work. hence why my first actual mod to my car was a b&m oil cooler and filter relocation kit. which also increased my oil capacity to 7qts. i plan on revamping my setup when the built engine goes in. also my oil cooler is after the filters to prevent any dirt from getting into it.
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