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8th Generation (1998-2002) Specific discussion of the 8th generation

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Old 10-24-2009, 04:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Tricks For Removing Rusty Rear Axle Carrier Bolts?

Trying to do some Strut/Brake/Swaybar link work on the 99 Corolla with 150k on it. Spent most of its life in Southern Missouri, but in its two winters in NE Iowa, those long a$$ bolts don't wanna budge!! The equivalent bolts on our Subaru(lifetime Iowa car) took some pursuaion to get off,but they did respond to PB Blaster and wire brushing of exposed threads. The Subie also more or less fully encases the bolt shaft while the Corolla leaves lots of shaft exposed on the inside part of the carrier.

Other than extreme heat and more PB Blaster, is there any trick specific to these bolts that will get them out of their "roost"? Even if I get the suspension arms loose from the rear suspension carrier, I'm not sure chucking the whole mess in a bench vise is going to make it any easier. BTW, the PB Blaster is on its second week of soaking and still no budge and my shade tree impact wrench is making no progress even at its rated 225 ft./ lbs of torque. I promise that if they come out, they will get the total spa treatment with Anti seize compound.
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dimwittedmoose51 View Post
Trying to do some Strut/Brake/Swaybar link work on the 99 Corolla with 150k on it. Spent most of its life in Southern Missouri, but in its two winters in NE Iowa, those long a$$ bolts don't wanna budge!! The equivalent bolts on our Subaru(lifetime Iowa car) took some pursuaion to get off,but they did respond to PB Blaster and wire brushing of exposed threads. The Subie also more or less fully encases the bolt shaft while the Corolla leaves lots of shaft exposed on the inside part of the carrier.

Other than extreme heat and more PB Blaster, is there any trick specific to these bolts that will get them out of their "roost"? Even if I get the suspension arms loose from the rear suspension carrier, I'm not sure chucking the whole mess in a bench vise is going to make it any easier. BTW, the PB Blaster is on its second week of soaking and still no budge and my shade tree impact wrench is making no progress even at its rated 225 ft./ lbs of torque. I promise that if they come out, they will get the total spa treatment with Anti seize compound.
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for swaybar link , dont waste youre time, take a 'buffer'' and cut the bolt , thats it ... .

Me and my father dont really care about old pieces .

for 100 or 120$ you can get 4 link on ebay ( from 2 different compagny)
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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a bigger impact gun, 225 is pretty weak dude and it probably doesnt even make 225 unless he has a commercial grade compressor behind it. buying the impact gun and compressor needed to get those out will cost more then having a shop do the job, sorry to say.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WMN2GU/...SIN=B000WMN2GU

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mtmas3-ve75-80m.html
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Old 10-24-2009, 11:57 AM   #4 (permalink)
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a bigger impact gun, 225 is pretty weak dude and it probably doesnt even make 225 unless he has a commercial grade compressor behind it. buying the impact gun and compressor needed to get those out will cost more then having a shop do the job, sorry to say.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WMN2GU/ref=asc_df_B000WMN2GU943923?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag =googlecom09c9-20&linkCode=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B000W MN2GU

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mtmas3-ve75-80m.html
do you talk about sway bar link ?
if yes a buffer is much cheaper to solve the problem of rusty bolt
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Old 10-24-2009, 10:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you are talking about the sway bar brackets bolts for the front and rear, The haynes manual has them at 168 Ft/lbs. I used pb blaster, a 4 foot extension, and 2 burly men.
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Old 10-25-2009, 06:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The bolts I'm talking about are the 12mm bolts(19mm head and nut) that hold the bearing carrier to the front and rear suspension shafts on each side. The bolt must be 10" long or better and runs parallel to the wheels.

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