HELP: Radio/Clock/Dome light out but Cig Lighter still works?? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

MichiganBlue82 · 12-22-2009, 08:06 AM

Good morning everyone. I searched many sources online to try and figure this problem out but have yet to find a working fix. I thought I would try this forum as a last resort since it seems to have many answers so I will give it a shot.

I have a '99 Corolla CE. The radio, clock, and dome light do not work, but the cigarette lighter input does. I have checked the fuses labeled "dome" under the hood and "cig" behind the storage box to the left of the steering wheel. All fuses seem to be fine. Anyone have a fix to this problem? I would like to try and get them working as I have a looong holiday trip coming up for Christmas and a working radio would be wonderful.

Thank you for any information and help you may have! Happy holidays to you all!

CraigW · 12-22-2009, 10:25 AM

Sounds like a missing constant voltage source is missing, The dome, clock and radio all require constant voltage. the clock and radio use them to keep the time intact and the radio use it for station presets.

The lighter outlet is actually a switched source these days.

I took a look at some wiring info the "dome" fuse in the under hood box is common to all your missing items.

I would use a meter or test light to measure if voltage is present or not at that fuse (there are exposed metal testing points on top of the fuses for easy testing)

Possible the fuse is open and looks o.k.

MichiganBlue82 · 12-22-2009, 03:40 PM

I did check the "dome" fuse and it did not look blown. I also checked the "Cig" fuse and it looked OK as well. Those were the 2 spots that were suggested to check via the internet and other forums.

Where would I get that fuse testing tool? Could it be possible that a fuse is just bad and not blown?

Thanks for all the help.

CraigW · 12-22-2009, 06:50 PM

You can get a 12volt test light at the auto parts store for $2-$5, it has a very sharp point and an alligator clip that you would connect to a good ground. Look close at the fuses top and you will see 2 exposed areas of silver color metal, those are the testing points. If the fuse is o.k. you will have constant voltage at both points.

Knowing if you have voltage or not will help determine which direction to go.

CJCride · 12-22-2009, 07:42 PM

Quick check, switch the fuse in question with a similar value you are using. Some have spares under the fuse box lids.

MichiganBlue82 · 12-22-2009, 10:17 PM

I see. So should I be focusing more on the "Cig" fuse behind the storage box to the left of the steering wheel or the "dome" fuse under the hood?

Also, the D, R, N, etc lights by the automatic stick are not on as well which indicate what drive I am in. Not sure if that helps anything.

So I stick the "test light" into where the fuse would go after I remove it?

Sorry, I am new to this. You help is so very much appreciated. I appreciate your time.

Thanks.

CraigW · 12-23-2009, 07:38 AM

You should be working with the dome fuse, it is the fuse protecting items that need constant power.

Look closely at the exposed flat top surface of the fuse while it is still in place you will see the testing points, you can take the fuse out and probe the contacts of the box... but I would try to leave it in place if possible.

Yes, switching the fuse would be a quick and simple test, there should also be spare fuses located in the boxes as well (always use same current rating)

If your other illumination bulbs are working when you switch on the lights (switches, controls and cluster) then it is most likely a bulb that is out for the shifter illumination.

MichiganBlue82 · 12-23-2009, 08:42 AM

I did replace the dome fuse with a spare that was in the fuse box. However, I will test it to make sure it works and is getting power and get back to this forum ASAP with the results. I leave out of town Friday morning so hopefully I will have this solved with your generous help.

Thanks again!

MichiganBlue82 · 12-23-2009, 05:35 PM

So I tested the "dome" fuse with a test light, it lit up so I believe that means its getting power? Do I assume now that there is a loose wire behind the radio? I have a PDF file that shows me how. Any other helpful hints please?

Thanks again!

CraigW · 12-24-2009, 10:01 AM

If you have voltage on both sides of the dome fuse... Then yes, you have an open connection between the fuse and the constant power items. The open will be between the load side of the dome fuse & the point where the wires distribute to their individual locations.

I will work on putting together some info from the factory manual for you.

Info added: Wire color from dome fuse load side is BLU/YEL it exits the box at plug/pin I11 it then runs inside cabin to plug/pin A4 at the drivers side junction block. It is then split to plug/pin G3 that goes out to the interior light & E10 out to another junction box to be split to the audio section and other places.

The entire run for this constant power line remains BLU/YEL the entire way.

Testing for voltage inside at A4 will tell if the voltage is making it inside or not.

MichiganBlue82 · 12-24-2009, 07:25 PM

I didn't know if it was the radio or not so I bought a cheap mp3 players from walmart along with a wire harness. I connected all the colors and wrapped them and secured with electrical tape. Went to plug the harnesses in and still no power. The dome fuse looks good under the hood.

However, when I used a test light on the fuse box under the "storage box" below the steering wheel. A couple fuses lit up while others did not. Not sure whats this means. None of the fuses were blown though.

I just matched the colors of the new wire harness to the harnesses coming from the dash. I did not clip any wires coming from the dash and redo them (if that makes sense.) Just sort of matched the colors.

Any further comments? I am determined to get this!

THANKS!!!

NEW INFO:

I noticed from the PDF I got from these forums for wiring a new aftermarket stereo may differ from the original.

It says: "Note: using an optional snap on wire harness adapter will simplify the wiring. Most snap on
wire harness adapters have already converted and color coded the wires from the auto
makers in dash wire harness to match typical aftermarket radio wire colors."

I bought a wire harness specifically for Toyota 82-present. Does this mean if I matched the colors, they are the correct ones regardless of what the PDF says?

Thanks again.

all2baka · 12-24-2009, 08:15 PM

Redo the harness and follow the PDF or whatever came with the harness. Just because wire colors are the same doesn't mean they go to the correct pin.

MichiganBlue82 · 12-24-2009, 08:50 PM

The PDF instructions are seperate from the harness I purchased. I just matched up the colors with the new wire harness I purchased from walmart today, with the colors that match to the new harness which connects to the aftermarket stereo.

So you think I should go with what the PDF says for colors?

Thanks!!!!!!!

MichiganBlue82 · 12-24-2009, 08:52 PM

I just thought that purchasing a new wire harness for a Toyota from Walmart, just meant I match up the colors. Otherwise I don't get what the point of purchasing a "Toyota wire harness" from walmart vs a Nissan if you have to find a diagram and match different colors. I thought they changed the colors to coordinate so you just tie them up together. I am new. sorry.

Thanks!

CraigW · 12-25-2009, 05:05 PM

Some of the fuses have constant power and some only with the key on.

The purpose of the adaptors are to avoid cutting the factory plugs. Also the wiring connections can be made on a bench or table then plug into new head unit and factory connections, mount and go.

You should work one wire at a time connecting the adaptor harness to the new head units harness. Most of the colors between the 2 sets of wires should be very similar but may not match 100% some wires have printing on the wire to specify.

Since your constant voltage source is not present you will most likely be in the same boat after installation.