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8th Generation (1998-2002) Specific discussion of the 8th generation

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Old 01-13-2010, 08:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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195/50/r15

I have no clue what pressure should it be with this tire on my 01 le......

I was thinking like maybe 32 psi or so???? or the same pressure that i keep on my stock wheels which is 175-60-r14.

Thnxs
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you read the tire it should say the max psi on it, but i would try to keep all my tires around the same psi to get a better ride.
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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forgot to mention i usually keep my tires about 5-7 psi below the max
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I keep mine around 40ish. helps with the craptacular sidewall i have.

plus it helps your mpg a tad and handling a bit as well.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:41 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crowbar911 View Post
I keep mine around 40ish. helps with the craptacular sidewall i have.

plus it helps your mpg a tad and handling a bit as well.
wouldn't that be too much making the ride a bit bumby over bumbs??
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:43 PM   #6 (permalink)
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It's not that bad, I had mine around 39psi during the summer.

50-series tires should be around 35-37psi since they're somewhat low profile.
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Old 01-14-2010, 12:51 AM   #7 (permalink)
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ill chime in here, since i worked in a tire shop for a few years...

if your wanting comfort and decent mpg. the best compromise is 35. for traction, handling, comfort go with 25-30. for just all out mpg, 40 but dont go over 40. most tires have a burst pressure listed of 40-44 psi, now this does not mean that it will explode at that psi, but that it has a much higher chance of blowing out when/if you hit a pot hole, or bump/debris in the road. this is because the pressure inside wont adsorb as much of the impact as it would, and there for the rim and tire, more so the tire, take the brunt of the impact. this effect gets worst with lower profile tires. true low profile tires actually start at a 45 sidewall aspect ratio. 50 is not considered a low profile tire, but is of a lower profile than most tires on the market. also dont stretch a tire on to a wheel. stretched tires eliminate sidewall flex and can actually cause a unpredictable handling/grip characteristics. sidewalls are designed to flex to keep the tire patch on the ground to provide the largest tire patch at its given speed rating. i could keep rambling on but i shall stop here, i feel i rambled a bit too much.
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:33 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good info...i guess i'll keep it somewhere in the mid 30's.
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Keep em at 32 , Make sure you check and add air when tires has not been driven on , Tire pressure goes up 5 pounds when you drive on them so to check them after you rdrove is a waste , Dont check your tires if its cold outside they decrease in cold weather . If you go higher the pressure you will wear your tires out quick especailly in the middle . It will take away from your traction .
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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the max on my yokohamas are 51, the shop filled them to 35 which is where i kept them cuz i figured they knew what the were doing, but at autocross they say to go near or over the max psi so i just cranked it to 48
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Old 01-14-2010, 02:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Each tire brand/model will react differently to a set air pressure. There really isn't a single, ideal tire pressure for everyone, depending on the car, how it will be driven, and driving conditions - you will have to do some experimenting to find the right tire pressure.

Some tires also change their traction characteristics as you heat cycle them - some much more pronounced than others. Some new tires still have a good amount of release agent on them when you get them - will take a few hundred miles to wear them off - some need more driving than others to wear that stuff off. Some tires also will lose pressure more than others - so may need to monitor the tire pressures on a routine basis. A good practice regardless of what you are running.

Where to you start? Basically, if you stay between the air pressures listed on the door placard (30PSI OEM) and the max cold inflation stamped on the tire itself - you should be safe. The "correct" tire pressure for you is probably in between those two numbers. One way to approach this is run 35PSI (note: 35PSI is what all tires are inflated to when generating their specifications) - drive around normally to get a feel for the tire and wear off the release agent on the tire carcass as needed. Don't go crazy right away, "break-in" the tires easy at first.

The "right" way to do this is to warm the tire up normally and then push them a bit with some "spirited" driving. Use a tire pyrometer and measure the temperature of the tread from the inner most tread section, the middle of the tread, and the outer tread section. The optimum tire pressure is the one that yields the most even temperature across the face of the tread. This means the entire tread contact patch is making contact with the road, you are making the most of the tire. Easiest to do on a track and with the correct tools - without those, you can still get there with some trial and error.

Plump the tires with some air - if the max cold inflation is 44PSI - fill them up to 40PSI. If the max cold inflation is 50PSI - fill them up to 44 PSI or so. Some like to fill them up all the way to the max cold inflation - but I wouldn't do that unless you know how what you are doing. Drive for a bit, note how the car handles, rides, and fuel economy. Then bleed down the air 2PSI and repeat the test until you hit 30-32PSI. Bleeding the tire down is easier than airing them up - the tire will also pick up heat here and tire pressure may be elevated in that regard. No problem, just take the reading you get and bleed down in 2PSI increments. The pressure that gave you an acceptable ride quality, good fuel economy, and decent traction - that will be your optimum tire pressure for that tire.
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