Door lock problem 99 Corolla CE

[bodmec]

I have a 99 Toyota Corolla with a door lock problem.When you hit the door lock button all the actuators move a little bit,they neither lock or unlock but they do move minutely.I have replaced the master switch with a BRAND NEW one from toyota:NO CHANGE,same thing. I tested the power to the actuators,they are only getting 8 volts max,this is to all the actuators.I can put 12 volts to them with a seperate battery pac and they work. I also REPLACED the INTEGRATION RELAY WITH A BRAND NEW ONE FROM TOYOTA,same thing no change. I done a pretty extensive wiggle test with the wiring in the doors and jambs,no change.I checked the voltage staright out the integration relay,maxxed out at 8 volts just like at the actuators(this is when you hit the lock,unlock button).It has a 12volt constant power source to the relay. What else could be causing the integration relay to only put out 8 volts to the actuators? Am I right in saying that the actuators need a full 12 volts to operate? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks

[fishexpo101]

Yup, should be getting source voltage, otherwise - you'll get the behavior that you are seeing (door locks not quite locking/unlocking).

Sounds like there is a parasite drain somewhere from the integration relay back. Since you've bracketed the problem (master switch, to intergration relay) - you're probably looking for a shorted wire or tap somewhere close by.

I would start by disconnecting the door actuators, then connecting them one at a time, until the voltage drpos. Could be an internal short in one or all the solenoid(s). Check chassis ground points as well for ground loops, i.e., check between two ground points with multimeter set to DC mV scale, should not read any voltage - if you do, there is a ground loop somewhere.

[bodmec]

Upon further testing I realized my cheap multimeter wasnt reading the voltage fast enough.I went to each actuator with a fully charged batterpack(jump starter) and tested each actuator,none tested right,they moved the most when you first touch the power to them then eventually none,even when switching the polarity around the same thing. Is it possible to have 4 bad actuators? I guess if they slowly go out over time and not replaced its possible? The new actuators are $237 each new from the dealer.What other alternatives are there?



Has anyone ever used the aftermarket actuators on the cars that came with power door locks?

[mr1114]

I'm curious to find out what the problem is. The 98 CE that I owned briefly last year had a similar problem. After checking a few things, the technician I work with said he thought it was the integration relay. The problem never got resolved because I sold the car shortly after that.

[bodmec]

Originally Posted by mr1114

I'm curious to find out what the problem is. The 98 CE that I owned briefly last year had a similar problem. After checking a few things, the technician I work with said he thought it was the integration relay. The problem never got resolved because I sold the car shortly after that.

Ya this thing is drivin me crazy,any help would be appreciated.

[bodmec]

Originally Posted by bodmec

Ya this thing is drivin me crazy,any help would be appreciated.

NO ONE???

[bodmec]

Originally Posted by bodmec

NO ONE???

Surely I didnt stump everyone.

[Dexterous]

I have the same ongoing problem with my front passenger side.
I actually used a rotary tool and cut the actuator along the fused weld seems to open it and see inside it. This was a few years ago and from what I recall there's some plastic gear like pieces with grease, and it appeared there was some internal wear and slippage when the unit was activated.

It still works intermittently (after I tempered with it) and I recall what damaged it was someone holding the stem down when I unlocked a door with a button.

Salvage yard or Ebay are your other options; but get close-up photos from Ebay because they are not the same for all 08-02. I believe Toyo modified them between the 8th gen years.