well i was looking around for a solution to this problem. it seems like every damn toyota corolla has this issue!!!! i really would liek to hear your ideas and experience on this problem. i have a 1999 toyota corolla with a 1998 engine (idk why the dealer lied) anyway, some of there cars are covered by toyota in a warranty of up to 150,000 miles. read this: www.epa.gov/compliance/resources/cases/civil/caa/toyota.html
also:
epa toyota settlement corp 1800 331 4331 customer relations
found on vehicle emission control info found under hood and build date on edge door
1998 corolla engine fam name:
wtyxv01.8xba or wtyxv01.8dxb
1998 corolla evap control:
wtyxr0115ak1 or wtyxr0115ak1
1998 corolla build date:
02/12/98 or 02/12/98
i used a mac tool et197
check engine po446/441
po446 evap emission control system vent control circuit
po446 evap emission control system vent control circuit
P0441- Evaporative emissions system- Incorrect purge flow-
__________________
'99 Toyota Corolla non-vvt-i
The Following User Says Thank You to CorollaTRD99 For This Useful Post:
I just replaced the Evap VSV on my 98 Corolla and am waiting for the Evap circuit to complete (haven't been able to find any info on the drive cycles for these cars), then I came across this release too from the EPA. Hopefully some will be able to take advantage of it, but I've heard the dealers will still play dumb to try and avoid paying for the repair.
What happened with mine is that the bracket that holds the VSV onto the canister really rusted away, but it's also integrated into the body of the valve, so when it rusted, it expanded and cracked the valve, the 441 code soon followed. Am hoping that's all it is and the system will reset properly as an $85 VSV sure beats a $250 cannister.
Last edited by EdW; 04-21-2010 at 10:27 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to EdW For This Useful Post:
Lot of 8th gen Corollas have this issue. As EdW mentioend, some find it to be the VSV on the canister itself. Others, it will be related to cracked or damaged vacuum hoses, clogged EVAP vent, faulty cut-off valve on the tank, and more. Best option is to have the EVAP system "smoke" tested. As there likely could be more than one thing wrong here.
On a few cases, it is the ECM crying "wolf" - sometimes simply resetting the ECM will "fix" the CEL for some time. Most shops will blame the vapor canister - but in 90% of the cases, the vapor canister (charcoal canister) is perfectly fine.
If you have a tendancy to top-off the gas tank, now would be a good time to stop. Topping off the gas tank also increases the likelyhood of causing these EVAP codes. Worse case would be gasoline saturating the vapor canister, which will destroy it.
As for engine manufacturing date - you can have a 1998 engine in a 1999 model year car - something that can happen in any manufacturing line. My own 2002 has an engine date code in 2001. Usually they allow a 6 month or less slop in the codes - depends on the demand for a particular model line.
Very interesting point about resetting the ECM and turning the CEL off as that's exactly what happened to me (before I replaced the VSV). The problem I had (have) is that the light stays off but the Evap circuit always shows an Incomplete and never Completes its readiness cycle, which is a problem as it shows up on yearly testing. I found it odd that whatever is the issue keeps the car in kind of the "limbo" state.
Also, don't have access to smoke testing, which would be best, so I used light pressure and a gauge to test the integrity of the lines, cannister, etc. All seems OK. Got about 20 miles on the car since installing the new VSV, but the Evap readiness is still incomplete. I've read 100 miles may be necessary.
I should also note that another symptom of the cracked valve/leaking evap circuit seemed to be increased idle RPM. The VSV behind the airbox tests fine, so I'm assuming excess air was entering the intake through the Evap leak in the valve body somehow and causing the elevated idle?
As a quick update, swapping out the VSV by the canister finally did the trick and allowed the Evap readiness diagnostics to eventually complete. BUT it took quite a while, including 2 highway trips of about 150 miles each, and then some more local driving after that. In fact, I'd pretty much given up and was getting ready to buy a new canister assembly, but checked one more time with the scan tool and was quite surprised to see the "C" had finally set for the Evap readiness. Hope that helps someone else who's "waiting" for the circuit to complete - It seems to take quite a while!
I had those codes ever since I got my car with 198,xxx miles on it, as of now I have 205,xxx
also mine was made 6/98 also among those codes I also received the cat. converter underflow code it is possible that the EVAP system is messing up the reading of the o2 sensor?
I did a research, found that those canisters are really pricey
Also i noticed that when I got the car the previous owner put a hole on the gas tank cap is this supposed to help somehow? I have already replaced the cap just because I didn't like the idea of it!
Bohem, The best thing for you to do is slide under the back of the car and take a look at the evap canister, the tubing/hoses, and the switching valves. You may just have an issue with a cracked valve or bad hose and avoid having to get a new canister. Dealer cost for the whole set up is around $240 if memory serves, but individual valves are around $90.
As a test, the ECM tells the evap the system to hold pressure for a bit, and with the hole in the gas cap, that would be impossible and set a code itself. So swapping that was a good start.
Bohem, The best thing for you to do is slide under the back of the car and take a look at the evap canister, the tubing/hoses, and the switching valves. You may just have an issue with a cracked valve or bad hose and avoid having to get a new canister. Dealer cost for the whole set up is around $240 if memory serves, but individual valves are around $90.
As a test, the ECM tells the evap the system to hold pressure for a bit, and with the hole in the gas cap, that would be impossible and set a code itself. So swapping that was a good start.
last summer i did that, someone here from the forum told me that If i cannot fill up my gas tank all the way up it was possible that the short hose comming out from the canister is full with dirt, the short hose coming out of the canister is about 10 inches ling and it just points down going into the frame, but it was fine. i guess i have to get back in there and see what is happening. I have noticed that if i want to take the entire canister I will have to remove the muffler in order to take it out. So my understanding is that toyota will wouldn't fix mine b/c of the year/millage? Has anyone had theirs replace by toyota?
Not sure how close to full you can get, but that may work in your favor as overfilling can actually "backfill" the cannister with liquid fuel and do it in.
I think you need to go back under and inspect the individual lines to each valve and sensor as well as test both VSV's to see if they're working electrically/mechanically. You should be able to do that without removing the cannister, muffler, etc. Wear goggles though as a lot of crap will fall if you're directly under it. Location of these things, in relation to road salt, water exposure, etc, seems to be a factor in all these problems we've been having. Give this a read for the procedures:
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it is possible that the EVAP system is messing up the reading of the o2 sensor?
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