i have a 1998 corolla with 209K on the ODO. recently been having rough idle and vibration issues, so i've replaced the 4 mounts (2 engine and 2 transmission), and am now having an issue with the side transmission mount (on driver's side, directly under the air filter housing ).
no matter how i jack-up and try to shift the engine position ( with all mount thru bolts loose), when i torque down the bolts and remove the jacks, the engine returns to a position in which the yoke bracket on the transmission is touching the metal portion of the transmission mount. the engine/transmission appear to be shifted back, such that the mount isn't centered with the transmission yoke bracket. this positioning/interference is causing a chattering noise and vibration (not as bad as before), as well as a clunk at start.
anybody have any advice on getting the proper engine alignment after replacing motor and transmission mounts? maybe something i'm not disconnecting or a technique i haven't tried? any advice is greatly appreciated.
i have a 1998 corolla with 209K on the ODO. recently been having rough idle and vibration issues, so i've replaced the 4 mounts (2 engine and 2 transmission), and am now having an issue with the side transmission mount (on driver's side, directly under the air filter housing ).
no matter how i jack-up and try to shift the engine position ( with all mount thru bolts loose), when i torque down the bolts and remove the jacks, the engine returns to a position in which the yoke bracket on the transmission is touching the metal portion of the transmission mount. the engine/transmission appear to be shifted back, such that the mount isn't centered with the transmission yoke bracket. this positioning/interference is causing a chattering noise and vibration (not as bad as before), as well as a clunk at start.
anybody have any advice on getting the proper engine alignment after replacing motor and transmission mounts? maybe something i'm not disconnecting or a technique i haven't tried? any advice is greatly appreciated.
edit: anchor mounts were used.
I am having the same problem as well I used anchor mounts too... did you solve this problem? I only notice the extremely rough idle and the mount is sitting in a position where the through bolt is touching the upper portion of the rubber bushing too
I am having the same problem as well I used anchor mounts too... did you solve this problem? I only notice the extremely rough idle and the mount is sitting in a position where the through bolt is touching the upper portion of the rubber bushing too
i did in fact. the anchor mount i initially used was for the 3-speed transmission, not the 4-speed that my LE has. replaced the drivers side mount with toyota part, and it's much better. still have a little bit of a rough idle, but definitely better and not bad for a car with +200K miles....
i did in fact. the anchor mount i initially used was for the 3-speed transmission, not the 4-speed that my LE has. replaced the drivers side mount with toyota part, and it's much better. still have a little bit of a rough idle, but definitely better and not bad for a car with +200K miles....
If you don't mind me asking how much did you spend on the dealer mount? and by any chance did you compare the mount you used and toyotas?
Because I noticed when I compared mine they were identical in structure but side by side the anchor mount wasn't set as far forward as the stock one... I was just so stubborn and just tried to fit it cuz I was too lazy to return it haha.
just for a followup on my repair DO NOT buy the anchor mount just shell out the 100 bucks for the dealer transmission mount. The anchor mount was the source of my problem all the stores in my area claimed that 8873 anchor mount was for my corolla 4spd but it did not fit. The original mount is set more forward than the anchor mount making it just drop into the holes.
I had the same problem with the Anchor 8873. The bolt holes are about a quarter inch offset forward than the stock mount.
Do either of you have advice on replacing the rear mount? Mine looks pretty trashed, and I'd love to be able to replace it without dropping the cross members. I'm wondering if it's possible to unbolt the other 3 mounts and then jack up the engine instead to give clearance.
I had the same problem with the Anchor 8873. The bolt holes are about a quarter inch offset forward than the stock mount.
Do either of you have advice on replacing the rear mount? Mine looks pretty trashed, and I'd love to be able to replace it without dropping the cross members. I'm wondering if it's possible to unbolt the other 3 mounts and then jack up the engine instead to give clearance.
I have replaced 3 of the rear mounts and have always had to remove or loosen the crossmember.( if someone has a better way please tell me)
The last time I had the engine out, and the other trans mounts loose, and it still it would not come out until I dropped the crossmember.
The power steering assembly is in the way. The rubber bumber on the top of the rear mount hits on the power steering assembly when you try to lift it out.
It is not really hard to remove the crossmember, but you need to support the car properly.I would not even try it without at least a 2 ton floor jack and jack stands. You will also need a torque wrench that goes to at least 200 lbs to retorque the bolts.
I have replaced 3 of the rear mounts and have always had to remove or loosen the crossmember.( if someone has a better way please tell me)
The last time I had the engine out, and the other trans mounts loose, and it still it would not come out until I dropped the crossmember.
The power steering assembly is in the way. The rubber bumber on the top of the rear mount hits on the power steering assembly when you try to lift it out.
It is not really hard to remove the crossmember, but you need to support the car properly.I would not even try it without at least a 2 ton floor jack and jack stands. You will also need a torque wrench that goes to at least 200 lbs to retorque the bolts.
I couldnt have sai d it better there is just not enough clearance to not remove the crossmember i was fotunate enough to be replacing all 4 mounts both control arms and sway bar components endlink bushings etc so i had to take down the crossmember
i had the exact same problem, with the exact same mount under the airbox. i even used the toyota part number off the old one to order the new one. eventually i just cut the metal away from around the isolator of the new mount and pressed the rest of the old isolator out of the old mount and combined the food isolator with the origional mount and it worked.
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