ok, so from the numerous threads about spark plugs on this forum, i've gone thru the 6 pages of results when searching "spark plugs"
this is what i have gathered from reading thos threads:
93-97 have caps and distributors
98-99 have ignition coil and spark plug wires
00-02 have direct ignition coil and no wires?
i myself have a 98 corolla.
i would like to change out the spark plugs, i saw the page in my owners manual which talks about spark plugs and if i recall correctly, it lists 2 plugs that i can buy (just like how it lists 2 tire sizes u can use, 175/65/14 or 185/65/14) either NGK or denso, please correct if i'm wrong
so i called the dealer and they said 5 bucks a plug, not bad, i'm not going to search around to save a few bucks on plugs, they are cheap enough.
my next question is, should i change the spark plug wires as well? they quoted $125 CDN for the wires. thats quite alot. ppl also said that the wires break when u change your plugs often and keep having to remove them. should i change the wires as well while i'm at it? (this idea is similar to changing the serpentine belt at the same time as the belt tensioner since it's already off)
what do you guys think? i'm at 160,000 km which is ~99500 miles.
any tips or tricks or necessary things i should do for this job? i.e. wait for engine to cool down first before trying to remove plugs, anti-seize the threads?
You have four wires going from the driver's side of the engine to the top of the valve cover. This style of plug wire doesn't pull apart as bad as some so you'd probably be ok reusing them. Check the ends for corrosion though...if corroded replace them. When you put the wires back on put a light coat of dielectric grease around the ends of the rubber where it touches the ceramic on the plugs and on the ignition side. Generally the factory plug wires are MUCH better quality than most of what you'll find in the auto parts store. I either run factory wires or by high performance racing wires for the better quality. If the wires aren't corroded, insulation torn or broken, etc you can test them with an ohm meter. All wires should have about the same resistance. There are probably specs in a factory shop manual but I usually just compare the resistance to new ones.
As for changing the plugs, the factory recommends the twin ground plugs and the brands you mention are the ones commonly used. Take them out when the engine is cool, anti-seize the threads, and reinstall. Don't mess with the gap on the twin ground plugs...they should be set from the factory.
You have four wires going from the driver's side of the engine to the top of the valve cover. This style of plug wire doesn't pull apart as bad as some so you'd probably be ok reusing them. Check the ends for corrosion though...if corroded replace them. When you put the wires back on put a light coat of dielectric grease around the ends of the rubber where it touches the ceramic on the plugs and on the ignition side. Generally the factory plug wires are MUCH better quality than most of what you'll find in the auto parts store. I either run factory wires or by high performance racing wires for the better quality. If the wires aren't corroded, insulation torn or broken, etc you can test them with an ohm meter. All wires should have about the same resistance. There are probably specs in a factory shop manual but I usually just compare the resistance to new ones.
As for changing the plugs, the factory recommends the twin ground plugs and the brands you mention are the ones commonly used. Take them out when the engine is cool, anti-seize the threads, and reinstall. Don't mess with the gap on the twin ground plugs...they should be set from the factory.
wow there are a lot of good teachers in this forums! thank you! please what is an ohm meter? is it the same as the multimeter? please teach me how to test it, because i really don't know how! thanks!
wow there are a lot of good teachers in this forums! thank you! please what is an ohm meter? is it the same as the multimeter? please teach me how to test it, because i really don't know how! thanks!
take your multimeter and set it to measure resistance. pull a plug wire off, put the terminals on each end, and compare the reading to the other wires.
fyi, ~130k miles on mine and still on stock plug wires.
The Following User Says Thank You to phantazn For This Useful Post:
wow there are a lot of good teachers in this forums! thank you! please what is an ohm meter? is it the same as the multimeter? please teach me how to test it, because i really don't know how! thanks!
A multimeter usually includes a volt meter and an ohm meter. The ohm sign looks like a horseshoe with little feet on the end. Select ohms on your meter and connect one test lead to each end of the plug wire and the meter will measure the resistance (ohm) from one end of the wire to the other.
The Following User Says Thank You to PushnFords For This Useful Post:
take your multimeter and set it to measure resistance. pull a plug wire off, put the terminals on each end, and compare the reading to the other wires.
fyi, ~130k miles on mine and still on stock plug wires.
A multimeter usually includes a volt meter and an ohm meter. The ohm sign looks like a horseshoe with little feet on the end. Select ohms on your meter and connect one test lead to each end of the plug wire and the meter will measure the resistance (ohm) from one end of the wire to the other.
thank you pushnfords for the education! thanks also for the detailed instruction too! i think i understand your explanations, but i will try to take a picture of it, and if i do it wrong, please correct me after. thanks! i bought a year ago a multimeter (10$), but don't know how, or very little, to use it yet!
you have to make sure the probes are in the corroct holes and it sounds like you need to move the ohms setting up to the next level. most likely if you google your multimeter you will find an owners manual on how to use it.
with 100k miles and a 12 year old car if you think the wires are original replace them no matter what testing shows, hey if they are 6 years old replace them
__________________
2006 Vibe, White, 1zzfe, auto ( Toyota type IV), AWD, PW, PL, CC, AC, 161,000(5/12/2012)
1998 Camry LE, 4 door, Puke Green, I4(5S-FE), CA Emissions, Auto(A140E), 122k(3/22/2012), AC,CC, ABS, Built in Japan 04/98. Grandmas old car(acquired 7/22/2011), work= precat Denso A/F sensor, NGK wires.
The Following User Says Thank You to Woodyg For This Useful Post:
You have four wires going from the driver's side of the engine to the top of the valve cover. This style of plug wire doesn't pull apart as bad as some so you'd probably be ok reusing them. Check the ends for corrosion though...if corroded replace them. When you put the wires back on put a light coat of dielectric grease around the ends of the rubber where it touches the ceramic on the plugs and on the ignition side. Generally the factory plug wires are MUCH better quality than most of what you'll find in the auto parts store. I either run factory wires or by high performance racing wires for the better quality. If the wires aren't corroded, insulation torn or broken, etc you can test them with an ohm meter. All wires should have about the same resistance. There are probably specs in a factory shop manual but I usually just compare the resistance to new ones.
As for changing the plugs, the factory recommends the twin ground plugs and the brands you mention are the ones commonly used. Take them out when the engine is cool, anti-seize the threads, and reinstall. Don't mess with the gap on the twin ground plugs...they should be set from the factory.
you mean when buying new spark plugs, just take them out of the plastic box, and then insert them into the engine, right? so please what is the use of the spark plug gauge then? i bought one last saturday, so now i must return it, right? thanks
^^^ Most newer plugs, especially ones with harder materials (Iridium plugs) and multi-prong plugs do not need to be gapped before installation. Usually, they are pre-gapped at the manufacturer - they generally slide a plastic or cardboard tube over the electrodes to protect them during shipment.
Not a bad idea to verify the gap on a plug before you install it - but with multi-pronged plugs, measuring the gap could be quite difficult. Depends on which plug gauge you have. If it is one of those "coin" type gauges - then take it back, that is near useless for most applications. If it is one of the more expensive wire loop types - might be worthwhile to hold onto - up to you on that matter.
^^^ Most newer plugs, especially ones with harder materials (Iridium plugs) and multi-prong plugs do not need to be gapped before installation. Usually, they are pre-gapped at the manufacturer - they generally slide a plastic or cardboard tube over the electrodes to protect them during shipment.
Not a bad idea to verify the gap on a plug before you install it - but with multi-pronged plugs, measuring the gap could be quite difficult. Depends on which plug gauge you have. If it is one of those "coin" type gauges - then take it back, that is near useless for most applications. If it is one of the more expensive wire loop types - might be worthwhile to hold onto - up to you on that matter.
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/361/imgp0397z.jpg
i bought the... coin! but the seller adviced me the mini-blade, he said "the best".. if i understand correctly, you mean... i don't need spark plugs gauges, right, because the spark plugs are all pre-gapped by the manufacturer?
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very important:
i am always touched by your quick help/advices/teaching , of all of you guys here! i created an account here last september, but too lazy to come here, until i had problem with my spark plugs wires! many many thanks to you all!
so i'm learning a lot by reading the various posts about spark plugs. many of the posts are from experience and preference. so i just want to see if i would be able to use these spark plugs in a 99 corolla.
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