I've got a '99 CE with a loose/busted CV boot (driver-side). I know I need to get the CV axle (aka half shaft aka axle shaft, if I understand the names available) replaced, and I think I can do it for $90 - the local shop wanted $280 which seems kind of rediculous for what's involved. I just want to go over the process with someone to make sure I understand what's going on before I spend money and/or screw something up.
I know it uses the older body style, etc on that post but I'm hoping they aren't terribly different. I am buying the half shaft and a breaker bar (I'm renting a socket set and front fork set from them free) from the local auto part shop. I have a jack + stands. Total cost will be about $90+tax.
Any tips or advise would be appreciated. I can change my oil and top off power steering fluid but outside of that I don't have much experience working on cars, so even a basic tool recommendation could make or break my day.
Pretty much the same as the 7th gen - so those instructions should work out just fine. Though I don't believe that our 8th gens have a cotter pin, if I remember correctly, they are staked instead.
Need a torque wrench as well, to properly torque everything back togther. Should be able to rent that as well. Use PB Blaster or similar to help break up corrosion and make it a lot easier to remove those nuts. Hammer to drive out the old axle end will help too.
Should be a more recent DIY on an 8th gen axle swap somewhere on here, but I can't remember off the top of my head. $280 for a shop to do it as about ballpark - as you will see, it is basically all labor - not hard, just time consuming. Same thing with brake pad / rotor replacement - but all of these repairs are well within the reach of the dedicated DIYer.
The post is pretty close, as you know. On my 8th gen, I didn't have to touch the Tie Rod or Sway Link as they did. I removed the tire/rim, the caliper, the cotter pin, axle nut, ball joint, then I was able to freely get the axle out.
-My axle nut took a long extension and popped off (see pic)
-As poster said, a copper punch is nice to not damage axle thread
-You'll want to pack your bearings with grease
-I accidentally pulled out the transmission seal when I pulled out my axle and if you know me I drop everything, so I lost the spring that goes in the seal, it was a $10 part and leaked anyway so I replaced the seal while I was in there.
-Check to see if there is a torque spec on the axle nut, but I believe it just bottoms out when it's tight.
It's a pretty straight forward job, so enjoy it!
Last edited by randini667; 07-26-2010 at 09:36 AM.
Reason: changed ball bearing to ball joint
After a long night trying to get a grease gun under the boot to fill it, and put this project off for another 2-3 weeks, I broke down and called a cheap mobile mechanic to replace the half shaft.
The shaft fought these guys every step of the way, from the axle nut to the shaft getting stuck in the transmission to the shaft coming apart at the inner boot, leaving the rest sitting there. I guess the inner boot was even worse than the outer boot. They finally got it out and got the new shaft in and everything put back together. It was a 3-4 hour process, and they stuck with their quote of $75 plus cost of CV ($70 - I know, overpaid, but they had it in-stock). I am SO glad I hired out with how difficult this proved to be, although I know it was supposed to be a somewhat easier process.
The fun part, though, is that the noise that I was convinced was the outer boot -- so convinced that I didn't even ask for help with the diagnosis -- is still there, though it seems to sound-off less now. I feel good that the CV axle was bad and did need replaced, but I'm pretty nervous that this noise might be the transmission now.
Thanks for the support folks, and feel free to help in my new thread concerning the sounds coming from the car
The post is pretty close, as you know. On my 8th gen, I didn't have to touch the Tie Rod or Sway Link as they did. I removed the tire/rim, the caliper, the cotter pin, axle nut, ball joint, then I was able to freely get the axle out.
-My axle nut took a long extension and popped off (see pic)
-As poster said, a copper punch is nice to not damage axle thread
-You'll want to pack your bearings with grease
-I accidentally pulled out the transmission seal when I pulled out my axle and if you know me I drop everything, so I lost the spring that goes in the seal, it was a $10 part and leaked anyway so I replaced the seal while I was in there.
-Check to see if there is a torque spec on the axle nut, but I believe it just bottoms out when it's tight.
It's a pretty straight forward job, so enjoy it!
About that springs that goes in the seal I made a mistake and drove with the axle not seated in the transmission properly. After I pulled the axle off I found a thin spring hanging out of the hole where the axle goes in.(I don't remember seeing a rubber seal maybe it tore out?) I pulled the spring out. I bought a new axle seal. Is the spring inside the new axle seal? Is that spring to help with the structure of the rubber seal? I'm trying to figure out what I messed up so I can replace everything. Is there a breakdown of what all goes into the output shaft hole? I can't find any diagrams anywhere...
Last edited by KHSFilipino7290; 12-23-2011 at 03:14 AM.
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