Stering rack removal

[davemax]

New to this forum...
I'm in the process of removing my steering rack from my 2000 carolla. I have everything disconnected. But I can't seem to remove the rack from the engine bay. Not sure if it should be slid out thur wheel well opening on drivers side or passengers side. It looks like the knuckle pine is to big to pass Thur. Any help would be appreciated..
Thanks

[Buurin]

I'll assume you have hydraulic linkages and the tie rods disconnected. Then, according to the factory repair manual:

Support the engine from the top, then drop the subframe - 14 bolts, 3 nuts.
Then remove the heat shield, one bolt, one nut. 48 lb-in.
On each side, first remove a tube clamp bolt (48 lb-in), then remove one nut, one bolt (both 52 lb-ft), bracket and grommet.

Then comes the fun part. Once everything is off, slide the rack to passenger side, then to driver side and pull it out.

I haven't tried it myself, so all I can say is good luck.

[smstucson]

I'm starting this today also! Doesn't look very easy but I've done worse. I've had my two year old helping me and I look over and all of the lugnuts are missing from the magnetic dish. Maybe having him help isn't a good idea.

If anyone else has any tips or knows where to get a step by step online without actually buying the repair manual, I wouldn't mind seeing the pics and step by step.

Thanks for the info so far.

Jeff

[davemax]

Thanks Buurin for the info. I looked for a service manual online to help me with this process but haven’t found one yet but i wil keep looking. The info you provide is helpful..
Yesterday I tried again and yes the tie rod ends were disconnected from control arm. After removing the brackets that hold the rack on car (including rubber pieces) I was able to remove the rack thru the opening on the passenger side.. The key was to move the hoses out of the way and remove the heat shield from exhaust manifold (which I already had out since I put a new manifold in recently). Then the rack had to be pulled out up to the steering wheel knuckle pin. At this point I had to turn the rack in a up angle position so the bottom of the knuckle would come out first then the pin would come out next. It was not easy but worked. Same procedure for new one just opposite.
Before removal of rack...... On the driver’s side bracket that holds the rack to car there is a (17mm) bolt just above the engine mount. I loosed it as much as I could with a wrench then did the rest by hand (not easy) until off. Then I removed the top (17mm) nut off & removed the other passenger side bracket.
To install the brackets back connect the steering knuckle pin back to steering wheel first.. Place the (2) brackets and rubber fittings on rack, then thread bolts/nuts loosely (enough to hold in place only).. Thread the bolt over engine mount first by hand..Then proceed to others. You might have to wiggle the rack a little bit to get bolt going..Once the bolt over engine mount is in proceed with installtion
This might be the correct order or sequence to install the rack but this is what worked for be. Maybe if I knew that the sub frame needed to be dropped it might have been easier. Hope this helps “smstucson” and thanks again Burin..

[smstucson]

Well, I've got mine out and I thought I'd post a few comments for others attempting this feat. Here is essentially what I did.

- remove two heat shields above rack and pinion that are attached to the firewall.
- Unhook tie rods from spindles. No need to take them off as the rack and pinion will slide out with them still attached.
- Loosen the subframe. I tried to do the job without this but it isn't possible. GOOD NEWS IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO FULLY REMOVE IT THOUGH! Here is what I did: (1) Remove cross bar (straight tube looking thing). (2) Then remove sway bar. 4 bolts and two ball joints. Store out of the way. (3) Support the engine from top. NOTE: you don't need a cherry picker. You can put a 2x4 across the engine compartment so it rests on top of the two shock towers and then tie a strap to the engine hook up to the 2x4. (4) After engine is supported, Then loosen all bolts facing up in the subframe. Don't worry about the lower control arms. Leave them attached to the subframe. Loosen all bolts until there are just a few threads in each one. I believe there are 6 on each side and a few in the center. They are all 17mm, 19mm and I believe a couple 12mm that holds the brackets in place. Unbolt the lower motor mount from the subframe but leave it attached to the engine. (5) Then Pry the subframe down about 3/4 on an inch. This is all the space you need. Again, YOU DON'T NEED TO FULLY REMOVE THE SUBFRAME, just lower it a little bit.
- Remove cover above where the steering wheel linkage comes thru firewall and loosen the two bolts on the knuckle.
- Unhook the two hydraulic lines. I unhooked the low pressure at the hose clamp and the high pressure with a wrench. This way you'll remember which goes where.
- Unbolt the 4 bolts holding the rack and pinion. As mentioned earlier, the one by the engine mount is a pain in the butt! Remove it last and reinstall it first so you can maneuver the rack and pinion while loosening and tightening. A thin wrench may help.
- Finally, slide the whole rack and pinion out the passenger side hole.

This is difficult but can be done by a DIYer with a decent amount of experience. There is a video on youtube that helped me get an idea about what I was doing. It's worth watching.