I'm thinking about putting a turbo in my 98 corolla ce 5 speed. I will most likely need low compression pistons, new cams and all that but just seeing what you guys think. I love my corolla, I just want it faster and I think it would be a great sleeper if I could accomplish this. I'm also considering a swap but not sure yet. I took the car to a shop to get it looked at and see what their thoughts on it are. The 10:1 compression ratio might be too high to run a turbo stock with about 5-7lbs boost but if I could get away with it until I get time to rebuild the engine that would be great. I haven't ever seen a 8th gen corolla with a turbo that's kinda why I wanna do it. Here's some kits I was lookin at http://www.statracing.com/apps/toyot...turbo-kits.asp and another one here with full intercooler http://www.prostreetonline.com/x/tur...turbo-kits.asp
Oh and with this I will probably get full 2-3" custom exhaust too.
I'm also pretty set on putting B and G 1.6" lower struts and springs, any reviews or comments on suspension kits for this car?
I also need a new clutch and I have looked at many. I have looked at cheaper clutches and I've read good and bad reviews on the XTD, F1, eCM type ebay clutches out there. I've also looked at ACT, clutchmaster etc. stage 2's or something like that. There's also a brand called Ralco, Idk if anyones heard of it input would be great. But they have a stage 2 that looks good here http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/part...n_Kevlar/16857. It's a good price for sure.
I'm also looking at rims and tires. I'm probably going to try to find a used set, most likely black or grey/silver with tires. Any experience or suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanx.
Last edited by 98toyrolla; 08-19-2010 at 12:25 AM.
-Pirelli P4 tires
-Carbon Fiber tail light housing (rear end looks awesome with these)
-led license plate lights
-led dome light
-Hid kit
-tinted windows 5% back and 20% sides.
-aem short ram, got stock on right now.
-Strut stabilizer bar
-Pioneer full color DEH-p7800mp deck, clarion dpx1800 amp, orion hp 12", Fatmat in trunk, dls 6x9's in back and lookin to get components in front and looking to get another amp to power all 4 speakers.
-Starter just went out so I bought refurb. for $66 and put it in myself n it works great so far.
-N some other little cheap things like chrome gauge bezel outline.
-Also have a dual tip oval muffler on there that gives it some noise.
Will post pics too.
Last edited by 98toyrolla; 08-18-2010 at 11:48 PM.
nothing more needs to be said after that. if you want boost you gotta pay to play for all pieces that may break. i'd say stick with all motor. its way easier. and parts believe it or not are easy to source. ebay clutch
nothing more needs to be said after that. if you want boost you gotta pay to play for all pieces that may break. i'd say stick with all motor. its way easier. and parts believe it or not are easy to source. ebay clutch
Woah I guess you need to watch what you say around here to get good feedback huh? haha How many clutches have you tried and do you have any good feedback or detailed reveiws? I didn't say I was set on buying one of those I was asking for feedback or suggestions. It would be great if you said something constructive. Thanks.
I have replaced three corolla clutches (OEM Toyota )with brand name after market ones and have had nothing but trouble with them. Switched back to OEM toyota (on one so far ) and no problems at all.
I will never use after market clutch parts in my Toyotas again.
I am cheap too, and I will save a buck on after market parts that are good, but I havnt seen any after market parts that work as well as OEM.
I have replaced three corolla clutches (OEM Toyota )with brand name after market ones and have had nothing but trouble with them. Switched back to OEM toyota (on one so far ) and no problems at all.
I will never use after market clutch parts in my Toyotas again.
I am cheap too, and I will save a buck on after market parts that are good, but I havnt seen any after market parts that work as well as OEM.
Hey thanx for the feedback. Which clutches did you actually buy and what actually went wrong? I have heard good and bad aftermarket like ACT 2100 teeth fallin out to f1 racing having black oil on clutch. So i'd like to here what happened.
ive used many clutches in my lifetime. the brand i prefer the best is SPEC clutches. they have held more power than any other staged clutches from other brands. i have personally seen them hold MORE power and torque than they were rated for. act is another good brand clutch. as with exedy. but stay far away from ebay clutches, such as f1, xtd, and ecm. they are junk clutches. fidanza is good, as is ralco. both companies i have know of for a while.
now as for turbocharging. yes you can turbo a stock 1zz bottom end. the corolla has the stronger, and heavier forged rods. 10:1 is not unfriendly to boost. hell people turbo the 2zz and it is HIGHER compression.
if you want a cheap turbo corolla, without breaking the bank follow this simple recipe:
RockAuto.com Head Spacer : Part # HS948 $43.79
Garrett T3 super 60 turbo
T3 log manifold kit (jgsprecision)
ebay intercooler & piping kit of your choice. i would opt for a decently large core tho.
fuel injectors (mwr)
fuel pump (mwr)
piggyback or standalone of your choice.
clutch to hold 250-300 ftlbs.
tuning. for the love of god do not cheap out on this or you will end up with a giant paperweight for an engine.
the head spacer is a 1mm, dropping the cr to 9.0:1 which is even safer for boost. im sure i am forgetting a few things. all in all expect to spend about 2000 or so on a basic low boost setup.
The Following User Says Thank You to Milky For This Useful Post:
ive used many clutches in my lifetime. the brand i prefer the best is SPEC clutches. they have held more power than any other staged clutches from other brands. i have personally seen them hold MORE power and torque than they were rated for. act is another good brand clutch. as with exedy. but stay far away from ebay clutches, such as f1, xtd, and ecm. they are junk clutches. fidanza is good, as is ralco. both companies i have know of for a while.
now as for turbocharging. yes you can turbo a stock 1zz bottom end. the corolla has the stronger, and heavier forged rods. 10:1 is not unfriendly to boost. hell people turbo the 2zz and it is HIGHER compression.
if you want a cheap turbo corolla, without breaking the bank follow this simple recipe:
RockAuto.com Head Spacer : Part # HS948 $43.79
Garrett T3 super 60 turbo
T3 log manifold kit (jgsprecision)
ebay intercooler & piping kit of your choice. i would opt for a decently large core tho.
fuel injectors (mwr)
fuel pump (mwr)
piggyback or standalone of your choice.
clutch to hold 250-300 ftlbs.
tuning. for the love of god do not cheap out on this or you will end up with a giant paperweight for an engine.
the head spacer is a 1mm, dropping the cr to 9.0:1 which is even safer for boost. im sure i am forgetting a few things. all in all expect to spend about 2000 or so on a basic low boost setup.
Awesome that's not too spendy. So are the ebay intercoolers reliable at all? Also I will need blow off valve n oil lines to cool turbo. Have you used the Garret T3 super 60?
Last edited by 98toyrolla; 08-19-2010 at 11:21 AM.
Most shims are 0.020" thick - I'd assume this is the same way. Don't know for sure, as they don't specific on the site. Most shops that do any machine work, usually will skim that much material off at a time - that's why lots of shims start at that particular thickness.
Even so, won't change CR a whole lot - 0.02" is roughly 0.5mm. That will drop the compression from 10:1 to 9.6:1. Knowing the bore is 79mm, stroke 91.5mm, and assuming bore volume is roughly 49.8cc and change.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the shim, as Milky mentioned earlier, it is all in the tune. Quite a few 2ZZ-GE running boost on the 12.5:1 CR with no issues. Doesn't matter if you spend $2000 or $20,000 - if it not tuned correctly, you'll end up with a paperweight in the end.
Awesome that's not too spendy. So are the ebay intercoolers reliable at all? Also I will need blow off valve n oil lines to cool turbo. Have you used the Garret T3 super 60?
yes i have used a t3 super 60 on similar sized engines. it is a fairly quick spooling turbo, when tuned right, with boost usually coming on about 2800 and full boost by 3200. it can easily support low to mid 300's with a good tune. plus they are cheap, reliable turbos.
here is the compressor map for it:
as for the ebay intercoolers, they are decent as long as you stick with a bar and plate intercooler. the cheaper made tube and fin intercoolers seem to be much more of a restriction than they are worth. name brand really doesnt mean much when it comes to intercooling. all that matters is finding a simple balance of flow vs cooling. as the efficiency of the intercooler increases (temp drop) the flow would decrease. and like wise if the flow of the intercooler increased the efficiency would decrease. the key is to find a sweet spot where flow is at its greatest along with maximum cooling efficiency. end tank design is also somewhat important. while the tank design of most ebay intercoolers is sub par, they are usually paired with a decent core. but anyone with a tig can fix those end tanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fishexpo101
Most shims are 0.020" thick - I'd assume this is the same way. Don't know for sure, as they don't specific on the site. Most shops that do any machine work, usually will skim that much material off at a time - that's why lots of shims start at that particular thickness.
Even so, won't change CR a whole lot - 0.02" is roughly 0.5mm. That will drop the compression from 10:1 to 9.6:1. Knowing the bore is 79mm, stroke 91.5mm, and assuming bore volume is roughly 49.8cc and change.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the shim, as Milky mentioned earlier, it is all in the tune. Quite a few 2ZZ-GE running boost on the 12.5:1 CR with no issues. Doesn't matter if you spend $2000 or $20,000 - if it not tuned correctly, you'll end up with a paperweight in the end.
yup. tuning is key. i have had friends turbo both stock and built engines. infact ill tell a little story.
Dave is one of my friends with a low budget built altima. it is pretty damn quick. it is a simple build really.the engine is a ka24de, with cp 9:1 pistons (+.20mm), cometic headgasket, arp head studs, and stock cryotreated rods. he is using a t3t4 50 trim with .63 a/r housing. on 10psi he has made 320ish whp. he is on 15 right now. he daily drives the car. puts about 10-15k on it a year. it has been turbo'd for 4 years now without really any issue (other than shattering 3rd gear 3 times LOL). it has been reliable, and tuned by me, using a chipped/daugherboard setup on a stock ecu. even has 2 step.
Stein is another one of my friends, he built an all out turbo 626 about 5 years ago. and i mean full built. paulter rods, cp pistons, arp head studs, the works really. he built a Megasquirt standalone. it was a good build. but didnt last long. he barely made it to 4k miles on a full built engine before MELTING a forged piston. why? he never had it tuned. he tryed to self tune it. the few times i got a chance to look at his maps, they were horrid. his fueling was overkill, with so little timing, it was firing right before the exhaust valve opened. past the point of where it should have been firing.
he replaced the melted pistons thinking it was a fluke and reassembled the engine. about 6k later it laid down. this time from spun rod bearings. all the excess fuel was washing down his cylinder walls. he then gave up and parted it out.
i know that prolly seems like a ramble, but i find it is a great reason to not skimp on the tuning. because in the end, it doesnt matter if you spent 100k on a full titanum block and shit. it will blow up if you dont get it tuned right. not saying you have to spend 2k to have it tuned right either. there are people who do tuning for dirt cheap. i am one. and of the cars i have tuned completely, none have laid down due to anything tune related.
Most shims are 0.020" thick - I'd assume this is the same way. Don't know for sure, as they don't specific on the site. Most shops that do any machine work, usually will skim that much material off at a time - that's why lots of shims start at that particular thickness.
Even so, won't change CR a whole lot - 0.02" is roughly 0.5mm. That will drop the compression from 10:1 to 9.6:1. Knowing the bore is 79mm, stroke 91.5mm, and assuming bore volume is roughly 49.8cc and change.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the shim, as Milky mentioned earlier, it is all in the tune. Quite a few 2ZZ-GE running boost on the 12.5:1 CR with no issues. Doesn't matter if you spend $2000 or $20,000 - if it not tuned correctly, you'll end up with a paperweight in the end.
Alright thanx. I'm definately gonna have it tuned. The shop I'm thinkin bout takin it to called unique edge says they do some pretty good tuning. They don't have a dyno but they do alot of jobs like this. I guess the best bet would be to eventually get it to a dyno after getting it the basic tune. I might start out stock and build up the engine as I go. I got the suspension comin in the mail n now I got the clutch, wheels n turbo to go.
yes i have used a t3 super 60 on similar sized engines. it is a fairly quick spooling turbo, when tuned right, with boost usually coming on about 2800 and full boost by 3200. it can easily support low to mid 300's with a good tune. plus they are cheap, reliable turbos.
here is the compressor map for it:
as for the ebay intercoolers, they are decent as long as you stick with a bar and plate intercooler. the cheaper made tube and fin intercoolers seem to be much more of a restriction than they are worth. name brand really doesnt mean much when it comes to intercooling. all that matters is finding a simple balance of flow vs cooling. as the efficiency of the intercooler increases (temp drop) the flow would decrease. and like wise if the flow of the intercooler increased the efficiency would decrease. the key is to find a sweet spot where flow is at its greatest along with maximum cooling efficiency. end tank design is also somewhat important. while the tank design of most ebay intercoolers is sub par, they are usually paired with a decent core. but anyone with a tig can fix those end tanks.
yup. tuning is key. i have had friends turbo both stock and built engines. infact ill tell a little story.
Dave is one of my friends with a low budget built altima. it is pretty damn quick. it is a simple build really.the engine is a ka24de, with cp 9:1 pistons (+.20mm), cometic headgasket, arp head studs, and stock cryotreated rods. he is using a t3t4 50 trim with .63 a/r housing. on 10psi he has made 320ish whp. he is on 15 right now. he daily drives the car. puts about 10-15k on it a year. it has been turbo'd for 4 years now without really any issue (other than shattering 3rd gear 3 times LOL). it has been reliable, and tuned by me, using a chipped/daugherboard setup on a stock ecu. even has 2 step. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzKJL...feature=search http://www.youtube.com/user/blackwdl.../1/tMzPTEKCsbk
Stein is another one of my friends, he built an all out turbo 626 about 5 years ago. and i mean full built. paulter rods, cp pistons, arp head studs, the works really. he built a Megasquirt standalone. it was a good build. but didnt last long. he barely made it to 4k miles on a full built engine before MELTING a forged piston. why? he never had it tuned. he tryed to self tune it. the few times i got a chance to look at his maps, they were horrid. his fueling was overkill, with so little timing, it was firing right before the exhaust valve opened. past the point of where it should have been firing.
he replaced the melted pistons thinking it was a fluke and reassembled the engine. about 6k later it laid down. this time from spun rod bearings. all the excess fuel was washing down his cylinder walls. he then gave up and parted it out.
i know that prolly seems like a ramble, but i find it is a great reason to not skimp on the tuning. because in the end, it doesnt matter if you spent 100k on a full titanum block and shit. it will blow up if you dont get it tuned right. not saying you have to spend 2k to have it tuned right either. there are people who do tuning for dirt cheap. i am one. and of the cars i have tuned completely, none have laid down due to anything tune related.
Kool kool. I looked around and I did hear it was a quick spooling turbo using low boost but it also works for higher hp set ups which is great because you can build up on it, good stuff. I know a few people with a tig welder so they could maybe help me out with that deal. It seems like most of the ebay intercoolers are the cheap one ur talkin about. If you could send me a link of a good one from ebay that would be great because it doesnt seem like they make a kit specifically for my year corolla.
The biggest problem right now is having time to have my car sit in the shop for 3 weeks to a month because I work evryday right now and I'm goin to school soon. I could rent a car or buy a beater idk what do you do when ur messin with yur car?
And yur buddies altima seems pretty sick wow. He must have it at the strip evry once in a while with that 2 step huh? Is that how he shattered 3rd so much or was it daily screwin around in it? Seems like he rebuilt it a bit, how much did the rebuild cost him?
And as for tuning I'm havin unique edge do it after they put the turbo in. I would like to see some other cars they have turboed, I saw an eclipse they had in there completely redoing cuz dude blew the engine. They are pretty spendy probly cuz they are the only or one of the few around here that does this type of stuff. They wanted charge me $400 to put in suspension if I bought it from them or $500 if I brought parts in, crazy. But they do audio, performance, any mechanic work, basically anything besides painting. Maybe I should look at other shops to see what they have to offer. I'll see what they got for me pretty soon, they said they were guna have some quotes for me today or tomorrow.
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