I was thinking of changing the front brake pads, and also i have a question regarding my parking brake. It seems kind of loose? I have to pull the lever all the way up to have the car not slide down on a hill. Is there anyway to make it grab tighter and sooner? Like my friends handbrake grabs tight halfway while mine i have to pull the full way? Will replacing the brake shoes help at all? (my thoughts are it shouldnt because the self adjuster adjusts it anyways.)
Just wondering what i should be worried about and any little things i need to do regarding changing the pads?
I've never done a brake pad replacement before. As far as i know, its pretty much just removing the caliper, placing the new pads and pushing the piston back down on the caliper and then putting it back on?
My friend told me something about lubricating the slider? Wheres the slider and what should i lube it with?
The slider is basically just the portion of the caliper that allows for movement (in and out) as the pads wear. A little grease on them is a good thing. A lot of grease on them is a bad thing. Think small.
The slider is basically just the portion of the caliper that allows for movement (in and out) as the pads wear. A little grease on them is a good thing. A lot of grease on them is a bad thing. Think small.
That looks kinda-like WD-40. You need a lubricant that withstands high temperatures. Just look for one that says Brake Lubricant or Brake Grease on the label, and there are both silicone and non-silicone formulations.
That looks kinda-like WD-40. You need a lubricant that withstands high temperatures. Just look for one that says Brake Lubricant or Brake Grease on the label, and there are both silicone and non-silicone formulations.
Look for something that is not a spray can, but a solid grease in either a tube or a plastic jar, and says:
- won't dissolve rubber
- high temperature (500 Fahrenheit or more)
Look for something that is not a spray can, but a solid grease in either a tube or a plastic jar, and says:
- won't dissolve rubber
- high temperature (500 Fahrenheit or more)
Why is it always so much harder to find items in Canada... both of those items are not listed on amazon.ca
I went to my local parts store and found some permatex brake lubricant. It says its synthetic and its good for all the parts of the brake assemply, including the brake pads, which saves me some extra money from getting seperate anti seize for the brake pads. I also bought some clear tubing to bleed the brakes.
When i went to go change my pads today... I noticed that there were still half the pad remaining...so i didnt bother changing them yet.. (my dad told me that the brakes must be worn out cause the stopping power on the car is weak)
I'm not sure if my braking is weak or if thats just how the breaks are in the car... It does seem kind of weak, like the first inch that i push down on the peddle does not slow down the car much... (should i be worried about this and what can i do about it?)
If the pedal seems soft when you press it down, that either means a leak in the brake lines (unlikely but possible), bad master cylinder (unlikely), or more likely air trapped in the system. Yes, I'd bleed the brakes out to see if you can get any air out. The goal is a stiff brake pedal.
If the pedal seems soft when you press it down, that either means a leak in the brake lines (unlikely but possible), bad master cylinder (unlikely), or more likely air trapped in the system. Yes, I'd bleed the brakes out to see if you can get any air out. The goal is a stiff brake pedal.
The pedal does get stiff when its half way depressed, will this rule out the bad master cylinder and leak in the brake lines? I dont think theres a leak in the lines cause i've never had to top off my brake fluid.
One thing to note is that i tried replacing the rear shoes before (not exactly replacing, but swaping the ones facing rear with the ones facing front, the one facing rear has more material left cause the car is usually going forward when braking) I did a dumb mistake by pumping the brakes without putting the drum back on... so the piston went out too far and brake fluid was leaking through that. I pushed the piston back in and bleed the brakes on that wheel and it seemed to not have any leaks whatsoever.
Plus the car had always had the soft brake pedal problem. (Might have gotten a bit worst after doing the rear, or it could just me my mind playing tricks on me)
Im thinking of changing the brakes anyways, since i should be doing a complete bleed of the system. The pads arent that expensive anyways, so i dont mind replacing them earlier?
Does this sound like a good idea? Should i do the bleed first or change the pads and than bleed?
Also i forgot to mention... that once in a while the brakes are stiff starting from the top... not sure why... but its only maybe once a week where they are stiff at the top and seem to stop alot better.
so the piston went out too far and brake fluid was leaking through that
I hope you mean it leaked out of the bleeder screw. Brake fluid shouldn't leak out of the piston.
Quote:
One thing to note is that i tried replacing the rear shoes before (not exactly replacing, but swaping the ones facing rear with the ones facing front, the one facing rear has more material left cause the car is usually going forward when braking)
I don't know much about the corolla drum brakes, but many of the drum brake shoes are directional -- one goes on the front and one goes on the rear. If they are indeed different and you replaced them, I'd probably recommend buying new shoes.
I'd go with the easy route first of bleeding the system. You want to bleed back brakes then front brakes.
You shouldn't need to replace the pads unless you are getting a vibration or a squeal upon braking.
If you are bleeding by yourself you need to bleed the fluid through a hose into a reservoir of brake fluid (cup, bottle, etc); otherwise when you release the pedal there is a vacuum on the line and it will suck air back into the system. Not sure if I'm explaining it logically, but when you press down on the brake, fluid escapes through the bleeder screw, and when you release, a small bit gets sucked back in. So you need to pump the brakes a few times, and then the final release of the brake will suck back in fluid if the hose is in a reservoir of brake fluid.
No brake fluid actually came out of the piston and not the bleeder screw. Without the drum in place, pumping the brake all the way made the pistons go ALL the way out, so the brake fluid starting leaking out of the pistons.... i thought i had to get a new master cylinder cause of that... but when i pushed the piston back in, it was still working fine, so i bled the brake on that end and it seems to work like it was before.
Yes i understand the bleeding process, but if im doing it myself, how will i know when clean brake fluid comes out... and that i can move on to the next brake?
i was thinking of changing the pads anyways cause i was thinking of relubing the whole thing, incase there isnt any or not much lube on it already...
If you're trying to flush out the old brake fluid, you'll probably need to pump the pedal a few times, check and empty out the bleed reservoir, and repeat until fresh fluid is filling into the reservoir. And you have to keep topping up the master reservoir periodically...
Yeah, if you're doing all that work, might as well get new pads.
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