There is a ring welded over this part of the exhaust that is pointed out in the picture. Right now its loose and rattling all the time. Can I get rid of it is it serving a purpose?
__________________
1998 Toyota Corolla VE (A3 --> A4 swap completed 9-30-10)
that is needed to connect the rest of the exhaust to the downpipe. what is rattling isnt that ring, but the clamp on it. the clamp could be loose. hell it could be missing for all i know. but you need it. think of it as a oem toyota style vband flange, but its not a true vband. the cat pipe butts up to that "ring" then a clamp that is form fitted to the ring/catpipe goes over the joint and seals it/hold it together.
shit i just realized your local. i may have a spare downpipe somewhere. if you need it let me know. cus you can have it.
that is needed to connect the rest of the exhaust to the downpipe. what is rattling isnt that ring, but the clamp on it. the clamp could be loose. hell it could be missing for all i know. but you need it. think of it as a oem toyota style vband flange, but its not a true vband. the cat pipe butts up to that "ring" then a clamp that is form fitted to the ring/catpipe goes over the joint and seals it/hold it together.
shit i just realized your local. i may have a spare downpipe somewhere. if you need it let me know. cus you can have it.
Thats what I was afraid of. I'm guessing this is happening because I had a straight pipe welded in place of my cat. If this "clamp" is only holding the pipes together couldn't I just figure out a way to hold it still? The only way to remove it is to cut it off. I'm gonna get a picture of the actuall situation posted soon.
__________________
1998 Toyota Corolla VE (A3 --> A4 swap completed 9-30-10)
I see what you mean now though. I got under the car with it running and could feel an exhaust leak coming from there also. That explains why I smell fumes every time when I run my heat.
So more importantly, what would be the best solution to fix the leak. I'm thinking just get the stupid clamp removed and get the shit welded.
Was that clamp attached in some other way before? Like when the cat was still connected. Maybe I can get the shop to fix it for free if it is something they did wrong.
__________________
1998 Toyota Corolla VE (A3 --> A4 swap completed 9-30-10)
running w/o a cat is just a bad idea, but your choice non-the less, depending how bad the leak itself is, try using muffler cement to fix the leak, and use a die grinder to remove the clamp if it is still there
We don't have emissions testing here. I got rid of the cat because it was going bad anyway and throwing a code. Why spend a bunch of money for something that will fail again. The car isn't much louder. Its also simple to fool the rear o2 sensor.
__________________
1998 Toyota Corolla VE (A3 --> A4 swap completed 9-30-10)
the best and simplest solution is to just replace the clamp and pipe, if they are bad like you think. you might want to check them, the clamp could be just loose. there are also 2 gaskets for the downpipe. a donut gasket for the manifold to downpipe and a odd o ring style one for the clamp connection. if you want you can have my spare downpipe and mild ported manifold. they are both just sitting, taking up space. i want them gone. all you would need is the gaskets. which can be ordered from toyotapartszone.com IIRC for cheap. the whole swap of a manifold and downpipe takes like 20-30 minutes. provided the clamp is in good shape.
the best and simplest solution is to just replace the clamp and pipe, if they are bad like you think. you might want to check them, the clamp could be just loose. there are also 2 gaskets for the downpipe. a donut gasket for the manifold to downpipe and a odd o ring style one for the clamp connection. if you want you can have my spare downpipe and mild ported manifold. they are both just sitting, taking up space. i want them gone. all you would need is the gaskets. which can be ordered from toyotapartszone.com IIRC for cheap. the whole swap of a manifold and downpipe takes like 20-30 minutes. provided the clamp is in good shape.
I'll give the parts a try. I'm still thinking the shop that removed the cat tampered with that clamp. Is that clamp supposed to bolt on? Because mine is welded. I'll need a new clamp if I replace the downpipe since I'll have destroy the clamp to get it off. I wish I could remember what it looked like under there before the cat delete.
__________________
1998 Toyota Corolla VE (A3 --> A4 swap completed 9-30-10)
yeah the clamp is supposed to be bolted on. it has a stud with a nut on one side. it does sound like the shop messed up. not surprising at all. the stud has a tendency to break if its the first time coming off since it was installed. but you can easily knock the stud out with a hammer and use a bolt, couple washer and a nylon lock nut. this is how mine is now. i dont think i have a spare clamp, but ill check.
yeah that is the part number, but without the A at the end, as seen in the lower pic. and for 5 bucks that kinda cheap. i love that site, they always have great prices. i have bought so much oem parts on there during my engine rebuild.
if they don't peak under the car for emissions....youre car will still pass an air quality test without one (i run an empty shell and pass emissions yearly with flying colors) it adds minimal hp/tq because of how low powered our engines are anyway but an upgrades an upgrade...
if they don't peak under the car for emissions....youre car will still pass an air quality test without one (i run an empty shell and pass emissions yearly with flying colors) it adds minimal hp/tq because of how low powered our engines are anyway but an upgrades an upgrade...
true, but their are other contributing factors that help this. like the staggered cam setup, higher compression, vvti and the longer stoke of the 1zz. both of these allow for longer burn time of the air fuel mixture. more so the long stroke. the staggered cams trap a bit of unburnt exhaust in the chamber. this is because there is less lift and duration on the exhaust side. vvti can play into this as well by closing the intake valve sooner.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
