after doin some research i found out they have drums... does anyone know if the rears require a brake flush?... i need to flush the fluid out but do i need to flush the rears?
after doin some research i found out they have drums... does anyone know if the rears require a brake flush?... i need to flush the fluid out but do i need to flush the rears?
If you're flushing your fluid, you need to flush all four wheels. I don't think the ABS system has any bleeders. Flush by bleeding the right rear, then left rear, then right front, lastly left front. Distance furthest from master cylinder to closest. Bleed until all large bubbles are gone, very very small bubbles aren't an issue. By the time you get to the front left, you should have all new fluid. I use ATE TYP200 fluid, it's excellent for street use. Be sure to keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level between pumps and wheels.
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My Vehicles:
2001 Toyota Corolla LE - EBC Ultimax Rotors, HPS pads, Goodridge stainless lines, K&N drop in filter, Magnaflow cat and Exhaust, KYB GR-2, Tein H-Techs
1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo - More mods than Lindsay Lohan has freckles
hmmm i only want to bleed cause my buddy was trying to take off the front brakes, but he took off the wrong bolt and brake fluid started leaked... he took the bolt that holds the brake like to the caliper, should it be normal for it to leak fluid after he just loosened it a bit?? could i just flush this side of the wheel?? probably about 250ml of brake fluid came out, buddy didnt even tightedn it up after he loosened it... dont let rookies work on ur car..
hmmm i only want to bleed cause my buddy was trying to take off the front brakes, but he took off the wrong bolt and brake fluid started leaked... he took the bolt that holds the brake like to the caliper, should it be normal for it to leak fluid after he just loosened it a bit?? could i just flush this side of the wheel?? probably about 250ml of brake fluid came out, buddy didnt even tightedn it up after he loosened it... dont let rookies work on ur car..
With your Rolla on jackstands and all the wheels off, and your rookie friend helping you, it'll take 15 minutes to bleed all four wheels. Rookie pumps the brakes 3 times, holds it down, you open the bleeder valve, close it, he releases. Repeat.
IMHO, you may be fine bleeding just that one wheel, but it's good for your car to flush brake fluid regularly.
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My Vehicles:
2001 Toyota Corolla LE - EBC Ultimax Rotors, HPS pads, Goodridge stainless lines, K&N drop in filter, Magnaflow cat and Exhaust, KYB GR-2, Tein H-Techs
1990 Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo - More mods than Lindsay Lohan has freckles
8th gen in Europe, most luxurious / sporty version does have dics brakes on the back (I have them on my sedan).
Brake fluid needs to be replaced very 2 years. I replace mine every year. It's easy to do (first time may take you some time, but thereafter only few minutes for each wheel. Brake fluid gets conterminated / attracts water lowering the boiling point. You may not notice it, but when you have to make an emergency stop, the brake fluid could start boiling and you could lose your brakes.
Also - if there's to much water in the fluid it could cause parts to corrode / rust.
It is normal for the brake fluid to start dripping if you losen the flexible brake hose. Even if the system is not under pressure, you still have gravity that pulls on the fluid.
It is normal for the brake fluid to start dripping if you losen the flexible brake hose. Even if the system is not under pressure, you still have gravity that pulls on the fluid.
so u r saying my brakes should be fine? no air in system? i woulda thought there would be, i set it back up today and got it on wheels.. brakes didnt seem to squishy... there was a medium sized puddle under the brake caliper though when buddy un tightend that screw.. i also saw a small rip in the caliper piston boot when the piston was extracted.. should this be a problem? it was probably 1cm away from the tip of the brake piston(the part that touches pad)... i am geussing it should be fine... worse case scenerio the piston just locks up right?
so u r saying my brakes should be fine? no air in system? i woulda thought there would be, i set it back up today and got it on wheels.. brakes didnt seem to squishy... there was a medium sized puddle under the brake caliper though when buddy un tightend that screw.. i also saw a small rip in the caliper piston boot when the piston was extracted.. should this be a problem? it was probably 1cm away from the tip of the brake piston(the part that touches pad)... i am geussing it should be fine... worse case scenerio the piston just locks up right?
Don't know exactly what your buddy has done, thus can't tell you if your brakes will be fine. Only loosening the screw I don't expect that air will get in, but it is not impossible.
Bleeding the brakes is easy, I would bleed at least that brake so I know it will be OK.
Rip in the caliper boot equals warning signs of problems!! Better (get it) fixed soon. The problem - water and dirt can now get to the brake piston. It will start rusting. Rust will cause the piston to get stuck. A stuck piston will result in sticking / dragging brakes (or maybe even failing brakes). Dragging brakes will result in overheating of your brake disc and pads, ruining them, overheating the brake fluid and thus failing brakes.
Get if fixed asap, as long as the internals of your brakes haven't started rusting, you can repair it. If it's rusted, it's more expensive to fix or will have to be replaced.
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