Upgrading Wiring for Stock Headlights?

[105]

Has anyone tried upgrading the stock headlight wiring with relays to increase the light output? I'm just trying to figure out if its worth the trouble.
Here is an example of what I'm talking about.
http://www.jag-lovers.org/books/xj-s/26-Lightmods.html

FYI: I've currently got the regular long life Sylvania bulbs installed currently, which are not very bright. I thought about getting the Ultras but I've heard they burn out pretty quick sometimes, like anywhere from 3 months to a year.

[fishexpo101]

Probably depends on which SilverStars you get - some seem to last significantly longer than others (Osram Silverstars are considered superior to standard, heavily blue tinted Sylvania Silverstars). Also, if you are looking to increase light output or select light wavelengths that appear brighter.

Example, I used to run Sylvania Cool Blue lamps, regular halogen bulbs that are at a slightly higher color temperature than standard halogen bulbs (CB appeared "whiter" than the XtraVisions that I had in there). Total lumens were actually slightly lower than the standard long life halogen lamps from Sylvania, but the color temperature allowed me to see more detail at night, given the sensitivity of human eyesight to certain wavelengths. Silverstars would put out more light output, but the Cool Blues lasted almost three years for me.

GE Nighthawks are also well liked. Halogen bulbs that have similar properties to Silverstars but not has deeply tinted. Nighthawks are also reputed to last longer than Silverstars.

Also, consider polishing up the headlamp assemblies if they seem hazy or yellowed from the elements. Even a slight haze will have a significant affect on light output. From there, you are looking at doing a headlamp retrofit to so HIDs the right way, and/or beef up the existing wiring to cut down on parasitic losses in the stock wiring to standard Halogen lamps.

[AlaricD]

Originally Posted by 105

Has anyone tried upgrading the stock headlight wiring with relays to increase the light output? I'm just trying to figure out if its worth the trouble.

To see if it is going to be worth the trouble, test the voltage drop in accordance with the instructions here. (You'll have to scroll down a bit to get to the instructions. Also note the table that shows how voltage changes result in brightness changes, so you know what effect the voltage loss has.)

Remember: Bulbs are rated for life at 14V, and for intensity at 12.8V -- so the closer you can get to 14V (without going over) the closer you'll get to the bulb's rated life. Sure, your bulbs will last much longer if you're not getting sufficient voltage to them, but you'll see much better when you give them higher voltage.

FYI: I've currently got the regular long life Sylvania bulbs installed currently, which are not very bright. I thought about getting the Ultras but I've heard they burn out pretty quick sometimes, like anywhere from 3 months to a year.

Long life bulbs sacrifice intensity for long life; and get even dimmer over time. Long before they've stopped lighting at all, they will have stopped producing enough light.

Skip the long life bulbs, and skip the "Ultras", and get the Philips X-Treme Power instead. The "Silverstar Ultras" have extremely low lifespan, and the blue glass removes far too much usable light, leaving behind blue light that is difficult for the eye to process.

Another note on the relays: Toyota uses a ground-switched lighting system with a few other complexities. Daniel Stern should be able to provide you a diagram and instructions that accomodate the needs of this lighting system. He also sells quality Bosch relays and ceramic sockets, so you'll know that if you spec out a kit with him you'll not be left in the dark later on.

[AlaricD]

Originally Posted by fishexpo101

Also, consider polishing up the headlamp assemblies if they seem hazy or yellowed from the elements. Even a slight haze will have a significant affect on light output.

Another worthwhile endeavor! Be sure to reseal the lenses after you've polished off the yellowed hardcoat. A good kit to do this with is this one from Double Horn Products.

Regardless of your method to do the polishing itself (whether sanding, or a drill-based kit) you MUST reseal it with a real hardcoat -- the 'lotions' and 'waxes' in many other kits are subpar, stopgap solutions that must be reapplied time and again.

[105]

Thanks for the ideas and links guys. I'll do some more research on that stuff.

I have wet sanded and polished by hand the lights before with a Novus polishing kit. It worked pretty well but it does seem like they're getting hazy again. I may give that kit a try or just buy some replacement lenses from ebay for about $50.

[AlaricD]

Originally Posted by 105

I have wet sanded and polished by hand the lights before with a Novus polishing kit. It worked pretty well but it does seem like they're getting hazy again. I may give that kit a try or just buy some replacement lenses from ebay for about $50.

I looked at the Novus 'kits' at novuspolish.net -- it seems that they'd do a great job of cleaning and polishing, they don't really afford the UV protection and scratch resistance that the DH spray will give.

I've heard of people getting great results with Mothers Aluminum and Mag polish (and so I got some for my wife's 'high school car' and it did a fantastic job and was super easy), but even that won't last without recoating. In essence, it doesn't matter how you GET them clear -- but it DOES matter how you KEEP them clear.

[105]

Oh yeah, I also used the Novus on my other car that had one faded and one new headlight, and it could not get it as clear as the new one. A guy on another forum said its not possible to restore it completely with out a power buffer. I wet sanded and polished it twice.