Exhaust broke right after resonator

[EdW]

Any suggestions on the best way to go about fixing this given that the factory pipe has the resonator and cat as all one piece? '98 Corolla LE. Pipe doesn't look bad and was thinking of having it welded, but it must be thin if it's in the process of separating right after the weld...

The aftermarket pipes from places like Napa and Advance only have the resonator and an open pipe in front heading towards the cat. Not sure if the I.D. of that new front pipe would allow cutting of the factory pipe after the cat and a slip on type fit?

Thanks for any suggestions. Factory pipe lasted 13 years, made of some good material! No doubt aftermarket will be much shorter lived.

[Milky]

the cat pipe is all one piece and most aftermarket company's (bosal, magnaflow, etc) make an OE replacement, if you want to go that route. but from the sounds of it, your repair should only take a few minutes at an exhaust shop to fix. should not cost much at all either.

[EdW]

Thanks for the reply. So you think it's worth it for a shop to try and weld the current pipe then?

Now that it's loose there, it seems a large part of the issue may be that the muffler strap/hanger allows the whole rear section to "pivot" as the only attachment point is in the middle of the muffler at the top, and that puts stress right on that weld area by allowing the muffler to swing side to side. Am thinking it may not be a bad idea to add some add'l hangers to support the rear section between the muffler and the resonator?

[Milky]

if its repaired, it will be stronger in that section than it was before. the flexing from it being damaged, will cause more damage to the pipe. adding another hanger is not a bad idea, but i would replace the oe hangers on the resonator just in front of that. they tend to wear out fast. the muffler support is decent IMO.

[EdW]

Agreed, the muffler support is original and never had an issue with it. I just wish instead of one center hanger right over the muffler body, they used two, one on each side of the muffler, and I think the tendency for it to "sway" back and forth would be reduced greatly.

Thanks for the tip on the resonator hangers, I'll swap them out. My only other question is whether they'll have to drop the system to weld the top part of the pipe behind the resonator?

[Milky]

they might have to. depends on how skillful of a welder is performing the job.

[EdW]

OK, here's the short story consolidated. The original factory pipe between the cat and the resonator isn't perfectly round or straight, so cutting it and using an aftermarket resonator pipe as a "slip on fit" for $85 wouldn't work (unless you could weld it in).

So I went to the muffler shop and the guy told me that the original pipe, though broken at the weld on the back end of the resonator, was still in good shape and actually made out of stainless steel. I was surprised it was stainless, but it made sense given how long this original exhaust has lasted and been trouble free.

The good news is that he was able to just (re) weld that broken area at the original weld, without having to move it at all. Took less than 5 minutes and cost $20. Can't beat that, very nice to have something go that way for a change! I've got to learn how to weld...

Thanks for the replies Milky, hope this helps someone else who may encounter this problem with their exhaust.

[Milky]

glad i could be of assistance. also, welding is pretty easy. my advice for learning is to buy a decent welder and a few books on welding. read on how to setup your welder for what material your using and start practicing.