DRL electrical properties

[leeor_net]

I'm going to be installing a xenon HID conversion kit in the next week. In preparation, I've been trying to find information about what method the DRL system uses to reduce power to the low's for daytime running.

Basicly, is the method a simple power reduction at a constant flow rate or is it a pulse method that oscillates the power?

If it's an oscilation, what controls that? The DRL relay or is there a control unit?

I could simply pull the DRL relay if need be but if it uses the oscillation I'd rather put a capacitor system in there to provide a constant volatge rather than simply having the DRL's non functional.

[Buurin]

Originally Posted by leeor_net

I'm going to be installing a xenon HID conversion kit in the next week. In preparation, I've been trying to find information about what method the DRL system uses to reduce power to the low's for daytime running.

Please...

Basicly, is the method a simple power reduction at a constant flow rate or is it a pulse method that oscillates the power?

If it's an oscilation, what controls that? The DRL relay or is there a control unit?

I could simply pull the DRL relay if need be but if it uses the oscillation I'd rather put a capacitor system in there to provide a constant volatge rather than simply having the DRL's non functional.

There is a DRL main relay by the passenger air bag that controls it. Does it by putting a pair of transistors on the ground leg of the lights to reduce current. Don't know if it is done by pulse modulation or simply a big transistor not fully turned on, because I don't have an oscilloscope to confirm. But I measured the bulb and got 9V across when DRL is on.

If you just pulled the DRL relay you would have no headlight at all. Search here for the standard method to deal with it - disconnect one wire (pin 23, red/blue) into the DRL main relay and fool DRL into not turning on.

[leeor_net]

I've looked at pulling the one wire but I don't actually want to disable the DRL's. I just want to make sure I'm not going to destroy the ballast with an incorrect voltage input.

Looking at the wiring diagrams for the DRL system, it looks like it's a constant voltage at a reduced power output (which should be fine). But like you said, I'd need to check that for sure. I can use the oscilloscope we've got at work to be sure.

9v sounds like it's just reduced power as they normally run at about 12.8v (well, that's the rating specs for the 9006's anyway).

BTW, nice projectors... I was considering a retrofit like that too but I think I'll stick with the standard assemblies for now.