Driver Window Question -

[militarydave]

Sup fellas. I have an annoying issue with my driver's side power window on my 99 CE.

I'm guessing the power window motor (maybe regulator) is going bad because the window WILL roll down, past half way (opens about 3/4's of the way down) then stops. If I click the down button no luck. if i wait a few minutes, i can roll it down all the way.

when I try to then roll it back up (not right away, but later) it goes up about half way at normal speed, and then slowly crawls to a stop. I click the button, no luck.

After waiting a few minutes, it goes up slightly. - I repeat this until the window closes all the way.

Me thinks the motor is getting hot and stops. the window is not de-railed or anything.

second opinion on my diagnosis?

I'm opting to buy an entire new Window Motor/Regulator, but looks like a Pain in the to do.

is this worth tackling on myself, or should i opt to take it a shop, toyota and pay for labor, since I get discounts on the part (except toyota wont honor warranty if it is not their part).


any thoughts/comments/suggestions are much appreciated.


-dave

[leeor_net]

Your window motor is fried. Unless the regulator is damaged (not likely), just get a new motor (around $50 USD). You will need to pull off the entire regulator/motor assembly though -- luckily ours are bolted on, not riveted. Just be careful when you unbolt the window glass from the regulator so it doesn't slide down and break (I didn't have any issues with the glass suddenly dropping but it's a good warning anyway).

There are something like 7 or 8 bolts, don't remember excactly, but once you unbolt them the regulator just slides right out of the hole in the door frame.

Take care when taking off the old motor -- the regulator will pop due to tension so be sure to keep your fingers OUT of the regulator. After taking the old motor off the regulator, you'll need to put tension on the regulator's coil spring with one hand as you attach the new motor. These are self-tapping screws so you'll need to use a good bit of force if you're hand-tightening them. Once you get two screws in you should be able to let go of the regulator with one hand while you put the last one in (there are three total).

Hope that helps -- if you need additional advice I can provide it. I've gone through the process of replacing the window motor on my driver side front door.

[militarydave]

thanks Leeor - i'll taclke this on next weekend probably.

[squint23]

Hi Militarydave, how did the installation go? Are there any additional tips you would recommend?
Also, I have a 2001 LE and could use some help, did you use any helpful videos?

[leeor_net]

This is a really good step-by-step photo guide of how to replace the lift motor yourself. The only thing I would do differently is completely lift the window glass out of the door and set it in a safe place somewhere.

[squint23]

Thanks Leeor but I don't see a link or photos.
I did see some people were taping the window while it was in the up position. Do you think that would suffice?

[leeor_net]

Originally Posted by squint23

Thanks Leeor but I don't see a link or photos.
I did see some people were taping the window while it was in the up position. Do you think that would suffice?

Oh wow, I totally fail, huh? Here's the link:

http://rinconrolla98.blogspot.com/20...lla-98-02.html

You could tape the window glass in place but I personally take it out completely and set it aside somewhere safe so it doesn't break and there's no risk of the tape failing and the glass breaking that way. That's just what I do -- besides, by taking it out completely you have the opportunity to really clean every part of the glass. And finally, it's easier to just take the glass out than to try to hold it up with one hand while you tear off pieces of tape with the other.

[militarydave]

I replaced the motor, but kept the regulator, as is was fine.

I bought a NEW motor from Oreilly Auto parts (not a reman) for about 60 bucks. as the step by step shows you - you pull the door panel off, raise the window all the way up, duct tape it, and start unscrewing all the bolts.

The regulator came out in once piece. I had to cut the wire harness (pigtail connector) from the old motor and crimp it to the new one.

I cleaned the regulator completely, and re-greased it with White lithium grease. installed it back up.


not as hard as you think. there's suprisingly a lot of room on the side of the door to pull out the window regulator/motor on my 99.

window works like a charm!

[leeor_net]

Regulators rarely need to be replaced unless it's been damaged by a side impact (vehicle, deer or otherwise).

I got my window motor for $50 from AutoZone (granted that was after discount and taxes) -- it was a Doorman so it had several connectors available for various makes and models. I didn't have to cut and crimp anything, simple plug and play.

And yeah, we're lucky with our cars -- the window regulators are bolted on, not riveted which makes the whole process a lot harder than it needs to be...

[squint23]

Well, I didn it. I did break off a couple of the clips for the door panel, but it seems to be holding in place without too much movement.
Unlike others, the job took me about 90 minutes, but I don't know how much of that was related to finishing up after dark.

Now all I need to do is change the rear driver side. Sure hope it's a little easier... Not to say the drivers door was all that tough.

Thanks for all the help!

Oh, by the way, after doing some research I decided to purchase the wew CARDONE lift motors (not reman) at Kragen/O'rielly and they cost me about $80.00 each. Also, when I installed the motor, there are no pigtail attachments and you do need to crimp on the wires. I recommend making these additional puchases.
1) Extra wire connectors (compare to the ones in the motor box)
2) Wite lithium grease, not included in the motor kit