i kinda need a list of things to redo the suspension its not i can't do the job, its that its my d2d car and i can't go drive off for parts if im missing something. so far this is what i have link kits (also know as stabilizer bar bushings) (front rear) (they're done, haven't broke but make alot of noise) the actual shock absorber (the piston) (front rear) anything else i should replace while at it, like the springs shoudl those be gone to i belive the the originals so im wondering on those, also i recall something about bushings that should be replaced but i can't remember what eactly
Look at the bellows (boot) that goes over the strut rod. Mine had completely fallen apart. They had a lot of miles on them. I also replaced my rear springs.
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'98 Prizm 4spd 272K bought @ 221K for $300 Oil consumption fixed @ 265K for $247
Struts, strut mounts, strut cushion and coil springs (assuming they're sagging, corroded or rusted). While you're at it check the play in the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. Check the play in the sway bar links.
Might be a good idea to have some PB Blast on hand to loosen the bolts that hold the brake hoses onto the struts. One of mine was so badly rusted that I had to drill it out so also have a drill and bits if need be (used a small one for a 'pilot' and then a fat one to break the head off but it may not be necessary for you if the bolts come loose). I also like to use WD-40 to de-rust any bolts/nuts/etc. whenever I have them off the car (let set for a few sprayed with WD-40 and scrub with a brass wire brush).
You'd need a coil spring compressor. May be a good idea to have a strap/chain wrench on hand. You'll need a set of metric sockets (10mm, 17mm and 19mm sockets at least) with socket wrench. Would be a good idea to have a metric set of combination wrenches as well to help with the strut pins. Also a breaker bar, a torque wrench (205 ft. lbs. for the strut pins when putting them back on) and a bench vise. Naturally it would be a good idea to have a good jack and set of jack stands.
If your mounts are still in good shape and you don't want to replace them (like mine) you may want to consider repacking the bearings. Use a bunch of brake cleaner to really get all the old crap out of the bearings, let them dry then repack with a quality grease. I used a synthetic grease on mine but dino grease will do.
id have to look at my springs but i think there fine, the struts are what mostly starting to go an ill have to check the mounts when i have time, and is there a way to check the cushion with out taking it all apart since it is my daily car i can<t exactly go drive to the store when i need something else with no suspension also im doing my link kits( sway bar links?) cause those are really rattling at the moment
thanks and any more suggestions
If you are doing the rear struts, you almost certainly need to replace the springs if you still have the stock springs, as they sag after about 5 years. Having sagging springs causes new struts to bottom out and get destroyed within a few years.
You will need a line wrench to remove the brake line nuts (I think it's 10mm). If you try a normal open-end wrench or a vice grips you will likely strip the nut and need a new brake line. And you need to bleed the air out of the brakes afterward, so you need a brake bleeder and some brake fluid.
If you want my recommendation, I'd replace the entire strut as an assembly (strut, coils, mounts, boot, etc). This way you don't need to compress the old springs and new springs, and it's cheaper.
I bought mine from here; the whole strut assembly was cheaper than just a strut and mount:
- strut assemblies (either 2 or 4, depending on whether front/rear are being replaced)
- stabilizer end links, aka sway bar links (I replaced all 4 of mine, as they were toast)
- brake fluid
- Haynes Manual
Tools:
- jack
- jack stands
- 2 foot or longer breaker bar (the struts are held on with 100+ pounds of torque)
- 1/2" torque wrench to put the bolts back on with (or you can go by feel if you're careful)
- 6-point socket set, going up to 19mm (do not use 12-point sockets, as they can strip bolts)
- 10mm line wrench (to remove the brake line)
- penetrating oil
- brake bleeder (you can get a "1 man bleeder kit" for < $10)
Two persons would be recommended, but you can do it all yourself. I was able to replace mine without previously having any car mechanic knowledge. It certainly was a lot of learning, but we got it done in a weekend.
The strut cushions are the 'bellows' that someone mentioned earlier -- they are actually called cushions.
Anyway, just look behind the wheel and at the strut through the coil spring. If you see the cushion in place and it's intact, you probably don't need to replace it. If they're like mine and shredded appart, you definitely want to get some new ones.
As for the rear coil springs, I disagree that they always sag after 5 years. My car is 10 years old, rear struts/springs have never been replaced and they aren't sagging. Coil springs don't have an expiration date, they only need to be changed when they're damaged/sagging so if neither of those conditions exist then there's no need to change them.
I can agree, though, that the strut/spring assembly (preassembled struts) makes the job a lot easier and a lot faster. Just take out the old assembly, put the new one in and you're done.
Note, however, that after you put the new struts in, you should get your wheels aligned. The camber is typically affected whenever you take out the strut pins so yeah, definitely a good idea to make sure they're in proper alignment so you don't wear out your tires.
Yep... mine is definitely not sagging like that at all. Although I do see what you mean -- the 8th gen's are very common around here and I do see a lot of them like that (never paid any attention to it though).
I agree on the sagging issue with the corollas, which I have, (1999 CE only owner from factory). The struts and tires were original from day one (michelins MX4s and original struts). I replaced them with new KYB GR-2 (most consider to be oem), and new tires, and the sagging disappeared.
In regards to the OP`s situation, I think you need two things. 1) Trusted Mechanic 2) Look at your budget
1) If you have a good trustworthy mechanic, take it in and see whats going, on. For my car he looked at it (1999 CE, 75,XXX, original suspension components and tires), he was like the struts are shot, the springs are good, and everything else seemed in order.
2) My original idea was to renew the suspension on the car with new ready mount all in one struts from either gabriel or monroe, and I looked around and most people find that when you compare the durability, and ride quality you get in investing with cheaper- big franchise store parts to those of the oem/aftermarket reliable brands, theirs a considerable loss (You get what you paid for). And after personally doing a check, I think that if your springs (oem) arent completely shot, then keep them, and just replace what you plan to replace, and the struts. I just did KYB-GR2s and new Falken tires, and the ride quality is night and day, and the sagging issue is gone. Don`t invest too much on the corolla, since its your daily driver, keep it running order and thats it, we drive corollas, and not high performance beasts like the M3. Keep that additional money in investing in emergency repairs or gas money lol!
well im mainly looking at budget, also i dont have a torque wrench or the spring compressor . A good mechanic i don'T have and the garage i normally go too would charge about 2000$ for it, i know cause my parents have another 98 corolla and they had it redone there, i have the repair manual and i guess you can say im an amateur at mechanics cause i do a lot myself, but i don't think my coils are sagging ride height is that of my parents car. so that leaves the struts(shock absorber) the things for when they bottom out and the mounts/brackets then again i still haven't had the time to check and im planing to do this when schools out in mai or wheni have a day off im mainly getting advise and a shopping list going
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