First off, i have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with an aftermarket viper responder 350 alarm system and a JVC kw-nx7000 double din navigation system..
I have 2 electrical problems.
1) I have noise coming out of my speakers that aren't supposed to. One of the noises i have diagnosed as engine noise. However even when i first get into my car, and only turn my key to accessory mode, i get a high pitched whine that alternates between two different tones, the VERY moment my head units turns on, not when everything else turns on.
Problem number one, as far as my knowledge goes, has nothing to do with problem number two, but I thought I might share in case it DOES or if anyone has some ideas on how to fix it.
I checked all my wires/connections (besides actually whipping out a multimeter which i will be doing today) and made sure that everything was connected properly and where they are supposed to be.
I also just finished completing the
audio connections to help get more power but i only used 4 gauge wire and left the oem wires, i still haven't done the negative to the engine block but will be completing that this afternoon hopefully.
2) A certain group of electronic devices stay on when they shouldn't. When I take my keys completely out of the ignition, my rear driving lights, front turn signal driving lights, and all of my interior illumination lights stay on as well as when i open the door, i get that beeping reminder noise except it's constant.
I've done numerous things to try and figure out where this problem is coming from and I've narrowed the culprit down to 1C pin 6 and it's being constantly grounded where it shouldn't be.
My first thought was the alarm because the very second all of that nonsense started tripping out, the alarm went coocoo as well. After taking it to where i had my alarm installed, they regrounded my alarm because it had been pulled loose or something like that and was told that as far as the alarm goes, that it's working perfectly, and they have no idea what's going wrong with my lights/illumination. They put a little switch inline right after 1C pin 6 and said that any more diagnostic work would be $40 an hour. I took it home and went to work eliminating the culprits. Between the Haynes manual and the wiring diagram for 2000 Toyota Corolla, i was able to rule out possibilities very quick.
Here are some tests that I conducted to help diagnose my problem:
1. I pulled the little switch they put on and connected the wires to an existing aftermarket switch already installed in my car that was wired to some led's that ending up falling apart and taking a backseat to my other corolla projects. It is a switch from kragen with a built in LED that lights up when the circuit is completed through the switch. So when I flip the switch on, the led in the switch is turned on along with all of the above mentioned electronics. When it's off, everything is off.
Here's the catch, if i flip the switch on and lock my car, the led on the actual switch turns off for a brief second along with the clicking of a solenoid from under the dash i can hear.
2) I tried pulling the short pin, and the lights were still controlled by my switch.
3) I removed the "Tail Relay" and the lights did not work at all whatsoever.
4) I started unplugging fuses one by one and found that the only fuse that causes the lights to not work whether the switch is on or off is the 10amp(correct?) tail fuse on the driver's side junction/fuse box inside the car next to the steering column.
5) My next thought was that the junction/fuse box or integration relay went bad so I went to pick-n-pull and got me one off of a 2002 corolla, it works fine but I still have the same problem. No Luck.
6) While hooking up the wires to my preinstalled switch, i used a multimeter to find out which one is supplying the power by using the ohms setting, but i think i may have done it wrong because one way showed continuity and the other way didn't, and the one way that showed continuity was negative on the wire going towards 1C and positive on the wire leading away.
I'm going to recheck this with my 12 volt led test lead but as far as the constant on my switch, it's the wire the leads away from 1C and the accessory is the wire leading towards 1C and the ground is just lead straight towards a ground point on the door.
anyone that knows anything about either of these problems please help!!!!! i pretty much still have a huge chunk of tests to do with the first problem and it's definitely not above my wiring/electrical capabilities to diagnose the engine noise problem, but as far as the second problem goes I've been being beaten around with the damn manual and wiring diagram and the only thing i'm missing is the wiring diagram for my viper alarm system and i think if can get it i can figure out what's wrong but i can't so my only other option is to rule out everything else and go back to the alarm installer (which should be soon), but i'm stuck, 1C 6 leads to both the DRL's and the theft deterrent system..
so i could the drl's, alarm system, or a pinched wire causing this problem,
oh, and now that i remember it, i think the alarms connection to 1C 6 is between the switch and 1C so it can't be the alarm system because i'm getting power from the other side, but my daytime running lights work great, know when to turn on and when to off =]
edit:
has anyone installed
http://www.viper.com/P-522T/Trunk-Release-Solenoid into an 8th gen corolla and if so how easy was it? i have no problem wiring stuff but drilling new holes and programming remotes and what not does not sound easy, especially when installation instructions aren't readily available..
Linear Mode
