Could threads relating to common issues and their fixes be summarized and placed in a single library file? For example:
Known Issues and Fixes for 1998 Corolla
1. The windshield wiper reservoir on 98's and up suffers from dry rot after a while. It can be replaced with an after market unit like the Dorman 603-413.
2. The hood release mechanism should be lubricated regularly to alleviate rusting and minimize tension force on the cable during operation. Also, on the hood side end of the cable jacket, there is a metal ferrule that wraps around a plastic tip. The tip in turn snaps into a holder on the release mechanism. The jacket comes at an angle to the release mechanism and puts pressure on the plastic tip causing it to eventually fail. Once broken the jacket and cable can slip out of the holder, making it impossible to open the hood without tools and difficult with tools. Replacement cables are available. The driver's side wheel well inner lining needs to be removed to gain access to the cable and pass through at the firewall. The hood release lever on the bottom of the dashboard has a slot in it that the cable slides into. The cable can only slide in from the driver's side of the lever(left side facing it).
3. A constant side air bag fault indicator light is often due to a poor connection under the front passenger or driver's seat. There is a connector under each of the two seats; opening and closing that connector often fixes the trouble light.
4. If the dashboard clock is intermittent it could be due to a poor connection between the two circuit boards within the clock assembly. The clock is held by a housing that is removable from the dashboard. There are screw driver slots on the bottom side of the housing roughly one inch from each side, and tabs about an inch down from the top of each side. Once out, the electrical plug on the back of the clock can be disconnected and the clock assembly popped out. There is a snap on each side of the clock, that can be spread sufficiently to allow the clock to slip out. Once the clock is free, the two screws holding the back together can be removed and the two circuit boards inside separated. Four springs, one over each contact pin, serve to interconnect the two boards. The springs make intermittent contact preventing proper clock operation. Adding solder to the board where the springs make contact is a temporary fix. Instead a small piece of fine copper copper wire can be soldered to each contact pad. This increases the force on each spring and provides a contact point that will not creep due to pressure from the spring. Soldering the wire to the pad is a delicate operation requiring a very low wattage soldering iron and rosin core solder; too much heat on the pads will cause them to lift and break off. Also, it is imperative to keep solder from shorting adjacent pads and components. The area around each pad can be carefully scrapped with a pointed piece of wood to remove excess rosin and solder splatters. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
NOTICE: Should you try any of the above fixes, you do so at your own risk.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bernie3 For This Useful Post:
Could threads relating to common issues and their fixes be summarized and placed in a single library file? For example:
Known Issues and Fixes for 1998 Corolla
1. The windshield wiper reservoir on 98's and up suffers from dry rot after a while. It can be replaced with an after market unit like the Dorman 603-413.
2. The hood release mechanism should be lubricated regularly to alleviate rusting and minimize tension force on the cable during operation. Also, on the hood side end of the cable jacket, there is a metal ferrule that wraps around a plastic tip. The tip in turn snaps into a holder on the release mechanism. The jacket comes at an angle to the release mechanism and puts pressure on the plastic tip causing it to eventually fail. Once broken the jacket and cable can slip out of the holder, making it impossible to open the hood without tools and difficult with tools. Replacement cables are available. The driver's side wheel well inner lining needs to be removed to gain access to the cable and pass through at the firewall. The hood release lever on the bottom of the dashboard has a slot in it that the cable slides into. The cable can only slide in from the driver's side of the lever(left side facing it).
3. A constant side air bag fault indicator light is often due to a poor connection under the front passenger or driver's seat. There is a connector under each of the two seats; opening and closing that connector often fixes the trouble light.
4. If the dashboard clock is intermittent it could be due to a poor connection between the two circuit boards within the clock assembly. The clock is held by a housing that is removable from the dashboard. There are screw driver slots on the bottom side of the housing roughly one inch from each side, and tabs about an inch down from the top of each side. Once out, the electrical plug on the back of the clock can be disconnected and the clock assembly popped out. There is a snap on each side of the clock, that can be spread sufficiently to allow the clock to slip out. Once the clock is free, the two screws holding the back together can be removed and the two circuit boards inside separated. Four springs, one over each contact pin, serve to interconnect the two boards. The springs make intermittent contact preventing proper clock operation. Adding solder to the board where the springs make contact is a temporary fix. Instead a small piece of fine copper copper wire can be soldered to each contact pad. This increases the force on each spring and provides a contact point that will not creep due to pressure from the spring. Soldering the wire to the pad is a delicate operation requiring a very low wattage soldering iron and rosin core solder; too much heat on the pads will cause them to lift and break off. Also, it is imperative to keep solder from shorting adjacent pads and components. The area around each pad can be carefully scrapped with a pointed piece of wood to remove excess rosin and solder splatters. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
NOTICE: Should you try any of the above fixes, you do so at your own risk.
Repost ALL of this in the FAQ Sticky at the top of the page
Sure it can be a sticky but that is not the point. The point is to not have to look for things but to have all known issues for a particular model on one page instead of all over the place. This way you can anticipate what service your car may need before it becomes a problem. Also, if you buy a used car, you can upgrade it more easily.
Sure it can be a sticky but that is not the point. The point is to not have to look for things but to have all known issues for a particular model on one page instead of all over the place. This way you can anticipate what service your car may need before it becomes a problem. Also, if you buy a used car, you can upgrade it more easily.
once upon a time we had nothing as far as a information center went in this section. Myself and a bunch of the common posters here put together along with the Mods help the FAQ sticky thread. WE have the ability to add information to the FAQ as we so choose. and ya know, god forbid you have to do some reading. you close the thread with a better knowledge then you went in with. and if you couldnt find a answer, make a thread for what you need.
This forum is wonderful and I'm not criticizing. In fact, I am thankful to the founders and grateful for the resource that it is. My suggestion is just that, a suggestion. It may not have any merit although a running list of common issues associated with a particular family of cars seems like a good idea.
I am not against doing research and reading. It can be time consuming but is relatively easy to do when you have a specific problem for which you need a specific answer. However, it would take an enormous amount of time to research and find all the commonly known problems associated with a particular family of cars, particularly when you are not even aware they exist. This is especially true as forum membership grows and cars get older.
OK, enough said, my apologies for bringing it up.
According to board rules only administrators are able to post stickies in the FAQs and I could not find any further information on the subject. Am I missing something? If I were to follow your suggestion and post a sticky how do I do it?
Just did AT 3 speed filter maintenance on my Rolla. Also bought the Doorman Washer tank replacement. Once the fluid is depleted I will replace as well. Thanks for the info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernie3
Could threads relating to common issues and their fixes be summarized and placed in a single library file? For example:
Known Issues and Fixes for 1998 Corolla
1. The windshield wiper reservoir on 98's and up suffers from dry rot after a while. It can be replaced with an after market unit like the Dorman 603-413.
2. The hood release mechanism should be lubricated regularly to alleviate rusting and minimize tension force on the cable during operation. Also, on the hood side end of the cable jacket, there is a metal ferrule that wraps around a plastic tip. The tip in turn snaps into a holder on the release mechanism. The jacket comes at an angle to the release mechanism and puts pressure on the plastic tip causing it to eventually fail. Once broken the jacket and cable can slip out of the holder, making it impossible to open the hood without tools and difficult with tools. Replacement cables are available. The driver's side wheel well inner lining needs to be removed to gain access to the cable and pass through at the firewall. The hood release lever on the bottom of the dashboard has a slot in it that the cable slides into. The cable can only slide in from the driver's side of the lever(left side facing it).
3. A constant side air bag fault indicator light is often due to a poor connection under the front passenger or driver's seat. There is a connector under each of the two seats; opening and closing that connector often fixes the trouble light.
4. If the dashboard clock is intermittent it could be due to a poor connection between the two circuit boards within the clock assembly. The clock is held by a housing that is removable from the dashboard. There are screw driver slots on the bottom side of the housing roughly one inch from each side, and tabs about an inch down from the top of each side. Once out, the electrical plug on the back of the clock can be disconnected and the clock assembly popped out. There is a snap on each side of the clock, that can be spread sufficiently to allow the clock to slip out. Once the clock is free, the two screws holding the back together can be removed and the two circuit boards inside separated. Four springs, one over each contact pin, serve to interconnect the two boards. The springs make intermittent contact preventing proper clock operation. Adding solder to the board where the springs make contact is a temporary fix. Instead a small piece of fine copper copper wire can be soldered to each contact pad. This increases the force on each spring and provides a contact point that will not creep due to pressure from the spring. Soldering the wire to the pad is a delicate operation requiring a very low wattage soldering iron and rosin core solder; too much heat on the pads will cause them to lift and break off. Also, it is imperative to keep solder from shorting adjacent pads and components. The area around each pad can be carefully scrapped with a pointed piece of wood to remove excess rosin and solder splatters. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
NOTICE: Should you try any of the above fixes, you do so at your own risk.
One more known issue is in regards to Evap malfunction code PO440.
PO440 is due to a leak on the tank side of the evap system.
If you're seeing a PO440 code:
1. Check your gas cap seal. The gas cap seal is a large rubber grommet. When you turn the gas cap over, the exposed side of the grommet may look fine but the underside may be full of hairline cracks.
2. If you live in the "rust belt", check the two vent tubes that connect near the top of the fuel filler neck. The tubes can rust out all the way through. OEM reconditioned fill tubes can be gotten from Filler Neck Supply dba Specialty Parts Group Inc, filernecksupply@yahoo.com.
3. Check the fill check valve located on top of the fuel tank. It is known to develop cracks in the housing.
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