Stop running valve train noise

[silversteed]

Hi I'm new to the forum and new to Toyotas. My son just purchased a 1998 Corrolla w/ 140k on it.

He did an oil change and then drove it 900 miles to Florida. On his way back (800th mile) the car just died on him.

He towed it home and I looked at it today. After charging the batter and letting him attempt to start it I gave it a shot. I had to coax it to start using the throttle. I then showed him and I went and gave a listen.

It barely ran and only for a few seconds at a time...Major valve train noise.
It sounded as though something were broke inside.

Not knowing this engine I'm not really sure what could have broke. Any ideas? I would assume I need to pull the valve cover, is there a DIY for this? (I couldn't find)

Thanks for any and all help.

[randini667]

Here is a guide that will help. Let us know what you find.

http://www.peakreflections.com/uploa...eplacement.pdf

[silversteed]

thanks for the link to the valve cover.

Pulled the valve cover and everything looked good.

Check the spark plugs they were a little oil fouled.

did a compression check and the first 3 cylinders were around 180 and the fourth was 0. Checked the piston while cranking and it doesn't move.

Good bye motor.

I now need to pull the motor.

Not sure what it is going to cost. But we are looking at all options.

What to you guys recommend? cost?

sort of a low budget situation as my son doesn't have a job yet and I will be helping a lot.

New motor and what should we do with the head?
Junk yard motor?
Rebuild ourselves.

good thing is my son really wants to learn about cars.


Thanks for the help

[Buurin]

Junkyard motor from a 99. Post mortem teardown of the old motor is already a good learning experience.

[randini667]

http://car-part.com will give you a idea what you are going to spend on an engine in your area.

[silversteed]

Been search for an engine and the prices are all over the road.

190k $900
41K $1100
?k 350-800

Most have a warranty of 90 days

[randini667]

Just my additional 2 cents...

As you experienced, the 98-02 years were infamous (not all) for oil consumption... Although a 99 replacement is lowest budget option, you are taking the chance of a repeat engine failure.

When mine died I bumped up to a 2008 engine block. Yours being a 99 is non-VTTi so that would require extra messing around... It's a dilemma.

I got a 2008 block with 0k miles for $1200. I went in circles trying to decide what mileage motor to buy. Glad it's over.

-Rand

[huangxin]

You could use the short block from 9th gen and reuse your head from the 99, provided that no damage done to the head.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but VVTi is activated by the electric switch through the intake cam gear. Theoretically, you should be able to just swap the VVTi gear out with your solid gear, and leave the VVTi switch unconnected, or plug it up. I don't think it'll get in the way. You'll have to reuse your coil packs and spark plug wires, as 2000+ has individual coils for each cylinder.

I've never worked on a non-VVTi 1zz, but I think it should work. It's a good idea to physically compare the two engines and take a look for yourself, if you are planning on using a newer engine from the 9th gen that is

EDIT: Oh, price-wise, I got an 05 engine with 75k for $750+ tax. It was tagged at $1000, but it had a busted intake manifold, and they sold the original engine I wanted, so I had a good bit of room to bargain on the price

[expertmax]

You are right. When no oil pressure is sent to the Oil Control Valve, the intake camshaft is in full retard position meaning that the engine will run normally 24/7 on the retard position. 15 degrees BTDC.

You will however have a check engine light on if you are using a VVT engine ECU.