Is this cruise control motor bad?

[Buurin]

Not mine, but I'm dealing with a cruise control retrofit installation that is throwing codes 11 and 12. I had him probe the actuator according to FSM and I get this reading:

1-2: 40.8 ohms
3-4: 1.7 megaohms

Is this actuator bad?

[expertmax]

Well between terminal 1 and 2 you need to have more than 4.2 ohms. So it looks like the actuator is fine.

Now you need to check for continuity between the Cruise Control ECU and the Actuator. (Only 4 wires to check)

Code 12 has to do with your stop light switch. Check the STOP fuse or the switch itself and check if you have properly wired the stop light switch to the Cruise Control ECU.

All these two codes could mean the Cruise Control ECU is bad but I doubt it...

Need any wiring diagrams ?

[Buurin]

Originally Posted by expertmax

Well between terminal 1 and 2 you need to have more than 4.2 ohms. So it looks like the actuator is fine.

Now you need to check for continuity between the Cruise Control ECU and the Actuator. (Only 4 wires to check)

Code 12 has to do with your stop light switch. Check the STOP fuse or the switch itself and check if you have properly wired the stop light switch to the Cruise Control ECU.

All these two codes could mean the Cruise Control ECU is bad but I doubt it...

Need any wiring diagrams ?

I have the wiring diagrams. And the stop light switch and fuse are reported to be fine - I originally mentioned for him to check these out as well.

[David*All-Trac]

Well, I'm the guy who has a problem with the cruise control.

As you can see, sometimes I put a lot of time to solve some of my problems. I do a bit of procrastination and I always have a little something to do : House, wife, childs, Landcruiser, work, vacation, ...

Anyway, I took some time tonight to do some testing. As I have already referred to Buurin, I have several time test, check the wires, test the conection and continuity... I also compared the resulting from my actuator with the actuator of a Camry and got the same results. As mentioned, my actuator is probably good.

I had not test the brake light switch (S6) yet. That's what I'm did tonight.

It's appears that there is always a resistance between terminals 3 and 4 of the stop light swicht (S6). When the button is pressed, there is a resistance ranging from 0.4 to 168 constantly on my ohmmeter.

Is this normal? What did the FSM says to test the switch with reference to the continuity between terminel 3 and 4 ?

Is it possible that the ECU deactivates the cruise control (or prevents it from being activated) because there is always this small but constant resistance?

Well... any input will be appreciated

[landphil]

I can scan the diagnostic test procedures for these codes from the FSM and e-mail them to you if you PM me your e-mail address. I'm currently working on installing "factory cruise" on my '01 CE, and bought the FSM for the occasion.

[David*All-Trac]

landphil. It is appreciated but I think I have all the literature I need. Buurin had share all that with me.

However, I admit that I need to know if there is a procedure to test the brake light switch from a point of view of the cruise control ... as mentioned in my previous post.

[Buurin]

^ FSM should have procedures in the DI section for putting the cruise control brain into input check mode. Then watch the light blink.

David if I haven't shared that procedure with you, give me a moment to assemble the info.

[landphil]

You can also measure the inputs with a voltmeter at the module connector. Pin 2 of C19 (module connector) should have 10-14V with brake pedal depressed, 0 volts with pedal released. this is supplied through pins 1/2 of the stop switch.
The only test in the FSM for the pin 3/4 side of the stop switch is a continuity test - pins 3/4 should have continuity when the switch in pushed in, pedal released. I measured the continuity of the used switch I installed in mine, it too ranged from 25-140 ohms, but the clutch switch had similar results, as did the brand new clutch switch in installed in my Tacoma, that works great. I used my crappy tire (read i don't trust it one bit) multimeter for the tests, as my good multimeter is at work.

I re-read the whole post again, unless I'm missing something, the actuator magnetic clutch circuit (pins 3 -4) has issues. The resistance spec for pins 3 to 4 of the actuator is 34.65-45.35 ohms, nowhere close to the 1.7 Megaohms (essentially open circuit) that was listed here.

[David*All-Trac]

All this seems very useful. I'll do some more tests. Someone could test is actuator for me at the terminal 3 and 4?



I know these are two differents cars but I repeat that the tests done on the 2000 Camry's actuator gave the same results as my actuator ... knowing that the Camry's cruise control is working fine.

As for reference (Corolla) :

Actuator pins 1 - 2 :



Actuator pins : 3 - 4 :

[Buurin]

Here is the input signal check procedure. No wires needed. You can even do it while driving. landphil: it's in the FSM, page DI-403.

With ignition ON, while holding the cruise stalk up or down press cruise main switch. Hold the stalk until you see CRUISE blinks either 2 or 3 times.

Blinking pattern:

No signal or when you're doing nothing: CRUISE light stays on.
Pull stalk down/SET/COAST: CRUISE goes off for 1sec, then blink 2 times, then another 1sec pause, repeat as long as it receives this signal.
Pull stalk up/RES/ACC: CRUISE goes off for 1sec, then blink 3 times, then another 1sec pause, repeat as long as it receives this signal.
Shift out of D/brake/clutch depressed/pull stalk to CANCEL: CRUISE goes off as long as any one of these conditions are true.
Vehicle speed: Once you hit 40km/h while in input signal check mode, the cruise light will blink rapidly.

When you are done, turn cruise off.

Originally Posted by David*All-Trac

I know these are two differents cars but I repeat that the tests done on the 2000 Camry's actuator gave the same results as my actuator ... knowing that the Camry's cruise control is working fine.

This is very reassuring. The actuators certainly look similar between my 97 Camry and Corolla.

Now do the signal test above.

[David*All-Trac]

Originally Posted by landphil

You can also measure the inputs with a voltmeter at the module connector. Pin 2 of C19 (module connector) should have 10-14V with brake pedal depressed, 0 volts with pedal released. this is supplied through pins 1/2 of the stop switch.

Yep, test done. OK

Originally Posted by Buurin

Blinking pattern:

No signal or when you're doing nothing: CRUISE light stays on.
Pull stalk down/SET/COAST: CRUISE goes off for 1sec, then blink 2 times, then another 1sec pause, repeat as long as it receives this signal.
Pull stalk up/RES/ACC: CRUISE goes off for 1sec, then blink 3 times, then another 1sec pause, repeat as long as it receives this signal.
Shift out of D/brake/clutch depressed/pull stalk to CANCEL: CRUISE goes off as long as any one of these conditions are true.
Vehicle speed: Once you hit 40km/h while in input signal check mode, the cruise light will blink rapidly.

When you are done, turn cruise off.

Everything that is written here occurs when I'm testing it .




Now what ?

[landphil]

I just measured the resistance on my actuator and got similar results as in your photos, BUT, you have your pin numbers mixed up - pin 4 is closest to the front of the car. This puts your pin 3-4 reading at 40.8 ohms, which is in spec.

Pin 1-2 resistance can't be measured when the control plate is fully open or fully closed, but should be above 4.2 ohms when not in either of these positions. Obviously it can't be infinity Ohms, for the motor to work. Mine measured 19.7 ohm with the control plate (metal arm) moved to about the center of it's travel. It clicks audibly when it "switches" internally.

Are you sure you don't want the T-shooting steps? Or you have them and are just not sure how to use them? (Honest question, and definitly not meant to be taken the wrong way)

As a side note, on my install, can I expect to find the idle signal wire, speed signal wire, cruise switch wires, and indicator light wire pre-wired to IK1 and IL1 connectors beside the ECM? I have a manual tranny, so no need for the O/D and ECT wires.

Edit: added info on actuator resistance

[David*All-Trac]

Originally Posted by landphil

Pin 1-2 resistance can't be measured when the control plate is fully open or fully closed, but should be above 4.2 ohms when not in either of these positions. Obviously it can't be infinity Ohms, for the motor to work. Mine measured 19.7 ohm with the control plate (metal arm) moved to about the center of it's travel. It clicks audibly when it "switches" internally.

Are you sure you don't want the T-shooting steps? Or you have them and are just not sure how to use them? (Honest question, and definitly not meant to be taken the wrong way)

I'll check back for the actuator ...

For the procedure, I would be foolish to refuse the offer. I send you my email in PM

[David*All-Trac]

I begin to think that, finally, I'll will do it!

I think I begin to understand what is my problem.

I think the wires of MY actuator’s plug (C3) are not the right place ... according to the FSM.


So according to FSM :

C3 plug =
1 : R-G
2 : R-B
3 : R-Y
4 : W-B





But in MY CASE :


My C3 plug =
1 : W-B
2 : R-Y
3 : R-G
4 : R-B



Well I have not changed this plug (wire) and it was probably take out from the car like that.....

So before attempting to cut and arrange the wires or try to extract them and put them to the right place ... is someone could confirm the position of the wire (and color) according to their actuator plug ?


Although at first I was not hurry to fix it ... Now I'm starting to get impatient

[Buurin]

Originally Posted by David*All-Trac

I think the wires of MY actuator’s plug (C3) are not the right place ... according to the FSM.


So according to FSM :

C3 plug =
1 : R-G
2 : R-B
3 : R-Y
4 : W-B





But in MY CASE :


My C3 plug =
1 : W-B
2 : R-Y
3 : R-G
4 : R-B



Well I have not changed this plug (wire) and it was probably take out from the car like that.....

So before attempting to cut and arrange the wires or try to extract them and put them to the right place ... is someone could confirm the position of the wire (and color) according to their actuator plug ?


Although at first I was not hurry to fix it ... Now I'm starting to get impatient

Yup, plug is definitely pinned wrong. Get a 1mm thin flat screwdriver from a precision screwdriver set and repin them.

Do not cut anything! You only need to rearrange the pins!

Hang in there, you need patience for this step and you're very close!

This screwdriver is best found in a kit like this:

Luckily you can find such kits in dollarama or similar.

1. Pry up the white tab in the plug. This frees the terminal lock.
2. Insert screwdriver straight in pin 1. Feel for a tab you can depress. Gently but firmly press on it, while the tab is pressed, pull wire away from you. Pin should come out intact. Repeat for the other 3 pins.
3. Push pins back in schematic order. Plug illustrations in diagram has the plug facing you.
4. When all wire are in the right place, push white terminal lock in.