Suspension help

[work1]

Hi,

I am wanting to upgrade the suspension in my 98 Corolla VE as it under-steers like crazy, plows and sucks. I have factory sway bars, KYB GR2 shocks and stock springs.

I read online that for 98 Toyota went to a all aluminum motor that was lighter than the 96-97 year Corolla. I have searched and reviewed the suspension threads and they are great for showing all the options but I have a few questions?

Tokico lists the HP from 93-01 as the same shock part number so the shock valving was no stiffer for the lighter weight new motor?

Since I have the 3SGTE swap with a front mount intercooler and my motor is cast iron cylinder block I think the older spec 93-97 car suspension that had the older heavier motor would work much better than my 98 spec suspension I have now?

From searching the 1ZZ-FE engine weighs 225 lbs? and my 3SGTE engine and tranny is about 350 lbs. i don't know how heavy the stock Corolla 5spd tranny is 80 lbs.? totaling around 300 lbs.? and how heavy is the 1.8 liter 7A-FE engine?

I have tried comparing springs rates as I assume the 98-01 spec springs were lighter kg than 93-97 but does anybody actually know? Theoretically I would like to retro fit the older suspension in the car as I think it's better rated for my extra front end weight.
I have KW V3 for my Supra TT but that is to much money and over kill for my Corolla, I just want springs and shocks with a light drop and nice ride quality. Does any one know if the older spec springs fit my upper shock mounts etc.

Thanks,
Mark

[Press22]

Maybe look into Tein H tech springs.
Not a huge drop but are good springs,

[PhatRoyale]

The suspension on the 1998-2002 is essentially a carryover from the 1993-1997 Corolla. All suspension components are interchangeable between the 7th and 8th gens. The stock setup on the 7th gen sucks too and you would waste your time and money trying to swap stock suspensions. If you want a better setup that reduces body roll, just get Tein S-Tech springs (from the 8th gen Corolla) and pair them with Tokico HP struts. If you additional stiffness, get the TRD front strut bar and pair that with an aftermarket front and rear sway bar kit with upgraded bushings from Hotchkis.

One thing to note is that all lowering springs use progressive rates, so if you are concerned with stiffness, then invest in something better like Ground Controls and Koni Yellow strut inserts. There are plenty of suspension options out there for these two generations of Corolla, but if you want to get into a full blown coilover setup, you're looking at minimum $1000 or more for a decent setup from Tein, Cusco, JIC, etc.

[Schubeedoobee]

I am wondering what the consensus is on fuel mileage for everyone here?

my corolla seems to not be doing as well when I compare it to my old first corolla that I had a few years ago... what kind of fuel mileage is everyone here getting

[fishexpo101]

You have both swaybars on your 1998? Some of the earlier 1998 Corolla VE models were sold without the front swaybar - would make for a lousy handling car.

As for suspension upgrades - almost any performance spring and strut setup to add to the car will improve its handling, given how "soft" the OEM spring setup is. If you swapped in a 3SGTE + transaxle, that front end of the car is now a good 150-200lbs heavier (just the E-series transaxle alone is close to double the weight of the OEM 1ZZ-FE transaxle) - doesn't even take into account the weight of the 2L iron block 3SGTE.

You are fighting an uphill battle here. Options are to completely gut the car, weld up the chassis seams, and move weight around to balance out the weight distribution. To help lessen the impact of understeer - you'll have to soften front suspension / stiffen rear suspension, or soften front tire grip / increase rear tire grip. Depending on how badly the weight shift forward is, you might have to run a staggered tire setup (larger/wider tire) in the rear to increase rear grip.

Actively, you have to change the way you drive - smooth steering inputs, trail braking, balancing acceleration in turns - all help reduce the impact of understeer.

[work1]

I checked that and I do have both front and rear sway bars. wouldn't a car with a heavier motor come with stiffer valve shocks and heavier rate springs? not softerin the front? I would like more oversteer as it curently feels front end heavy and plows?

I was thinking Tokico HP with Eibach prokit or Tein H tech springs, I'm also going to relocate the battery into the trunk.

I am ordering some Work wheels from Japan, I want them flush with the fender as well as a taller od as in 5th gear the revs are to high with my currrent 175/65/14 tires. The MR2 od on the rear was 23.9"

I was thinking CR Kai 16x7 +35et with a 195/5016 tire which has a 23.7 od?

[fishexpo101]

The weight distribution difference between the 7th and 8th gen are minimal, compared to other generations. Plus they are "economy" cars, so you should not expect the manufacturer to fully customize spring rates/valving rates. Only one that is different is the 7th gen Corolla Wagon, which does use a slightly heavier rear spring - but otherwise identical to the sedan.

Tein H.Techs are only marginally stiffer than stock, Tein S.Techs have a greater drop, but do not scale the spring rate (hence they still ride softly even with the 2"+ drop). Eiback Prokit would be a slight step up from the Teins (spring rate wise). H&R springs are every stiffer spring and one that I'd recommend with that much weight up front. Especially if you want to push the face of the wheels out inline with the body - you'll want a heavier spring to maintain that clearance. Make sure to match the shock valving to the spring rate and suspension drop. Tockico HP work well with drops up to 1.8" (as spec'd by them), you could run them lower, but risk shortening their lifespan. Might be a better idea to upgrade to an adjustable strut - Koni, Tockico Illumina, KYB AGX, etc.

Relocating the battery to the trunk should help out with weight distribution, especially if you stay with the OEM weight or upgrade to a beefier battery. As for wheel overall diameters, don't mess with it too much - unless you are running some EMS setup to account for the difference in tire diameters - you'll want to pick a wheel diameter that gives you less clearance issues.

Work Emotion CR Kai is a sharp looking 5-split spoke wheel design. I'd do some photochopping work to make sure such a strong wheel design doesn't overshadow the soft bodystyle of the 7th gen Corolla (assuming you have the stock body, no body mods). If you have or plan on a body kit -then anything goes.

[PhatRoyale]

Eibach Prokits were discontinued a long time ago. Pretty much almost impossible to find now.

If you want your wheel flush with the fenders, then you want to get at least 7.5" wide with that offset. Maybe even 8 if you don't mind rolling your fenders and doing a small pull.

With that wheel width though, you'll want to run 205/45/16 tires for proper fitment. CR Kai's are great wheels. Great choice.

[fishexpo101]

Discontinued for the ZZE110, ouch - that's too bad, they were a good setup. Their Sportline ones are still showing a valid SKU - with the Sportlines having more of a drop than the previous Prokits.

We haven't even touched upon coilover setups yet either - depends on what budget the OP was thinking of.

[work1]

You are correct the style is kinda strong, plus it shows the ugly drum brakes to much. I distribute Work wheels and I have been to Japan many, many times for TAS and have been to 5 of the Work factories so that's definatley what brand I am choosing. I thought about Equip 3 piece in 15" but they look alittle old school and small, plus they are not ideal for winter use? any other Work ideas?

The only other thing I know is that H&R list two different springs for the Corolla 93-97 #54688 & 98-01 #54691 so they thought something changed enought to bother making new rates when the motor switched.

[plu]

Just throwing this out there...Bilstein struts have a different part number for the rear struts of the 93-97 Corolla and for the 98-02. But they both have the same part number for the front struts. I run Eibach pro-kit springs(93-02) for my 98 Corolla. I found that the rear struts for the 98-02 didn't fit. Had to return them and buy 93-97 Bilstein rear struts to work. The rear struts have different heights. I don't recommend Bilstein struts though, they ride just like KYB GR2 and my front driver's side one has blown around 40,000 miles making clunking noises on bumps.

[work1]

Thanks, what year is your car?

[Bdub215]

Originally Posted by work1

You are correct the style is kinda strong, plus it shows the ugly drum brakes to much. I distribute Work wheels and I have been to Japan many, many times for TAS and have been to 5 of the Work factories so that's definatley what brand I am choosing. I thought about Equip 3 piece in 15" but they look alittle old school and small, plus they are not ideal for winter use? any other Work ideas?

The only other thing I know is that H&R list two different springs for the Corolla 93-97 #54688 & 98-01 #54691 so they thought something changed enought to bother making new rates when the motor switched.

1995 Toyota Corolla 54688
Front and Rear fitment
Ride Height: Moderate Lowering
Avg Low 1.25"F 1.25"R


1998 Toyota Corolla 54691
Front and Rear fitment
Ride Height: Moderate Lowering
Avg Low 1.3"F 1.25"R

Well the Rear didnt change and the front did. so H&R must have changed the spring rate to compensate for the new motor. both cars i'd bet probably settle around the exact same height.

Here's what H&R's and KYB's look like on my car