Car starts fine at all times no problem there.
After started the car idles weird, its not consistent bounce its sparatic and up and down and all over the place but never above 1,200 rpms.
When put in drive the car stumbles extremely bad, like I have to pump the gas pedal ALOT ( 2-3 times a second) to even keep it moving. Then after a little bit (3 mins) the car starts drives semi normal, The acceleration is very poor and seems like its lost at least 30-50 hp.
When you floor it the car lacks power alot, but at 70% throttle the car feels fine, but you can still feel it holding back.
I have replaced the MAF, and the Spark Plugs, the Plug wires (Edit: Coil Packs) look brand new, Everything else appears fine and VERY clean the engine only has 60k miles on it.
I have no CEL except for P0300 earlier (random misfire thing or whatever...) But i changed the plugs and erased the codes and no codes since and the car still does all this stuff stated above.
Plan on seafoming the tank and running higher octane gas to see if it clears anything up. <<This was me at first... This is me NAO>>>
Please Suggestions...
If any other information is needed please ask... will be checking thoroughly...
I'm confused on one thing, you're saying it's a 2001 'rolla but plug wires look OK. 2001's have 4 individual coil packs, with no plug wires, at least if it's the original 1ZZ-FE engine. Or are you outside North America? Having said all that, if it's a coil pack, you SHOULD have a cylinder specific misfire code, perhaps along with the random/multiple P0300. If you do indeed have plug wires, I'd start with a new set, as they rarely show a defect on a visual inspection.
Otherwise, I'd compression test the engine to be sure all is well mechanically, then look at the fuel supply. Did this start happening suddenly on it's own, gradually over time, after filling the tank? Could be something as simple as water in the fuel, possibly from storage? I'm only guessing here with 60K miles on an '01.
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The Following User Says Thank You to landphil For This Useful Post:
I understand it had no 'plug wires' persay and has individual coil packs, didn't really think I'd have to get that specific.
But yes this problem started almost suddenly.
To be totaly honest this is my friends car, and he does not know how to do research very well.
So that being said....
This ALL started after he put a Spectre Short Ram Intake Setup on his car.
But he threw away his OEM box....
So now we has this problem.
And the code shown was a P0300, so there is brand new Spark plugs in the car right now.
It just runs like a chicken with its feet tied to its neck.
As stated in the first post.
But he now put it in the shop to have it looked at, so Idk... will keep you updated.
That you for your suggestions and feel free to offer more, always willing to understand more about a car from
a person who knows more about the car than me. =)
If this intake has the oiled air filter element, it's important not to over oil the element. Too much oil will contaminate the MAF sensor and cause trouble, maybe check the MAF sensor wires(do not touch them) and clean with MAF cleaner. I know you said it was a new MAF, but it too could have been contaminated by too much oil in the filter.
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The Following User Says Thank You to landphil For This Useful Post:
There is no idle bounce.
And the MAF sensor is BRAND new, the Air Filter is Spectre (I know it sucks) but it doesn't have to be oiled.
Its a performance issue for sure. My friend took it to the shop, and they basically said they couldn't tell me anything cause they weren't qualified to tell me anything about it... so much for that shop getting my business.
So my friends having the codes pulled again to se if anything new can light a way to this diabolical mess.
* The car has put itsself in limp mode, in case that will help anyone to help me figure this out. *
1.) TPS is fine.
2.) MAF sensor fine + Connections.
Ahh sorry, I see you said it wasn't bouncing. I've seen people have trouble with Cold Air Intakes, usually not a bad MAF, but how the MAF handles the change in air flow. The ECU is programmed for the factory setup, so the MAF will compensate, sometimes negatively. Best bet is remove the Spectre, if the problem goes away you know whats up.
The Following User Says Thank You to leakyseals For This Useful Post:
You could have an intake vacuum leak from a bad intake manifold gasket.
If you spray carb cleaner around the intake manifold while the car is idling, and the car idle changes (starts choking or revving), it's definitely a leak.
The Following User Says Thank You to pdq For This Useful Post:
Those codes are likely MAF/spectre related. Easiest thing to do is get that thing off there for a while. If the factory intake resolves it, then you know its the spectre setup, where the MAF is in relationship to the filter, airflow, etc. My friend had one, he reconfigured the MAF to mount closer to the filter, fixed it.
Last edited by leakyseals; 11-18-2011 at 06:03 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to leakyseals For This Useful Post:
I will try moving the MAF closer and further seeing if that will change anything. At the same time I'll tell my buddy to start saving for a "Real" short ram intake ( K&N, Injen, etc.)
So really what your trying to tell me is that is a Air\Fuel Ratio problem probably mostly because the MAF sensor is reading the air intake wrong, thus putting to much or to less fuel in the injen making it run like a piece of junk?
The only way to be sure if this is coincidental ( Maf went bad, damaged, etc) rather than a poorly designed aftermarket intake Is to:
***Reset and recalibrate the ECU with both of these steps. With a code reader or disconnecting and reconnecting the battery then drive for approx 50-60 miles, starting engine approx 5-10 times. Thats enough for the ECU to calibrate and lights should stay out.
1) Verify MAF sensor is faced the right way and the distance to the air filter is the same. (look at factory air tube).
If the CEL codes come back...
2) Put factory air intake tube back.
If the CEL codes come back...
You know to replace or try cleaning the MAF or an o2 sensor, etc. Where things get tricky. You can clean the MAF with MAF cleaner. Do not use Throttle Body cleaner or anything with a lubricant, it leaves a residue which prevents the MAF from operating correctly. When cleaning a MAF there are 2 areas, the bulb, and up underneath a few prongs. Just spray, avoid wiping it if possible, fragile. If you can get the o2 sensors off without breaking them, you can try cleaning them as well. O2 sensors are not as fragile, use TB cleaner followed by MAF cleaner.
The Following User Says Thank You to leakyseals For This Useful Post:
po 171 is a lean run conditiopn,intake leak or maf sensor.what do you hope to gain by modifing this engine with bolt on parts? any gain isn't worth the expense or aggrvation. buy a car that was built to go fast
What size is the intake piping? The ecm is set for the maf to read a specific size intake diameter to read certain air speeds. I'm betting the size of his piping is too large and it's reading lean. (I had this on mine for a while without my tuner and the car would only accelerate with power at 3/4 throttle or less. At full throttle it would lean out. Measure the piping size...I had to make my own MAF tuner to run 3" intake piping with the stock intake piping.
The Following User Says Thank You to Quick2000 For This Useful Post:
@stylesabu = There is also a P0300. I know you don't gain much from bolt on parts, but maybe we cant afford a faster car... take your flame elsewhere I'm here for real advice.
@quick2000 = its 3" intake piping. The MAF sensor is located like 1-2 inches from the
filter opening. Also Looked at it and the MAF sensor hole is located right
in the middle of the intake piping (adapter plate that came with it).
@pdq = I did the carb cleaner everywhere around the engine, Nothing happend at all
no change in idle everything stayed the same... except the problem didn't go
away lol.
So heres what its doing exactly.
1.) Start the car and the idle is fine. But on the other hand the Air filter is extremely loud. And you can here it suck in quick bursts of air, but its not a constant burst its sporadic bursts of hissing (sucking in air)
2.) When you floor it in Neutral and hold it its a really low bog for 3 seconds then it revs up.
When you push gas half way it does the same thing.
3.) When stopped at a red light and you try to take off (regular driving) the car struggles to gain speed and acting like it doesn't even want to go anywhere then finally fixes itself and goes.
4.) once the car is going around 30+ if you press gas pedal to the floor then it acting like someone put a cloth over the air filter and struggles to go, but with 3/4 throttle its fine and drives normal.
Codes are P0300 and P0171.
New Parts: MAF sensor brand new and connections are fine.
and theres brand new spark plugs in there, iridium ( the kind thats suppose to be in there.)
And there's no vacuum leak and there's no intake manifold leak.
and the gas tank has been Sea-Foamed.
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