2000 Corolla won't start

[jawstech]

2000 Toyota Corolla won’t start. Leaking oil at head, pulled PMP. Shaved head, reworked valves, replaced gaskets, head bolts, timing set, belt and water pump. Two weeks, balancer came off coasted to stop. Replaced all valves. Have spark, 160psi comp., injectors firing but car sounds like timing off 10 deg. Cam, crank sensors, coil pack, plugs and computer changed. Any other ideas?

[fishexpo101]

Need a bit more information, as it could be a number of things.

How much did you shave down the head?

How did you rework the valves - did you cut down the valve seats like most other cars or just cleaned them up?

Did you reset the VVTI, ie. engage the locking pin with the tape and compressed air procedure?

Where exactly was it leaking at the head - as this is pretty unusual for this generation unless it overheated or suffered some other catastrophic event - could have been a blown o-ring on the timing chain tensioner - as that can hemorrhage enough oil to look like a head leak,

Any difference between wet and dry compression tests? 160PSI is a little low after doing all that work.

[CelicaGuy13]

Originally Posted by fishexpo101

Need a bit more information, as it could be a number of things.

How much did you shave down the head?

How did you rework the valves - did you cut down the valve seats like most other cars or just cleaned them up?

Did you reset the VVTI, ie. engage the locking pin with the tape and compressed air procedure?

Where exactly was it leaking at the head - as this is pretty unusual for this generation unless it overheated or suffered some other catastrophic event - could have been a blown o-ring on the timing chain tensioner - as that can hemorrhage enough oil to look like a head leak,

Any difference between wet and dry compression tests? 160PSI is a little low after doing all that work.

Agree

Do a compression test. TAKE NOTE OF THE FIRST compression bump in the reading and the 4th bump during the test. BOTH READINGS COUNT. Wet and Dry

[jawstech]

Head was shaved by machine shop, they said they removed verry little. Car has never been ran hot. After balancer came off valves were damaged. All valves, guides, and seats were replaced by same machine shop. They are a performance machine shop and I have used him for years good guy. Leak was at back of engine 4-6 inches fron left hand side of car facing engine. Car has 106k on motor , o-ring not blown at chain tensioner. Compression test was done cold,spun 3 seconds, for each cylinder. Vvti sensor was broken at machine shop and replaced with new one. Vvti was locked and could not get it advanced with air. Removed it and did it by hand have not reinstalled cam since I am looking for more answers before putting it back together for the seventh time. One other item not mentioned. I have been in touch with the east coast electrical expert for Toyota. He gave me 29 pages of instructions to check electrical problems. Car passed all test except last one.On 4th pin of coil pack plug,test light should flash when car is spun over,it does not. Book says replace computer which I have replaced twice with one from running cars. Thank you for your time and patience,since mine is about gone. jawstech