Hi,
After wiring a power sub-woofer cable to the trunk, 2000 Corolla CE idles so bad in drive it feels like its literally shaking itself to death. I've felt rough idles before, nothing like this. Throttle body and MAF are recently cleaned. No CEL's. All was fine. Assumption is during the attachment of the power cable to the back screw of the positive terminal post, I disabled power for a while even though it was still connected to the battery. Removing the new power cable from the post to test produces the same result. Anyone experience extremely rough idle after battery disconnect in 98-00 years? If so, how long did it take to re-learn? or is it something else?
It will take a few drive cycles for the ECM to "relearn" fuel trims and other parameters that got wiped after you disconnected the battery. No worries - that is normal. Some cars run about the same, some run poorly - depending on how far off the parameters are from the preprogrammed initial values.
Just drive the car like normal, will relearn pretty quickly. If it doesn't improve after a couple of days of driving - then look into the usual suspects for a poor running engine. Disconnected or cracked vacuum hose (possible one that was removed to make way for running power through the firewall), check for fouled sparkplugs, make sure no other ground wire was removed or damaged during the installation.
Also have to guard against adding a ground loop by accident - as these engines are pretty sensitive to electrical noise. Easiest way to check is to use a multimeter and probe for voltage between ground points (should read zero millivolts) - if there are instances of reading hundreds of millivolts or even volts between ground points - you'll have to do some more digging to see what is causing that.
Thanks. Hope its just a relearn, its still very bad, the whole interior shakes and rattles, your teeth literally clatter. Only been since last night. For the amp ground I attached to a existing bolt that sticks down near where the rear speakers are. All metal in that area. Maybe theres a coating I need to scratch off, used a spare metal nut to tighten up, should be ok. The power wire was able to snake through the crash-wall via an existing grommet hole, next to a wire. The power cable is thick with a very thick cover. Came as a kit. Has a fuse installed along the power line in case of any trouble. It was pretty easy to run the power line under the door running boards, Cant imagine damage to any of the other wires that were there. Final config is not near any vacuum lines, wire goes between air box and fender to battery. I did attempt to go under the air box initially, think there are vacuum lines there so I better check and see if I knocked anything off.
The weird thing is the roughness continues after acceleration till about 20-25mph.
Last edited by leakyseals; 12-01-2011 at 01:18 PM.
Shaking sounds pretty bad. Can you remove power to the amp ckt easily to see if that may be the culprit?
I did that right after this started suddenly, was the same. Yes its bad, so bad you feel as if your going to break down. Someone knowledgeable experienced it last night saying mounts motor/tranny are bad. I would agree with that but the onset was so sudden. I need mounts right after adding a wire for amp power?
Something important - I have never actually removed the + battery connector from the lead post. Just behind the connector is a nut where various power sources connect. While adding the amp power, I could see lights flicker, minor sparking, so clearly some circuits lost power for as long as 20 mins.
I'm wondering if I should actually disconnect at the post, wait, reconnect so everything is reset evenly. Or.... see how today (day 2) goes, may recalibrate today..
The car is still in a VERY bad way after 2 days of driving. I have a hunch, please let me know what you guys think, if the info is accurate, etc.
Symptoms: The car idles fine. OK in reverse. In drive, stopped, foot on the brake its tearing itself apart (feels like). Acceleration up to 20mph the awful shaking seems to continue, very strange. I can't describe it. different than a bad idle, almost as if all the mounts failed at once.
Hunch: The positive + cable has a circular battery post connector, and another nut to add various power cables. Adding the additional power cable at that nut I could have disrupted power to reset the engine settings, not the electronic transmission, or vice versa. Result is is an improperly disengaged clutch, grabbing and shaking the engine violently stopped at a light, slow speeds, etc.
Reasons: This 2000 Corolla has an electronically controlled 4spd od transmission that relies on engine speed/rpm data to set clutch engagement for park, reverse, drive, shifting, etc.
Before I disconnect the battery completely for a half hour, starting calibration all over again, is the above possible, or am I wrong?
Ok...looking like a coincidence that minutes after adding a power wire to the battery for a trunk amp/sub a motor mount failed...Reluctantly heading towards the mounts scratching my head....Its not a rough idle its a really bad vibration...
How can I figure out which one it is? Looks like there are 4 and a tranny mount, all different types of configuration.
Neutral and reverse is perfect, park bad but not awful. Drive real bad, acceleration up to 20 real bad.
Would the mount(s) getting downward pressure in drive be the likely culprits?
Someone help this guy out! Bump I can't help but to laugh really hard when I've read "the whole interior shakes and rattles, your teeth literally clatter." sorry dude, but it's funny as hell. Please help this guy out.
You could brake torque the engine to see if the mounts are torn up more in one direction than the other - should be able to tell with the hood up, sitting inside the car, or have someone give you a hand.
Have you tried it in the other gears - L, L2, O/D off, etc.? What happens when you increase/decrease the load on the engine (turn A/C on and off, etc.)? Check fluid levels in the transaxle? Last time you had the transaxle serviced? Have you had the PCM scanned for pending trouble codes? Might try resetting the PCM via the scanner - sometimes more effective than disconnecting the battery. If you do the battery trick, stomp on the brake pedal or turn on something electrical to kill off any residual power in the capacitors.
Might try resetting the PCM via the scanner - sometimes more effective than disconnecting the battery. If you do the battery trick, stomp on the brake pedal or turn on something electrical to kill off any residual power in the capacitors.
What about pulling both batt leads off and touching them together for a complete discharge of the system?
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I can't help but to laugh really hard when I've read "the whole interior shakes and rattles, your teeth literally clatter." sorry dude, but it's funny as hell. Please help this guy out.
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