The Damage:
I recently turned on my 2000 Corolla to hear the dreaded "Something's turning into an expensive pile of iron filings" sound. Shortly after, Suddenly my power steering became a lot noisier. Fluid level was fine, and adding more didn't help. About a day later, I lost all accessory power. Opening the hood revealed my serpentine belt hanging limply off the alternator and a wobbly and free-spinning power-steering pulley.
The Parts:
This gets confusing as there are a number of production splits for the 2000 Corolla. There is only one part number (per the dealership) for the pump assembly with reservoir. 4432002034. Note that this breaks down into a ton of smaller parts, none of which is an intact power steering pump. The are multiple possible substitutions. Good luck getting the OEM combination that fits. Someone correct me (and the local dealership) if I'm wrong.
In the aftermarket things make (a little) more sense.... I was able to work this out after a lot of digging around and after receiving a wrong pulley from Napa Autoparts which I was assured would work.
If you have:- A car manufactured before 01/2000 (check the tag on the driver's door) with an unstamped pulley
then you need: - Pump: Cardone part # 21-5129 or equivalent (Can't find OEM #)
- Pulley: OEM Part # 44311-02040 or aftermarket equivalents: RB300402 or (unverified) W0133-1692987 (Pulley)
If you have- A car manufactured during or after 01/2000 (check door tag, VIN doesn't tell you) with an unstamped pulley
Then you need:- Pump: Cardone part # 21-5618 or equivalent (Can't find OEM #)
- Pulley: OEM Part # 44311-02040 or aftermarket equivalents: RB300402 or (unverified) W0133-1692987
If you have:- Any 2000 Corolla with a pulley stamped with "02080"
Then you need:- Pump: Cardone part # 21-5618 or equivalent (Can't find OEM #)
- Pulley: OEM Part # 44311-02080 or aftermarket equivalents: W0133-1693036
Note: I'm a little confused at how the 21-5618 replaces both bearing and bushing style pumps. I guess the difference in offset with the 02080 vs 02040 pulleys (below) makes it work. I've read in another forum (but do not have confirmation) that there is a difference in shaft length between 21-5129 and 21-5618) making them non-interchangeable as well. The breakdown from the dealership schematic suggests two possible shafts in the pump assembly so this is probably true.
The reason I covered this in (nauseating?) detail is that I was sent a wrong part and
had to do the job twice! Napa autoparts in Canada only stocks one pulley, which is the same as the 02040 and DOES NOT replace the 44311-02080 pulley. This is what I was originally told would work (Dec 1999 vehicle with 02080 pulley), and discovered that it sticks out about 1/4" too far to line up with the serpentine belt properly.
Final note: The nut to attach the pulley is NOT INCLUDED. Mine was a 12mm extra-fine threaded lock nut with a flange (19mm socket). This will NOT be in your local hardware store, so you're going to have to special order it from either a bolt supply shop or an auto parts website. It's only a couple dollars, but not having it is a major pain!
Required Tools:- Socket wrenches: 3/8" and 1/2" drive
- 24mm deep socket (or 22 depending on vehicle) and minimum 10" 1/2" (I used a 10" plus a 4") extender to remove the pressure hose bolt. If you don't have these, buy them.
- Other sockets (probably in any toolbox) 19mm (pulley nut), 22mm (belt tensioner) 14mm (mounting bolts, return hose bracket), 12mm (return hose attachment), 10mm (plastic bash plate on bottom of car). Note: these are from memory and may not be 100% Bring the whole toolbox rather than cursing me later.
- 14mm box/crescent wrench for mounting nuts (behind pulley, socket will not fit)
- Vice grips (for the hose clamp on the PS return hose)
- Pin spanner (makes life easier but not required)
- Pry bar (the p/s pump mount is TIGHT and removing the pump requires "encouragement")
- Cheater bar (something to fit over the wrench handle to increase torque. I used my jack handle)
- Jack and Jack Stands, wheel blocks. DO NOT attempt without proper jack stands as a lot of time is spent with your body under the car.
- Drain pan. This will be messy.
Procedure:
1)
DISCONNECT the battery! Cars CAN and DO start unexpectedly especially if a remote start system is installed. Save your fingers.
2) Remove the serpentine belt: Locate the belt tensioner and stick a wrench with some kind of handle extension on it. Pull it towards you (to the front of the car) and slip the belt off the alternator. Release the tensioner SLOWLY. Fish the (now loose) belt out of the engine compartment.
3) Loosen the front passenger lug nuts before jacking up the car, then place the car on jackstands, block the rear wheels and activate the E-Brake. If you have a vehicle lift (then I hate you just a little bit) you can use that instead. Remember DO NOT work under a car that is supported by a jack. Use the stands.
4) Remove the passenger side wheel
5) remove the plastic bash-plate/mud guard from the bottom of the car on the passenger's side. It's held on with several 10mm bolts.
5) Locate the power steering pump. It's the rearmost and lowest pulley, right behind the crankshaft pulley, and has two lines coming from it, one rubber and one with metal fittings.
6) Place the drain pan under the car beneath the PS pump
7) Locate the return hose (best done from above. it's the black hose connected to the pump by a simple hose clip) and use the vice grips to pinch open the clip. Pull the hose off keeping the clip in position (easier to reinstall later) then let go of the clip. Power steering fluid will empty from this hose. Try not to get it on the engine (it will smoke A LOT) and try to hit the drain pan.
8) Locate the pressure hose. This is a complicated-looking y-shaped brass fitting. There's a wire coming from the engine connected to the top of it (pressure sensor). Disconnect this wire. Place the 24mm (or 22mm?) deep socket and extension over this fitting from above and remove it. The deep-socket is necessary to fit over the pressure sensor without damaging it and you'll need the extension to have any room to turn the wrench. Retrieve the copper washers above and below the high-pressure hose. You should replace these but can re-use them in a pinch.
9) Remove the mounting bolts on the power steering pump. Use the 14mm crescent wrench (and an assistant) to hold the nuts, and turn the bolts from underneath the car using a 14mm socket wrench. They may take a bit of force to get started but it's more than doable. Push the bolts out with a screwdriver from the other side if they won't back off after the nuts are removed. There are no internal threads.
10) Use the bry bar to pry the pump out of the P/S mount. I found the best angle near the bottom of the pump. Be careful not to damage anything!
11) Remove the parts you want to keep from your pump (the rest of the pressure fitting, held on with a 22mm banjo bolt and the pipe the return hose is connected to)
12) Add these parts (and new copper gaskets and O-rings if you have them) onto the new pump. Torque the pressure fitting bolts to spec.
13) Install the pulley onto the new pump (either the old one if you could save it or a new one if you couldn't) Torque the pulley nut to spec. You can use a pin spanner or improvise your own (ratchet extensions in the mounting bolt holes through the pulley spokes) if you don't have one.
14) Replace the pump into its mount. I found I was able to get the top half in easily and had to hammer the buttom into place from above after inserting the top bolt. Tighten the bolts.
15) Reconnect and re-torque the pressure hose fittings, and reconnect the return hose.
16) Replace the serpentine belt. Follow the routing diagram if you have one. I can add one to this post later if anyone is unable to find their own. Run the belt over everything except the alternator pulley, pull the tensioner the same way you did to remove the belt, and slip it over the alternator pulley, then slowly release the tension. The belt should be aligned properly on all pulleys.
16) Make sure everything is reconnected and refill the P/S fluid to the hot-max line.
17) check for obvious leaks and wipe up stray fluid.
18) Reconnect the battery
19) Start the engine (with the car still jacked up) and move the steering back and forth once or twice. Watch the P/S fluid level. You'll need to add more. Do this until you can move the wheel nearly all the way to the stops (2 turns over each way) without the PS fluid level dropping or the pump making noise. You might see some smoke from stray spilled P/S fluid. Note that the correct fluid is "Dexron 3" or equivalent.
20) Re-check for leaks, wipe again. Tighten any fittings if necessary. Replace the plastic cover under your car and the passenger-side wheel.
21) Test drive.
Closing thoughts:
This project took me WAY longer than it had to because I put off buying the correct tools (particularly the deep socket and 10" 1/2" drive extender) and I received a wrong part. The second time around (with the correct pulley) it took less than two hours to remove the incorrect pump/pulley and install the new one.
Successful DIY - 2000 Corolla Power Steering Pump and Pulley
Linear Mode
