DIY: Oil Consumption Fix - Page 10 - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
8th Generation (1998-2002) Specific discussion of the 8th generation

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#136 Old 02-25-2013, 03:58 PM
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Valve jobs for our cars is expensive because we dont have hydrolic lifters. Inspect the seats and valves. If its minor pitting, clean the valves on a brass wire wheel and lap them into the seats with lapping compound. If the pitting is real bad, it will require cutting by a machine shop. Don't forget to check the head for flatness.


2000 CELICA GT
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#137 Old 02-25-2013, 04:20 PM
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Reading more on this, now im a bit nervous to lapping the valves. Looks like changing the lifters will be a pain. Can i just perform a leak test, and if it passes, just skip lapping the valves?


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#138 Old 02-25-2013, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larsonhelm View Post
Cylinders out of round? I THINK this will require them to be rebored, new pistons,.. mo' money. How do you know they are out of round? Any idea how much? What did you measure with?
What kind of budget are you on?
I was just asking a general question, I haven't taken it apart yet. I just wondered if it was common since I am not planning on doing any boring, just a hone.
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#139 Old 02-25-2013, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 01corolladan View Post
I was just asking a general question, I haven't taken it apart yet. I just wondered if it was common since I am not planning on doing any boring, just a hone.
I doubt the piston will be "out of round". Just give it some good cleaning and drill in new holes (an enlarge the already existing holes). Boring is needed if you get new pistons.

I was planning on lapping my valves to the seats if they were mildly pitted. I assume lapping will throw of the valve clearances. Is there a guide anywhere on here on how to adjust them? I assume the bucket lifters need to be changed to different sizes am i right?


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#140 Old 02-26-2013, 06:09 PM
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The cylinder walls get out of round, not the pistons. As in worn wider in the middle than at the top and bottom of the cylinder, which is why most cylinders need bored.

Lapping valves shouldn't require replacing any other parts. If you have to grind too much then you will just have to replace the valve.
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#141 Old 02-28-2013, 02:11 PM
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I,m not sure if this has already been adressed so I'm sorry if I am double posting. I am talking about the cross member being in the way. It only takes about 15 minutes to get it out of the way if the bolts aren't fused to the metal. Taking it completely off would involve propping the engine up and removing driver side engine mount or dropping the whole sub frame which IMO is too much for what we are trying to achieve here. Here is what I did.

1)take off the splash shields underneath the car.

2) locate the cross member and then the two 14mm bolts that connect it to the frame (the front where the bumper is) and take those off.

3) There is an oval shaped slot right next to the bolts you took out, inside of it you should see 2 more. They connect to the front motor mount. Take those out.

4) Follow the cross member to the back right by the oil pan. You should see about 5 17mm nuts there. Take them off. Now if you pull down on the front of the cross member it will act like a lever. However it will not come out because if you look, one bolt will not let it that's attached to the back motor mount.

5) take a jack and a block of wood and find someplace to jack the engine up as much as it will go without raising the body. I used a sturdy part of the tranny right by the sub frame by the firewall.

6) now if you pull down on the cross member you should see the back motor mount lift and there should be a slot between it and the sub frame. Use pry bars if you need to. Wedge something into that space. I put a broken off piece of 1/2 extension in there. Lower the jack, the motor mount shouldrest on whatever you have in there.

Now just pull down and swing the cross member over to the drivers side wheel. That's it, now the oil pan is free and clear. There may be better ways of doing this but that's what I did.

It should be fairly easy, my 2001 corolla went from 50k to 160k as an every day delivery vehicle in Buffalo,NY so taking into account all the driveways the snow and the salt, it is amazing how well those bolts come out without the need for torches etc. If someone needs pics I can provide. I just stared on this project, thank you for this great article!
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#142 Old 03-02-2013, 10:02 AM
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Great guide! Unfortunately, I can't do this work myself.
Any idea how much it may cost to get it done? My Corolla CE 1999 burns too much oil, and it's getting worse.
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#143 Old 03-02-2013, 12:04 PM
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If you can't DIY do what the person you bought it from did. Sell it.

02 Camry XLE 2AZ-FE 332k M1 HM 5w30
99 Avalon 95k PP 5w30
13 Malibu 16k PP 5w20
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#144 Old 03-02-2013, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leakyseals View Post
If you can't DIY do what the person you bought it from did. Sell it.
I have this car since new and take good care of it. I won't sell it until it stops running but would like to fix the oil consumption.
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#145 Old 03-05-2013, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01corolladan View Post
The cylinder walls get out of round, not the pistons. As in worn wider in the middle than at the top and bottom of the cylinder, which is why most cylinders need bored.

Lapping valves shouldn't require replacing any other parts. If you have to grind too much then you will just have to replace the valve.
I have seen no sign of any cylinders being out of round. To be honest I haven't measured for it but when you can still see all the original cross hatches I wasn't worried about it. These motors, when taken care of, apparently don't ever wear out.

I have not done any valve work on any of mine, other than removing and cleaning up the valves. It has not been a problem and I would consider my cars higher mileage. If you get into valve lapping you will probably have to replace the bucket style lifters to get the valve clearance back in to spec. It is possible to machine the valve stem to compensate for the lapping but that ends up being a lot work too. Just make sure the valve clearance is in spec when you are all done.

Current DD - '06 Jetta TDI 5 Speed

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#146 Old 03-07-2013, 09:56 AM
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Bennie,
Can we get an update on your build(s) oil consumption. Type of oil your using, weight, " Xqts per thousand", etc. And would you be open to experimenting with "other" oils on your build(s)? I have some ideas if your interested.

02 Camry XLE 2AZ-FE 332k M1 HM 5w30
99 Avalon 95k PP 5w30
13 Malibu 16k PP 5w20
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#147 Old 03-07-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by leakyseals View Post
Bennie,
Can we get an update on your build(s) oil consumption. Type of oil your using, weight, " Xqts per thousand", etc. And would you be open to experimenting with "other" oils on your build(s)? I have some ideas if your interested.
Great questions leaky, I'm sure you saw my post in a different thread that covers some of it so I mostly copied that:

I have fixed 4 1ZZFE's that had the oil consumption problem.

#1: A '99 I fixed in the spring of '08 with 218K miles on it at the time. My brother is currently driving that car. It now has 330K+ miles and burns an insignificant amount of oil. He does not ever need to add oil between changes but it does consume a little bit.

#2: A '00 with 166K in summer of '11, it was crashed before 15K miles were even put on it but it consumed no oil.

#3: A '98, the actual car used in my (this) write up and my daily driver. 265K at time of fix. Currently I'm at 291K. I can't emphasize enough how it burns NO oil. I have gone as many as 8K miles between oil changes and there is no measureable/visible amount of oil level change. If I went 30K miles on an oil change* MAYBE I would see it drop a millimeter.


*30K OCI not recommended my me.


#4: A '01, 220K miles. It's a forum memberís car and he is reporting no consumption at all. We did it in Sep. '12. Not sure how many miles he's put on it.


I have bounced around a little and gone as high as 8K miles between changes (which was approved by Blackstone labs) but I think I will settle in at 6K OCI. I use only NAPA Gold filters. I was using Mobile1 5W30 for a long time but now switched to Mobile1 0W30 and have been running that for about 3 OCI now. I noticed no difference between the 2.

I am definitely open to running something else. What did you have in mine?

Current DD - '06 Jetta TDI 5 Speed

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#148 Old 03-07-2013, 11:11 AM
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  1. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20. Thats right M1 HM 5wTWENTY. Its a brand new creation from XOM. Walmart just started selling it in jugs. Being a HM oil its got all the bells and whistles like extra wear adds and seal conditioners. 5w20 is a narrow range meaning less adds, less shear. Should be a very tough "high 20, low 30" oil. Good economy, good test for your fixes.
  2. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. The thinnest 5w30 with some pretty amazing wear numbers.
  3. Toyota genuine motor oil (TGMO) 0w20. One of the thinnest but its one of the best 0w20's on the market with a VI of 214!
  4. Pennzoil platinum or Mobil 1 0w20's. Nothing exciting here other than if you can run them, your fixes are real good, from gaskets and seals to rings to hone was perfect.

All are 7-10k oils on the second OCI. I never go long after a switch until the coating of the new oil builds up again.

Also, heres an interesting "Oil Life Monitor" tool being developed. Its using some of the math/algorithms of various OLM's.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...ng&pli=1#gid=0

02 Camry XLE 2AZ-FE 332k M1 HM 5w30
99 Avalon 95k PP 5w30
13 Malibu 16k PP 5w20

Last edited by leakyseals; 03-07-2013 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Added OLM calc
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#149 Old 03-07-2013, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leakyseals View Post
  1. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20. Thats right M1 HM 5wTWENTY. Its a brand new creation from XOM. Walmart just started selling it in jugs. Being a HM oil its got all the bells and whistles like extra wear adds and seal conditioners. 5w20 is a narrow range meaning less adds, less shear. Should be a very tough "high 20, low 30" oil. Good economy, good test for your fixes.
  2. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. The thinnest 5w30 with some pretty amazing wear numbers.
  3. Toyota genuine motor oil (TGMO) 0w20. One of the thinnest but its one of the best 0w20's on the market with a VI of 214!
  4. Pennzoil platinum or Mobil 1 0w20's. Nothing exciting here other than if you can run them, your fixes are real good, from gaskets and seals to rings to hone was perfect.
All are 7-10k oils on the second OCI. I never go long after a switch until the coating of the new oil builds up again.

Also, heres an interesting "Oil Life Monitor" tool being developed. Its using some of the math/algorithms of various OLM's.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...ng&pli=1#gid=0
Holy crap leaky, that like 2 years worth of oil changes. If nothing else I will have proven that my car is reliable.

So what do you think, (2) 6K OCI on each oil?

Current DD - '06 Jetta TDI 5 Speed

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#150 Old 03-07-2013, 01:31 PM
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Yeah. I left one out. The 08 GP 3.8 series III in my signature is running Pennzoil Ultra. Its the smoothest, quietest engine I've owned in many years new or used. Was not that way at purchase. Was shaky and rattly. No startup ticks, not one single vibration now! Your GP should get a taste of that. Maybe the Corolla too.

Considering what you said (how long it would take to compare them all) going with same weight, different brand relative to whats in there now would be a good idea. The Pennzoil Platinum or the top of the line Pennzoil Ultra 5w30's makes sense to go first because its a head to head test against the M1 5w30 your using now. SOPUS vs. XOM.

Then from the SOPUS go back to the XOM side testing the "boutique" XOM oils like M1 HM 5w20 or TGMO 0w20.

02 Camry XLE 2AZ-FE 332k M1 HM 5w30
99 Avalon 95k PP 5w30
13 Malibu 16k PP 5w20
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