I have a problem with a 1998 Toyota Corolla I just purchased and I'm sure there is a member on here who can help me out. For reference, the car does have an aftermarket alarm, it is not functional as the car didn't come with any remotes - I just saw the horn under the hood and the wiring that's hooked into it. Upon purchase, the door locks were behaving as outlined below.
1 key turn in driver door unlocks front driver door (mechanical).
2nd turn barely unlocks rear passenger door (via power). No other locks pop.
All behavior is the same on passenger side (with the exception of needing the second turn).
Door switches also do not operate locks other than rear passenger sometimes moving enough to lock/unlock (basically the same as the using the key in the door). All locks but driver do respond to the signal from integration relay (I can hear it clicking and see slight movement on the lock knobs).
I pulled some actuators off another '98 at the junkyard and replaced the driver rear actuator. It now works flawlessly. Being excited to get them all working, I pulled apart the driver door, disassembled everything and hooked up the "new" actuator. Tried the passenger switch (as I had tested the rear door) and nothing happened. Plugged in the driver master switch, nothing happened. Tried the extra front passenger actuator on the driver plug the same way. Nothing.
I'm going to replace the passenger front actuator today hopefully, but that doesn't help fix the driver door issue - which will be important when I (or the shop) puts in the keyless entry system. Any ideas or diagrams to help me out? I have a really nice factory diagnosis page for my Tacoma (door switch test, actuator test, key switch test) but nothing like it for the Corolla.
I also tested the plug without the actuator attached (with my test light), and the only one that lit was the one at the end (either pin 1 or 6).
Please ask me for any clarification. I will also try to get some photos, because the wiring harness at the door switch looked really weird when I was in there.
I'll be watching for a response here, since I lost my driver front actuator last night while replacing an exterior door handle. Actuator is most likely fine, i think there's a wiring fault somewhere.
Don't mean to hijack your thread, I just think we'll both end up at the same solution. My situation is identical except that I'm only down one actuator; I don't think your aftermarket alarm has anything to do with it.
It's common for these cheap actuator motors to burn up after 5 years or so, to where they don't have enough power to drive the gear mechanism and push the lock mechanism up. I bought a Mabuchi (I believe was the brand name) replacement motor for 5 bucks on Ebay, cracked the actuator assembly open, and swapped the motor out. It was a bit tedious, but definitely a cheap repair.
Here are the tests you should do:
1. Put passenger lock in unlock position. Push passenger lock button.
2. Put passenger lock in lock position. Push passenger unlock button.
3. Put passenger lock in unlock position. Push driver's side passenger lock button.
4. Put passenger lock in lock position. Push driver's side passenger unlock button.
You can repeat this for the other problematic doors.
If the result of #1 == #3 and #2 == #4, you probably just need a new actuator assembly or motor for that door. If they are different, it's a wiring/relay issue, which is beyond my knowledge.
In my case, all my actuators are nice and strong. The one that's not working now was working perfectly until I replaced my driver side door handle last night. I replaced the passenger side handle, as well, with no issues, that actuator still works.
Turning the key (driver side) locks or unlocks all doors, as expected, so I know the switch part of the actuator is still good. Manually locking or unlocking the driver side door, however, does NOT have any effect. Only the driver door locks or unlocks when I do this, where it used to trigger all the other doors to lock or unlock along with it.
I think this is also an accurate description of OP's problem, though I'm open to correction if I'm wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdq
It's common for these cheap actuator motors to burn up after 5 years or so, to where they don't have enough power to drive the gear mechanism and push the lock mechanism up. I bought a Mabuchi (I believe was the brand name) replacement motor for 5 bucks on Ebay, cracked the actuator assembly open, and swapped the motor out. It was a bit tedious, but definitely a cheap repair.
Here are the tests you should do:
1. Put passenger lock in unlock position. Push passenger lock button.
2. Put passenger lock in lock position. Push passenger unlock button.
3. Put passenger lock in unlock position. Push driver's side passenger lock button.
4. Put passenger lock in lock position. Push driver's side passenger unlock button.
You can repeat this for the other problematic doors.
If the result of #1 == #3 and #2 == #4, you probably just need a new actuator assembly or motor for that door. If they are different, it's a wiring/relay issue, which is beyond my knowledge.
Manually locking or unlocking the driver side door, however, does NOT have any effect. Only the driver door locks or unlocks when I do this, where it used to trigger all the other doors to lock or unlock along with it.
Can you please clarify what you mean by "manually lock"? If you mean the interior rocker lock switch on the door panel, then you are correct, there is an issue. If you mean manual as in pushing down the lock rod/rectangular "knob", for lack of a better word, then this is normal, at least compared to our 2001. I don't know if the're all the same, but perhaps you switched to a newer handle assembly?
And was it a new or used handle assembly?
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1. I'm understanding that the -key- unlocks first the driver door, then all other doors. This is normal and does not rely on the power relay to drive the driver door lock actuator - it's a mechanical function driven by the key turn. My car is behaving this way.
2. Manually pulling the plastic knob in the door should still unlock the door mechanism, unless you missed that linkage - that will lock you in your driver seat (although you wouldn't know unless someone *key locked* you in from the outside). My car unlocks and locks via the plastic knobs - I assume yours still does as well.
3. If the driver or passenger door electrical switch (or key fob) unlocks everything but your driver door, we have the exact same problem. I believe that on first press this should always pop all doors - that's how my Tacoma and Solara behave. The funky part is (correct me if I'm wrong) that this requires two electrical signals from the integration relay - 1 for the driver (always operates on its own) and 1 to the other 3.
Next time someone pulls their door panel, could they take a photo? I have two wiring harnesses in there - one plugging into the master switch and one that is unplugged with heavy gauge white and black wires (about 8 of them). I have no idea what the second plug is for and if it is even a factory installed item. It looked odd to me and the wires seem to terminate where the main cable run splits to the door switch and to the lock mechanism.
Back to the original question, does anyone have the cool .pdf of Toyota's troubleshooting methodology? It would show what pins to feed power to and what pins on the switch should have continuity under various conditions (i.e., "lock" depressed, "unlock" depressed).
I am referring to the "knob", not the rocker. This has always locked all doors along with the driver door (though I don't recall now if they all would unlock with it). The rocker, be it driver or passenger side, locks or unlocks all doors except the driver door. Using the key in the driver door unlocks all doors, since the key unlocks the driver door and the actuators unlock the others (on the 2nd turn of the key) -- or locks all doors. Using the key in the passenger door locks or unlocks all except the driver door. All doors except the driver door lock when I put the car in gear and all except the driver door unlock when I shut it off.
Regarding the handle, I didn't switch out the entire assembly, just the exterior handle itself. I replaced both front handles and both handles were new from the same manufacturer. The passenger side actuator works fine.
The driver side actuator was working fine right up to the point where I replaced that handle, so I'm wondering it I f'd something up while I was doing that. It's more work than I'm willing to do to pull the assembly out just to inspect it (replacing handles is EASY by the way), but I'll pull it to replace it if I'm 100% sure that's where the problem resides.
srkovarik, don't forget to chime in to let us all know if what I'm describing applies to your situation, as well. I'm curious just how similar our problems are. And guys; can we try to help srkovarik out a bit, too? This is his thread, afterall, and I really am not trying to hijack it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by landphil
Can you please clarify what you mean by "manually lock"? If you mean the interior rocker lock switch on the door panel, then you are correct, there is an issue. If you mean manual as in pushing down the lock rod/rectangular "knob", for lack of a better word, then this is normal, at least compared to our 2001. I don't know if the're all the same, but perhaps you switched to a newer handle assembly?
It's common for these cheap actuator motors to burn up after 5 years or so, to where they don't have enough power to drive the gear mechanism and push the lock mechanism up. I bought a Mabuchi (I believe was the brand name) replacement motor for 5 bucks on Ebay, cracked the actuator assembly open, and swapped the motor out. It was a bit tedious, but definitely a cheap repair.
Here are the tests you should do:
1. Put passenger lock in unlock position. Push passenger lock button.
2. Put passenger lock in lock position. Push passenger unlock button.
3. Put passenger lock in unlock position. Push driver's side passenger lock button.
4. Put passenger lock in lock position. Push driver's side passenger unlock button.
You can repeat this for the other problematic doors.
If the result of #1 == #3 and #2 == #4, you probably just need a new actuator assembly or motor for that door. If they are different, it's a wiring/relay issue, which is beyond my knowledge.
1. Locks all but driver door (if all are unlocked).
2. Unlocks all but driver door (if all are locked).
3. There is only one button on the driver side - locks all but driver door (if all are unlocked).
4. There is only one button on the driver side - unlocks all but driver door (if all are locked).
Basically everything works under all conditions (manual key use, manual "knob" actuation, passenger or driver electrical switch use) with the exception of the driver door never functioning when attempting to use electrical power for unlock.
Critical note: I did plug the passenger actuator into the driver plug prior to installing the new "used" actuator on the driver side. Neither the fresh driver or passenger actuators worked. The same passenger actuator (non-functional on driver side) was subsequently installed on the passenger side and works flawlessly. I believe that pretty strongly rules out the actuator itself being the issue.
Help, this sucks, and will make my keyless entry install 100% useless.
PM me your email address, I can hook you up with FSM t-shooting. Might be a day or two, but I'll get it to you.
The quick referance chart says if only one actuator does not work, it's the harness or the actuator. With three different actuators you've tried, I would suspect the harness, namely at the door hinge area, where it gets repeated bending. This is referring to srkovarik.
Does your car have power windows? If not, maybe the unused harness is related? Again, srkovarik.
KeMbro2012, is there a chance you accidently unplugged the actuator or pulled the harness while you were inside the door? That's also the first I've heard of the doors locking by pushing the "knob" down, our 2001 never has since we've had it, but it was used. Maybe others can chime in, and what year is yours?
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"The thing about quotes on the Internet is you can't confirm their validity"
Oh... that's our one difference, I have the factory installed VIP security. I don't think that plays into this, at this point, but I suppose time will tell.
I plan on taking it apart a bit more this weekend to figure it out, if a solution isn't otherwise found before then.
That's what the tech at my local dealership suggested (hunt for the broken wire). The weird part is that my test light lit when depressing the passenger rocker - pin 1 (or 6) of the driver harness that plugs into the actuator.
This is the corresponding pin I fed hot juice from the battery to on the passenger side actuator (when completely uninstalled) - presto!, the actuator was activated (when grounding pin 2). Very confusing. Maybe there is a very weak power signal that can't drive the actuator. Would low amperage kill actuators?
As for the mystery harness, I have a feeling it is not factory. I do have power windows, and that wiring is completely integrated with the lock harness. The wires are probably 14 gauge as opposed to all others being 18 gauge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by landphil
The quick referance chart says if only one actuator does not work, it's the harness or the actuator. With three different actuators you've tried, I would suspect the harness, namely at the door hinge area, where it gets repeated bending.
Does your car have power windows? If not, maybe the unused harness is related?
Got power windows here and there's an unused harness strapped to the window/lock wires on the driver door. The window and lock wiring all plugs in to the same harness, so the second harness has to be for something else.
I'll try jiggling wires and otherwise messing with the harness while repeatedly pressing the unlock button (hopefully I don't burn out an actuator doing that, but they're all but useless to me if they don't all work, anyway, so, meh) and see if i can get anything out of mine. srkovarik I wouldn't try this if you know your actuators are all good, let me risk mine this weekend and I'll let you know what I find.
I'm also gonna disconnect the VIP and possibly disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the ECU, I understand that the lock electronics interface with the ECU at some point to know when to lock/unlock when the car is put in gear or shut off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by landphil
PM me your email address, I can hook you up with FSM t-shooting. Might be a day or two, but I'll get it to you.
The quick referance chart says if only one actuator does not work, it's the harness or the actuator. With three different actuators you've tried, I would suspect the harness, namely at the door hinge area, where it gets repeated bending.
Does your car have power windows? If not, maybe the unused harness is related?
That's what the tech at my local dealership suggested (hunt for the broken wire). The weird part is that my test light lit when depressing the passenger rocker - pin 1 (or 6) of the driver harness that plugs into the actuator.
Don't forget you need ground as well as power to complete the circuit. Since these are two wire actuators, the power and ground get reversed to reverse the function, ie lock or unlock. I'll get that emailed to you soon.
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"The thing about quotes on the Internet is you can't confirm their validity"
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