Big transparent bucket
Funnel
Pliers
Oil pan
Floor jack
3 gallons or so of your favorite transmsission fluid
1: Slide pan under transmission & disconnect transmission line. Line is kind of located below the transmission dip stick/fill tube/throttle body and right behind the radiator/fan assembly.
2: Jack up car, pull rubber line out from the bottom, adjust jack height and place line straight in to the bucket.
3: Start car (this is where remote start is extreamly handy). The transmission pump will start pumping the fluid out in to the bucket. It flows pretty fast. Let it go until you hear it start to sputter then shut off the car.
4: Look at the side of the bucket and see roughly how much fluid was pumped out. Add roughly that much new fluid in the fill tube.
Repeat steps 3 & 4 until the fluid being pumped out looks perfectly clean.
5: Reinstall transmission line and lower car back to the ground.
6. If you have any desire to use a transmission addative add it now. Otherwise, start the car, let idle and top off the transmssion fluid. This will take a little while to do. Shift the car though the gears while idleing and let it warm up to operating temp. The fuild level should be checked with the car running, in park, at operating temp & level. Double check fluid level after the car has been driven for a day or two.
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'98 Prizm 4spd 272K bought @ 221K for $300 Oil consumption fixed @ 265K for $247
'99 Prizm 3spd 318K sold to brother 1/2012
Last edited by Bennie; 02-08-2012 at 06:23 PM.
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I did the same thing before but I did step 3 and 4 simultaneously. That was hard to do as I couldn't keep up with the amount the transmission was pumping out.
Hey thats cool!. Please tell me why I should not be scared about running out of fluid in the transmission while its running.
You should be! Not extreamly scared but scared enough that you shut it off when you first start to hear it sputtering. It will continue to pump out quite a bit more fluid but, as soon as I hear it sputtering I shut it down. It would be very hard to burn up a transmission in park but if you actually did run it dry on fluid it would start to create heat & heat is the number one thing that kills transmissions. When a transmission is in park the torque converter, pump, input shaft and some clutches are spining. No clutches are engaging. Clutches are what burn up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yuko
Nice DIY
I did the same thing before but I did step 3 and 4 simultaneously. That was hard to do as I couldn't keep up with the amount the transmission was pumping out.
As Yuko stated above, doing 3 & 4 at the same time is the perfect way to do this *except* you will never keep up with the pump.
If you felt more comfortable with it you could simply do 2-3 qt. at a time.
This method of flushing is what transmission shops used to do before thay had their fancy expensive machines.
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'98 Prizm 4spd 272K bought @ 221K for $300 Oil consumption fixed @ 265K for $247
Nice! I really like how you used that 5 gallon? bucket - need to find myself something like that.
I used to use gallon sized containers, but had to keep an eye on the hose to prevent it from popping out and hosing down my garage or worse, have the container kick out from under the hose. Now I use a closed drain pan and an extension hose.
But that larger container you have would be perfect - heavy enough to stand on its own under the flow of transmission fluid and have an opening tight enough to trap the hose.
Thanks fishexpo101, and yes, 5 gallon bucket. If you can get things lined up just right you can even have the tube aimed at the side (inside) of the bucket so you can see from the outside when the fluid goes clean. That, and simply seeing when the bucket is full are the 2 reasons a transparent bucket is nice.
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'98 Prizm 4spd 272K bought @ 221K for $300 Oil consumption fixed @ 265K for $247
Hey guys,
I know it feels like Im resurrecting an old thread but I got mixed info on doing tranny work.... so to start, I have a 01 corolla LE 4spd and I did 2 tranny drain and refill and now it has 160k miles. So my question is should I just do a full on flush as stated here in this thread and would I need to do a pan drop and replace filter? Reason I ask is there are some people saying that we dont need to do a filter replacement but just a simple flush and your good to go...
Thanks for your time.
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Well, since Stealth resurrected this thread, let me ask a question, too. This cat on youtube does a flush, but instead of starting and stopping the car, he just keeps adding fluid while the car is running and pumping the old stuff out until it runs only with the new clean fluid. I like that idea a bit better, frankly. Any comments on that? Here's the link.
Well, since Stealth resurrected this thread, let me ask a question, too. This cat on youtube does a flush, but instead of starting and stopping the car, he just keeps adding fluid while the car is running and pumping the old stuff out until it runs only with the new clean fluid. I like that idea a bit better, frankly. Any comments on that? Here's the link.
Well, since Stealth resurrected this thread, let me ask a question, too. This cat on youtube does a flush, but instead of starting and stopping the car, he just keeps adding fluid while the car is running and pumping the old stuff out until it runs only with the new clean fluid. I like that idea a bit better, frankly. Any comments on that? Here's the link.
I got a good laugh out of this. Good video but the usual "TV" editing. If any of you have done this you know that the 8 seconds it took for the fluid to go clean is a joke. Also, I'm not quite sure how he figures it cheaper do the flush twice instead of just using the right fluid the first time.
I personally like to disconnect the hose returning to the transmission because then you are flushing the cooler as well. No compressed air needed. It's great to see everybody's methods though so you can all make your own educated decisions! If you end up with 100% clean fluid and you didn't break anything then you did it right!
As far as adding fluid while the car is running it's a great idea, give it a shot. You can see in this video how fast the fluid if flowing though, so trust me, it's a lot easier said than done.
stealthTRD, The reasons I'd recommend dropping the pan are to not only replace the filter but also to clean the pan & the magnet in the pan. If that has never been done at 160K miles I'd for sure do it.
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'98 Prizm 4spd 272K bought @ 221K for $300 Oil consumption fixed @ 265K for $247
'99 Prizm 3spd 318K sold to brother 1/2012
Last edited by Bennie; 03-11-2012 at 09:44 AM.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Bennie For This Useful Post:
Thanks for your input, Bennie. I was hoping you'd respond. Good stuff! Just on question, though. Are you saying that you disconnect a different hose than the guy in the video?
Last edited by Hummarstra; 03-11-2012 at 03:15 PM.
3 gallons or so of your favorite transmsission fluid
I strongly suggest you only use the fluid purchased from the dealer for replacement. I changed the oil using Canadian Tire same spec fluid and the tranny missed and slipped now and then, so when I replaced it with Yoyota fluid, the probem went a way. And the cost of thhe Toyota fluid was chaper than the local store!! The same is true for Chrysler cars now.
Good Luck
Thanks for your input, Bennie. I was hoping you'd respond. Good stuff! Just on question, though. Are you saying that you disconnect a different hose than the guy in the video?
Yes,
The guy in the vid disconnected the outgoing line from the transmission (before the radiator) and had to used compressed air to force the old fluid out of the radiator and back to the transmission (and in to the trans pan he had just filled with clean fluid). If you disconnect the line I show in the pic it's the return line (coming out of the radiator and going back to the trans) so the radiator get's flushed right along with everything else.
Basically just pull the line I show in the pic and you're good.
__________________
'98 Prizm 4spd 272K bought @ 221K for $300 Oil consumption fixed @ 265K for $247
'99 Prizm 3spd 318K sold to brother 1/2012
The Following User Says Thank You to Bennie For This Useful Post:
Hummarstra: yes, the guy disconnects the hose coming from transmission, so that leaves the cooler still filled with old fluid. Bennie's method is to use the hose coming out of cooler and going to transmission. That way you will flush out the most fluid.
Bennie: Can you confirm that it's possible to pour new fluid in the funnel fast enough to maintain the safe level for operation? Also, how much time does it take for corollas to pump out the entire fluid?
The Following User Says Thank You to crypticlineage For This Useful Post:
Hummarstra: yes, the guy disconnects the hose coming from transmission, so that leaves the cooler still filled with old fluid. Bennie's method is to use the hose coming out of cooler and going to transmission. That way you will flush out the most fluid.
Bennie: Can you confirm that it's possible to pour new fluid in the funnel fast enough to maintain the safe level for operation? Also, how much time does it take for corollas to pump out the entire fluid?
Its like this example...a drink with ice through a straw...as it gets empty you start to hear that water/air sound...That sound means turn it off! Your not driving/moving so the threat of seizure doesn't exist like it does for the engine even at idle parts are moving in an engine. On the tranny in park nothings moving but the pump. Hope that makes sense
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This cat on youtube does a flush, but instead of starting and stopping the car, he just keeps adding fluid while the car is running and pumping the old stuff out until it runs only with the new clean fluid. I like that idea a bit better, frankly. Any comments on that? Here's the link.
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