In super cold weather, should I give it some gas before starting?
2002 Corolla LE:
We've had some pretty cold weather here in Denver and this morning when I started the car, it was a little hard to get going, then as I started out of the driveway and down the street, it was like I kept giving it gas but it wasn't moving anywhere, and was stuttering and stalling. It threw a code during this ( gotta wait a few days and see if it goes out ) but after some warmup driving it was fine again. Just the first minute or so. It was about 13 degrees when this happened.
In real cold weather, is it a good idea to pump the gas pedal to the floor once, to give it some extra gas to get it started?
Pumping the gas when starting doesn't do anything on a fuel injected car except screw up the computer's reading of air/fuel. That went out long ago with carbureted cars. Just start the engine using the key. Keep your foot off of the gas.
We've had some pretty cold weather here in Denver and this morning when I started the car, it was a little hard to get going, then as I started out of the driveway and down the street, it was like I kept giving it gas but it wasn't moving anywhere, and was stuttering and stalling. It threw a code during this ( gotta wait a few days and see if it goes out ) but after some warmup driving it was fine again. Just the first minute or so. It was about 13 degrees when this happened.
In real cold weather, is it a good idea to pump the gas pedal to the floor once, to give it some extra gas to get it started?
No, it is not a good idea to pump the gas pedal. As a matter of fact you could trigger the clear flood mode, where no fuel will be delivered. This is not a carburated vehicle... You have other issues... Should have your code read as soon as feasible and your fuel trims checked...
Cheers!
__________________
1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns
No, it is not a good idea to pump the gas pedal. As a matter of fact you could trigger the clear flood mode, where no fuel will be delivered. This is not a carburated vehicle... You have other issues... Should have your code read as soon as feasible and your fuel trims checked...
Fuel trims are the minute changes the computer makes to deliver fuel and oxygen in proper amount... They fluctuate based upon the Fuel/Air mixture being detected on your Upstream O2 sensor... They only run in closed loop....
You have Short Term (ST) and Long Term (LT) fuel trims... They should be between 0 and 20.... You check them with a Toyota factory scan tool (about $140 on Ebay) or a high end scanner MODUS, VERUS, SOLUS, etc... (expensive scanners)
Since it was done in open loop (cold car, not to temperature), your code is valuable in determining what may be wrong...
Cheers!
__________________
1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns
Last edited by KarlH; 01-12-2013 at 08:56 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to KarlH For This Useful Post:
When starting a cold car, the engine runs of a pre-programmed "fuel map" which is slightly rich to ensure the car starts (remember, engine is in open loop still) this means that the car has not warmed up and the computer has not been "told" by the engine that everything is ready to go to closed loop (where you get your optimal gas mileage). This is why when a car has a bad thermostat (stuck slightly open) it can lead to bad gas mileage, because the car never gets to the proper operating temperature (or takes a long time) because it is not going into closed loop (engine has to be at proper temperature)..... It just remains in open loop operating off rich fuel maps...I digress...
Again, it sounds like your car was having issues in the open loop when there was a rich mixture being delivered, but was "saved" by the car getting warmed up and going into closed loop and adding extra fuel.... Your car will still run and all, but will get dreadful gas mileage...
The reason I would check the Fuel trims is that after everything got to operating temperature, the computer makes adjustments to run the car right... When it has to add a lot of extra fuel to make it run right in closed loop, then something is wrong and it throws a code (won't go into all the details, but if the Fuel trims get too high, a code will be thrown)... Hence why the car ran fine after it warmed up, but gave you a code.....
Cheers!
__________________
1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns
When starting a cold car, the engine runs of a pre-programmed "fuel map" which is slightly rich to ensure the car starts (remember, engine is in open loop still) this means that the car has not warmed up and the computer has not been "told" by the engine that everything is ready to go to closed loop (where you get your optimal gas mileage). This is why when a car has a bad thermostat (stuck slightly open) it can lead to bad gas mileage, because the car never gets to the proper operating temperature (or takes a long time) because it is not going into closed loop... It just remains in open loop operating off rich fuel maps...I digress...
The reason I would check the Fuel trims is that after everything got to operating temperature, the computer makes adjustments to run the car right... When it has to add a lot of extra fuel to make it run right in closed loop, then something is wrong and it throws a code (won't go into all the details, but if the Fuel trims get too high, a code will be thrown)... Hence why the car ran fine after it warmed up, but gave you a code.....
Cheers!
I've been wondering a little about the thermostat too, now that you mention it. Seems to take an awfully long time to warm up the engine, as if the thermostat might be stuck open a little. I think I have to drive about 5 miles.
And this is the car I spoke about in a thread awhile back, where we got it with about 114k miles and it's been burning oil the whole time ( now 144k miles ). It's using about a quart every 500 miles now. I think someone awhile back mentioned poorly designed pistons & rings in this model. Toyota won't do a thing about it. I don't have thousands to get the engine rebuilt, especially when the local rebuilders all seem to have very mixed reviews.
I've been wondering a little about the thermostat too, now that you mention it. Seems to take an awfully long time to warm up the engine, as if the thermostat might be stuck open a little. I think I have to drive about 5 miles.
And this is the car I spoke about in a thread awhile back, where we got it with about 114k miles and it's been burning oil the whole time ( now 144k miles ). It's using about a quart every 500 miles now. I think someone awhile back mentioned poorly designed pistons & rings in this model. Toyota won't do a thing about it. I don't have thousands to get the engine rebuilt, especially when the local rebuilders all seem to have very mixed reviews.
Well, you could have a thermostat issue, but 13 degrees is pretty darn cold!!! May take longer than normal to get to temp considering conditions in Denver.
It would be a good idea to get your code pulled. All major auto parts stores do it for free if you do not have a code reader... I would not be surprised to see a PO171... I also would not rule out a MAF sensor issue....This is why a Toyota scanner or a high end scanner is essential when doing diagnosis.....
As far as the oil consumption, that is a systemic problem with this engine. Around where I live you can get a low milage junkyard non-VVT 1.8 engine for $550 and a VVT 1.8 for around 900-1000. These cars are relatively easy to swap engines on.... The only big thing that is needed is an engine hoist.... I must get it out now that I hate that Toyota put this VVT engine in 8th Gen Corollas from 2000-2002, just more to go wrong (priced a MAF recently? They weren't on 98's and 99s), more expensive in the aftermarket and all for a net gain of a whopping 5 more horsepower and marginal fuel savings.... JMHO....Once again I digress....
Here is a response I gave in the 7th gen forum to a guy who suspects he has a bad thermostat.....
Cheers!
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlH
First, check your coolant level. Make sure it is topped off. You also want to make sure you don't have air pockets in the system. When thermostats go, they tend to stay stuck open... When you see a bad one when it is removed, you may be surprised to see that it is only open just a tiny bit, hence why your car is eventually warming up, but never getting to full operating temperature (or taking it a while)
To answer a few of your questions... Unless your coolant temperature sending unit is bad (which I doubt), it should not read very low. Also if your thermostat has never been replaced, and you have not periodically flushed the system, then yes.... old age and just wear and tear can make a thermostat go bad....18 years is a long time....
Here are some examples of bad thermostats...(note how wide these are stuck open..)
If your coolant level is fine and takes a significant amount of time to warm and you are getting poorer than normal fuel mileage, then chances are indeed that you have a bad thermostat.
If you suspect an air pocket, or end up replacing the thermostat then an easy way to push out the air/bleed the system is to get a spill free funnel (these are awesome, and make a perfect gift for the mechanic...I use mine all the time!!) To use this, you remove the radiator cap, use the adapter on the spill free funnel to attach to radiator inlet and pour coolant in the funnel. Start the car and turn the heat on high and the system will suck the coolant in. When the heat blows hot and the radiator stops accepting coolant, turn off your car, remove the funnel (using the stopper in the kit to keep the coolant from leaking) and then replace the radiator cap.
I would advise doing a bleed first with the spill free funnel, if you still have this issue, then look at replacing the thermostat....
Thanks for the post. Well I'm talking about a long warmup time, even when it's 40 outside, so...
As far as swapping the engine, I suggested that to a a local acquaintance who works on his own car, but he said that it can cause a mis-match with the transmission and mess things up with that too. But he may have been talking about manual transmissions, I dunno. This is automatic.
Thanks for the post. Well I'm talking about a long warmup time, even when it's 40 outside, so...
As far as swapping the engine, I suggested that to a a local acquaintance who works on his own car, but he said that it can cause a mis-match with the transmission and mess things up with that too. But he may have been talking about manual transmissions, I dunno. This is automatic.
Partially true....
If you switch across from vvt to non vvt you will have to change wiring harness and computer.
If you switch transmissions, it will require a different harness and computer.
If you get any 1.8 VVT engine from 2000-2002 you will have no issues...
Cheers!
__________________
1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns
Here's Toyota's response to the oil burning issue. I thought there were lemon laws, but guess they don't cover this.
Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc.
We apologize for the burning oil concern with your 2002 Corolla.
There are no Special Service Campaigns or recalls for burning engine oil or piston concerns with the 2002 Corolla.
The warranty for the engine is 5 years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first. Once the vehicle is outside of these warranty guidelines the cost of repairs becomes the owner’s responsibility. We are sorry; we are unable to offer you any financial assistance towards the repair or replacement of the engine as your vehicle is well beyond the warranty parameters.
We appreciate your feedback. It is through communications such as yours that we become aware of the reactions and expectations of our customers and are able to review and improve our products.
We wish to express our appreciation for your interest in our products and would like to thank you for taking the time to email us.
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In super cold weather, should I give it some gas before starting?
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