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8th Generation (1998-2002) Specific discussion of the 8th generation

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Old 01-16-2013, 01:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need help with P0172 & P0420 codes

Last week I bought my gf a 2001 corolla with 120k miles. It threw two codes while test driving it. it seemed to drive fine with no stutter or hesitation. I thought those codes can be taken care of easily but I guess not.... I replaced the upstream (pre-cat) o2 sensor with a Bosch one from autozone, and cleaned the maf sensor already. I used the right cleaner and it did seem that the maf was dirty as hell. After cleaning the maf i took off the neg battery cable only. I also did this after replacing the front o2 sensor. (On a side note I also replaced valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket.) I checked one spark plug and figured the rest were the same. Clean and looking new. I also noticed that they have a thin electrode. After replacing the o2 sensor and cleaning the maf sensor the car was now stuttering and hesitating mostly after a stop sign or red light from a stop. It is very bad trying to take off, as if you have to pump the pedal to go. She had it checked at autozone and the same 2 codes were still on. This was after the replaced parts were installed. Is there another way of resetting the ecu? What do i need to check? Can anyone help me or point me in a guided direction? I am currently living away from her and might have to make a trip to fix it. I want to have my stuff together obviously before I make a trip.
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Old 01-16-2013, 02:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zran22 View Post
Last week I bought my gf a 2001 corolla with 120k miles. It threw two codes while test driving it. it seemed to drive fine with no stutter or hesitation. I thought those codes can be taken care of easily but I guess not.... I replaced the upstream (pre-cat) o2 sensor with a Bosch one from autozone, and cleaned the maf sensor already. I used the right cleaner and it did seem that the maf was dirty as hell. After cleaning the maf i took off the neg battery cable only. I also did this after replacing the front o2 sensor. (On a side note I also replaced valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket.) I checked one spark plug and figured the rest were the same. Clean and looking new. I also noticed that they have a thin electrode. After replacing the o2 sensor and cleaning the maf sensor the car was now stuttering and hesitating mostly after a stop sign or red light from a stop. It is very bad trying to take off, as if you have to pump the pedal to go. She had it checked at autozone and the same 2 codes were still on. This was after the replaced parts were installed. Is there another way of resetting the ecu? What do i need to check? Can anyone help me or point me in a guided direction? I am currently living away from her and might have to make a trip to fix it. I want to have my stuff together obviously before I make a trip.
The PO420 is a common problem on Corollas, your rear O2 sensor is not staying where it should be after the Catalytic converter has gotten to light off temperature... Sometimes it means the cat is bad, sometimes not.... This code was developed to let the driver know that the Catalytic converter was not operating within defined parameters....

The easiest way to check a cat is to run the car to operating temperature and then set the idle at 2500 rpms (I use a matchbook to do this)....

Get an inexpensive laser thermometer (Harbor freight sells a cheap one) and check the temperature of the cat.. Front and back... The exit of the Cat should be 100 degrees Fahrenheit or more hotter than the inlet... If the front is hotter than the rear, then you definitely have a bad cat, that is what the PO420 is being shown for.

You can also test see if you have exhaust blockage (possibly the cat is clogged) by using a vacuum gauge, but that is not what is throwing this code... but is a good backup test...

If your cat is still good, then you can clear the code and some people install an extension plug where the rear O2 sensor screws in... Stops the code from being thrown... This should only be done when you are sure the cat is still good and your emissions are legal.... After you do this, you clear the codes and the PO420 wont come back....

PO420 will not affect drivability, but will cause you to fail an OBDII based emissions testing if you are in a state that requires testing and does not do tailpipe or alternative tailpipe testing.

The PO172 means the front O2 sensor is detecting the fuel mixture being rich...

Check out this thread for more information... P0420 & P0172 codes


A few things... I do not recommend replacing O2 sensors with Bosch... This is one of those cars where Denso's are really the only thing you should use (yes, they are more expensive)

Check the MAF sensor by disconnecting it from the wire harness and start the engine, if the engine runs better you have a bad MAF.... Sometimes cleaning them helps, sometimes it doesn't.

To reset the ECU, leave the battery disconnected for 10-15 minutes, I think it takes less, but more time won't hurt....
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1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns

Last edited by KarlH; 01-16-2013 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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karl, is there anything you dont know
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarlH View Post
The PO420 is a common problem on Corollas, your rear O2 sensor is not staying where it should be after the Catalytic converter has gotten to light off temperature... Sometimes it means the cat is bad, sometimes not.... This code was developed to let the driver know that the Catalytic converter was not operating within defined parameters....

The easiest way to check a cat is to run the car to operating temperature and then set the idle at 2500 rpms (I use a matchbook to do this)....

Get an inexpensive laser thermometer (Harbor freight sells a cheap one) and check the temperature of the cat.. Front and back... The exit of the Cat should be 100 degrees Fahrenheit or more hotter than the inlet... If the front is hotter than the rear, then you definitely have a bad cat, that is what the PO420 is being shown for.

You can also test see if you have exhaust blockage (possibly the cat is clogged) by using a vacuum gauge, but that is not what is throwing this code... but is a good backup test...

If your cat is still good, then you can clear the code and some people install an extension plug where the rear O2 sensor screws in... Stops the code from being thrown... This should only be done when you are sure the cat is still good and your emissions are legal.... After you do this, you clear the codes and the PO420 wont come back....

PO420 will not affect drivability, but will cause you to fail an OBDII based emissions testing if you are in a state that requires testing and does not do tailpipe or alternative tailpipe testing.

The PO172 means the front O2 sensor is detecting the fuel mixture being rich...

Check out this thread for more information... P0420 & P0172 codes


A few things... I do not recommend replacing O2 sensors with Bosch... This is one of those cars where Denso's are really the only thing you should use (yes, they are more expensive)

Check the MAF sensor by disconnecting it from the wire harness and start the engine, if the engine runs better you have a bad MAF.... Sometimes cleaning them helps, sometimes it doesn't.

To reset the ECU, leave the battery disconnected for 10-15 minutes, I think it takes less, but more time won't hurt....
Okay so I the CC. What that fix the bad stuttering after acceleration? Could one of these codes mean replacing both of the o2 sensors? When I cleaned the maf i just sprayed through the intake on those visible strips...Should I have taken it off to clean it? Is there part of the strips farther into the hole?
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by zran22 View Post
Okay so I the CC. What that fix the bad stuttering after acceleration? Could one of these codes mean replacing both of the o2 sensors? When I cleaned the maf i just sprayed through the intake on those visible strips...Should I have taken it off to clean it? Is there part of the strips farther into the hole?
The O2 sensors may be causing the problem, only way to check is to hook up a professional scanner and see what they are doing....a bench test would have to be done to see if they are operating properly and not every shop will do this for you....

Many people try to fix a PO420 with new O2 sensors, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't... That is why diagnosis is important... Or else you can be out $180.00 for two sensors with the same results as before.

Did the PO172 show up after you cleaned the MAF on the car????

The MAF should be taken off before cleaning (only 2X10mm bolts hold it on)....

Also, it is important to clean the area you cannot really see well... The red bulb is actually the IAT (intake air temp sensor)

The outside bulb should be red when cleaned, not still gray and fuzzy, also a q tip can help to clean these when using the proper cleaner....but be very gentle...

The actual hot MAF wires are the ones that are hard to see down in the hole..








Try cleaning again and resetting the codes....

Here is a link with more pics, Just remember only to use MAF cleaner... nothing else

http://matrixowners.com/index.php?/t...f-sensor-pics/



Cheers!
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1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns

Last edited by KarlH; 01-16-2013 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by sonik View Post
karl, is there anything you dont know



Cheers!
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2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Okay ill clean the maf again the right way then. Is there any other way of checking if the o2 sensors are doing there job without an expensive scanner? I already have a scan tool.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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what about unhooking the o2 sensors to see if the problem stays the same? Or does the o2 sensor send bad data rather than nothing at all?
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Is that the right way to get accurate results?
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is that the right way to get accurate results?
Please answer the following questions, doing diagnosis is easier with more detail.....

What is the car doing now after you cleaned the MAF?

What codes are you getting?

Does the car idle fine? If not, disconnect the MAF electronic plug and see if it idles better... Without a scan tool this is the best way to test if your MAF is bad....

Don't disconnect your O2 sensor, you don't know that it is bad.....(and for other reasons...)

Did you get the 172 error after you sprayed cleaner through the Air intake? This spray may have triggered that code....

What I am recommending is to thoroughly clean the MAF, Disconnect the battery cable for 10-15 minutes and start up the car and go for a drive for 20 min or so... Is it throwing any codes still?

Right now, with the information I have, the O2 sensor is a red herring you are chasing down.... You can test O2 sensors with a voltmeter/multimeter, but lets worry about that after you have done what I am recommending.....

Cheers
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1999 Corolla LE-Paid $475 -Replaced Eng-Daily driver!
2000 Corolla CE-Paid $500 -Replaced Eng
1999 Corolla VE-Bought and sold - Replaced Eng/Trns

Last edited by KarlH; 01-17-2013 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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theres another similar thread where gunk from cleaning maf messed up the iac and after cleaning that it worked fine. just an fyi
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KarlH View Post
Please answer the following questions, doing diagnosis is easier with more detail.....

What is the car doing now after you cleaned the MAF?

What codes are you getting?

Does the car idle fine? If not, disconnect the MAF electronic plug and see if it idles better... Without a scan tool this is the best way to test if your MAF is bad....

Don't disconnect your O2 sensor, you don't know that it is bad.....(and for other reasons...)

Did you get the 172 error after you sprayed cleaner through the Air intake? This spray may have triggered that code....

What I am recommending is to thoroughly clean the MAF, Disconnect the battery cable for 10-15 minutes and start up the car and go for a drive for 20 min or so... Is it throwing any codes still?

Right now, with the information I have, the O2 sensor is a red herring you are chasing down.... You can test O2 sensors with a voltmeter/multimeter, but lets worry about that after you have done what I am recommending.....

Cheers
Roger. I will be doing this tomorrow. I will post results from your diagnosis as well tomorrow. I will go through what you said and see how it drives. Would a dirty maf cause the car to have the bad stutter/hesitation after a stop sign or red light?
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Old 01-18-2013, 02:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Roger. I will be doing this tomorrow. I will post results from your diagnosis as well tomorrow. I will go through what you said and see how it drives. Would a dirty maf cause the car to have the bad stutter/hesitation after a stop sign or red light?
Absolutely, a bad MAF will cause a stutter, shake and lack of power and smoothness....
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So I took off the 2 screws holding in the maf from the intake. I looked down where the other 2 wires were and they looked dirty as hell. Cleaned, reset ecu by having neg terminal off for 15 and I'm out driving it. Gone 10 miles so far and only stuttered once very shortly. I did notice increase in power an better idle. I will be driving more and will look out for codes. By how far will I know that that was the problem? 50-100 miles driven? City or highway? Thanks
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Old 01-19-2013, 03:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by KarlH View Post
Please answer the following questions, doing diagnosis is easier with more detail.....

What is the car doing now after you cleaned the MAF?

What codes are you getting?

Does the car idle fine? If not, disconnect the MAF electronic plug and see if it idles better... Without a scan tool this is the best way to test if your MAF is bad....

Don't disconnect your O2 sensor, you don't know that it is bad.....(and for other reasons...)

Did you get the 172 error after you sprayed cleaner through the Air intake? This spray may have triggered that code....

What I am recommending is to thoroughly clean the MAF, Disconnect the battery cable for 10-15 minutes and start up the car and go for a drive for 20 min or so... Is it throwing any codes still?

Right now, with the information I have, the O2 sensor is a red herring you are chasing down.... You can test O2 sensors with a voltmeter/multimeter, but lets worry about that after you have done what I am recommending.....

Cheers
I cleaned it and it still continues to stutter, but only after a red light or stop sign. 25 miles driven and no codes, yet. I had the 172 code before ever cleaning the maf.
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