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1ZZ-FE compression numbers

51K views 16 replies 7 participants last post by  Lærkegaard  
#1 · (Edited)
I'll be adding a few more samples but here is a start:

Measured with Actron compression tester.


1998 Prizm 289K miles, new rings & hone @ 265K miles, burns no oil.

Coolant temp. per scan gauge 163*F

Cylinder #1: 205
Cylinder #2: 195
Cylinder #3: 200
Cylinder #4: 195
________________________________________________________

2005 Corolla 213K miles, all original motor, burns 1/2 qt. oil every 5K miles.

Coolant temp. per scan gauge 177*F

Cylinder #1: 180
Cylinder #2: 165
Cylinder #3: 190
Cylinder #4: 185

more to come....
 
#3 ·
For reference, and to give more consistent and accurate results, I'll post Toyota's procedure on this from the factory service manual for an 02. While the procedure should remain the same, I am not certain if the specs remain the same for the earlier non VVT engines. Judging by Bennie's numbers in the first post above, I suspect they are.

Image
 
#4 ·
Well I've got my valve cover off (look for that thread, some good valvetrain shots coming soon) right now for a thorough cleaning and a coat or two of enamel, so I can't test it warm, but I'll see if I can get my wife help me pull compression numbers tomorrow. I bought a gauge 6-7mo ago and just never got around to it!
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have had several Corollas. Most compression tests were just around 150 lbs to 160 lbs per cylinder while cold. These engines were NOT oil burners.....

As stated earlier, it is the differences between cylinders is what you look for.

Cheers!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks for that, it gives me something to look for. I do plan to do a "warm" test after I get it all back together, as well. I learned the hard way you can't climb down there and drain the oil as soon as you shut it off after a 30min run of redline and WOT, so I figure a compression test should give plenty of time for it to cool :lol:

Update:
Got my cold numbers -- 170/175/171/176

Looks like my compression is good, especially in light of your 150-160 range. I got my valve cover clean-and-paint project done today (pics just finished uploading, so I'll update that thread right away), it's going back on the car Tuesday, but I can't drive it until Thursday, so I can't test it warm until then; I probably won't get around to it until the weekend, anyway.
 
#8 ·
Got my warm numbers yesterday but forgot to post them

171/170/175/176

Not much different than the cold numbers, 3 of them switched around.

When I saw this, I decided to test each cylinder again, and see if the pressure would hold over 5 minutes. The needle didn't move any noticeable amount in the course of 5min, so I think everything's good.
 
#9 ·
Just a tip for you guys...

You also want to take note of the "FIRST" Bump when you're doing the compression test. That one is very very important. It tells you the condition of your valvetrain.

You of course also want to take note of the 4-5bump like you are doing already.
 
#10 ·
For example I have 2 Corollas.

My Silver one was miss firing when I got it. Compression numbers were 180~ in all 4.
My Black one ran fine. It's compression numbers were 190~ in all 4

They are very similar so most people would think that was fine.

HOWEVER:

The Silver one's FIRST bump was about 50-60PSI in each
The Black one's FIRST bump was about 110-120 in each

The problem was in the valve train. One of the cam gears were off a tooth. Readjusted the gear and FIXED!
 
#11 ·
Good point. I didn't think anything of it, actually, but I did note that the first bump on all 4 was about 30psi lower than the 4-5 bump reading. I only actually recorded those numbers because I was being cautious while doing the test with the VC off (it was freshly enameled and still drying) and didn't want to spray oil everywhere. After testing all 4 in the low 140's, I went back and did 4 bumps each to get the cold numbers I reported.

I fully expected the warm numbers to be higher than the cold, but I think I just realized why they weren't. All 4 plug tubes were leaking oil, so that oil drained into the cylinders over the day or so that it sat with plugs out and VC off (covered, of course!) and provided a good seal against the rings. I'm a bit less concerned now that I thought of that.
 
#12 ·
Well I don't want to concern you. The first bump is suppose to be lower than the 4-6th bump.

Here's another example:

--------------------Cylinder1-------Cylinder2-------Cylinder3-----Cylinder4
First bump----------- 110-------------70---------------115----------112
5-6th bump----------190-------------175--------------185-----------180

If you went by just the final bump, then you would think that the compression in this motor is fine. Well it is as far as how high it gets.

But you see Cylinder 2 is wayy lower than the rest when it comes to the first initial bump. More than 15% difference than the others. Therefore you should still suspect something wrong with that cylinder.
 
#14 ·
Right, got that. I wasn't worried about anything. I am glad to know that all my valves are sealing well and in good condition, though.

I don't want to hijack this thread with a timing question, so I'll start another thread for that question, since you may have some insight. I asked it before in one of my other threads and got no replies, but that thread is long buried by now.