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Oil leak - head gasket or timing chain cover?

53K views 82 replies 14 participants last post by  guaitiao 
#1 ·
I was aware of a small oil leak, but I looked into it more while doing my first oil change on my matrix yesterday. I took a picture, but I'm not sure if the leak is from the head gasket or the timing chain cover gasket

 
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#3 ·
Timing chain tensioner o-ring is the most likely cause. They basically all leak.

Do a search for 1ZZFE timing chain tensioner leak.
 
#7 ·
Charlie, I would not worry about it as the drip seems minimal, but we just bought a new construction house. I'm hoping to keep the stains off the garage floor for a while.
Carolnate, I did come across your link yesterday. It's going to be very helpful. Thanks.

Is FIPG sealant the same thing as Permatex Form a Gasket No1? Does only the dealer carry FIPG?
 
#8 ·
I do not recommend FIPG. Others here disagree.

I have done a LOT of these leak repairs. The FIPG just makes the leak repair harder the second time it leaks (it will leak again). Replacing the o-ring works most of the time. One big thing is to make sure the bore is clean before reinstalling.

FIPG is the name for the Toyota gasket maker stuff. If you do end up deciding to use gasket maker, I would use Toyota Black FIPG, Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex Black, or Permatex Gray. FIPG has to come from a dealer or online.
 
#13 ·
Mine leaks after three o ring replacements. So I tried a new o ring again and FIPG. Still leaks. I actually thought my pan was leaking after replacement, but as it turns out, I sprayed it down with brake cleaner while I had it on a lift, and then drove around for a week. I check that Sunday and I can see the oil making it's way down to the oil pan, but not quite there yet. So, I'm done fooling with it. It doesn't lose enough oil to make it run dry, so I'm done with it.
 
#15 ·
Oh, most definitely. The only thing I haven't tried is a new tensioner. The part number has never been updated, or superseded so there's no reason to believe it would fix it. It's pretty frustrating but it's a minor issue. For most cars with 277k the engine would be leaking from every seal. But to have a minor seep is OK.
 
#16 ·
If you still have an o-ring in hand, you could take it to a hydraulics supply shop and get an o-ring that's just a bit fatter... My original tensioner o-ring still does not leak at all at 180,000 miles, and I removed it twice when I adjusted my valve clearances.
 
#17 ·
I replaced the o-ring Friday and had a good bit of trouble with it. After the tensioner flange cleared the top of the bolts, a support was blocking it from coming all the way out. I did read this on any of the searches that I did. I had to tap out the tensioner with a long pole. To get it back in, I pryed a long screw driver between it and the head.The job took much longer than I anticipated, so I haven't had time to clean the oil from under the engine. I think it's still leaking though. I'm going to tighten the nuts a little bit more hoping that the bolts don't break that I have read about.
 
#23 · (Edited)
No, it's been the same. It only lists one part number with no super sessions or alternative part numbers. I also think the tensioner has been the same.

Edit: the tensioner lists three different part numbers. If I decide to try this one more time, I'm going to get a new tensioner, but that's a lot of money to drop of a possible fix.

At first glance, it made it look like my pan was leaking, or my rear main seal had a leak. It had been leaking for a while as far as I know.
 
#29 ·
No, it's been the same. It only lists one part number with no super sessions or alternative part numbers. I also think the tensioner has been the same.

Edit: the tensioner lists three different part numbers. If I decide to try this one more time, I'm going to get a new tensioner, but that's a lot of money to drop of a possible fix.
Thanks, Charlie. I wonder if the different part numbers represent an update, which might include an improved o-ring (perhaps thickness, as Invader has mentioned). I assume that Toyota does sell just the o-ring by itself, right? Is there just one part number for that?

At first glance, it made it look like my pan was leaking, or my rear main seal had a leak. It had been leaking for a while as far as I know.
The tensioner leak can make it look like a rear main seal leak? Not sure I understand, because they are on opposite sides of the engine. This will be good to know, since my rear main seal appears to be leaking. Could a tensioner leak travel across the engine to where the rear main seal would leak? Do let me know. Thanks!
 
#26 ·
I got back under there yesterday. The leak might be worse, but I cleaned up the area and will look again when I get home today. However, I don't think it is coming from the tensioner. Directly below the tensioner seems drier than the areas where I can clearly see the oil running down. By "drier", I mean its hard to tell if oil is there at all. The picture below shows a screwdriver pointing to the part that was blocking the tensioner from coming out easily. What is it and has anyone else had that blocking their tensioner?

 
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