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9th Gen Corolla/1st Gen Matrix (2003-2008) 9th generation Corolla and 1st generation Matrix discussion.

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Old 03-24-2010, 07:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Transmission shifting hard ???

Hi All:

Thanks in advance for any help...

All of a sudden, I noticed my transmission shifting hard through all the gears. Also, coincidentally or not, my CHECK ENGINE light came on this weekend too. I am not saying they are related (last time it happend it was a leaky gas cap), but I don't know.

I have an '05 Matrix XR Automatic with 117,000 miles.

Any suggestions? I am coming up on the 120K transmission service interval. I have always been a little nervous about changing the xmision fluid. On some of my previous vehicle, the car never was quite the same after changing the fluid (granted, they were older pieces of junk).
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Old 03-24-2010, 10:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Need to pull the codes on what is setting of the CEL.
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Old 03-24-2010, 01:06 PM   #3 (permalink)
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120K miles on the original transaxle fluid? Bit on the long side, even for relatively stress free driving conditions.

As long as you do a drain and refill at regular, short intervals, transaxle flushing is generally not necessary. Also depends on the type of transaxle service being done - some flushes run through the dipstick, some through the cooler lines. The best ones run through the pump pickup - which require the transaxle pan to be dropped and the filter assembly removed.

Most owners reported good results with a 30K miles drain and refill schedule. If you tow or drive hard - then dropping it to 15K miles wouldn't hurt. I believe the 2005 models years still spec'd a Toyota Type T-IV ATF, which is a conventional oil base with a specific friction modifier. Still with Toyota Type T-IV or if you go aftermarket, make sure it says in writting - compatible with Toyota Type T-IV.

Transaxle takes approximately 4 quarts with a drain and refill. Assuming the pan hasn't been off the car, good idea to drop the pan and clean/replace the filter inside. Also can gauge if there is any issues with excessive wear - bottom of the pan will have some metal slurry, nothing to worry about - but if there is any larger chunks of metal or metal shavings, then you might have some cause for concern.
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Old 03-24-2010, 08:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I think this the ECU. Does it shift hard from park to drive or from drive to reverse ( whole car jerks) if so its the ECU. Check the code. If its P2716 Solenoid "D" malfunction. Its the ECU.
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ECM reflash??? for P2716

Yes...

the code turned out to be as you suspected P2716. This indicates the ECM issue.

Can the ECM be reflashed, rather than buying a new one for $$$?
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:18 PM   #6 (permalink)
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There is a TSB for the ECM reflash. New program is uploaded to the ECM and you're done.
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Old 03-26-2010, 05:44 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishexpo101 View Post
There is a TSB for the ECM reflash. New program is uploaded to the ECM and you're done.
Yes, but what are the mileage limits? How would this work since his mileage is over 100k?
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Old 05-09-2010, 06:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by fishexpo101 View Post
120K miles on the original transaxle fluid? Bit on the long side, even for relatively stress free driving conditions.

As long as you do a drain and refill at regular, short intervals, transaxle flushing is generally not necessary. Also depends on the type of transaxle service being done - some flushes run through the dipstick, some through the cooler lines. The best ones run through the pump pickup - which require the transaxle pan to be dropped and the filter assembly removed.

Most owners reported good results with a 30K miles drain and refill schedule. If you tow or drive hard - then dropping it to 15K miles wouldn't hurt. I believe the 2005 models years still spec'd a Toyota Type T-IV ATF, which is a conventional oil base with a specific friction modifier. Still with Toyota Type T-IV or if you go aftermarket, make sure it says in writting - compatible with Toyota Type T-IV.

Transaxle takes approximately 4 quarts with a drain and refill. Assuming the pan hasn't been off the car, good idea to drop the pan and clean/replace the filter inside. Also can gauge if there is any issues with excessive wear - bottom of the pan will have some metal slurry, nothing to worry about - but if there is any larger chunks of metal or metal shavings, then you might have some cause for concern.
has nothing to do with the fluid.There are folks assembling for a class action lawsuit on this issue
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Any word on this action???

Unfortunaltely, I have to get an inspection sticker next month, which means I have to have this fixed (to clear the code to pass).
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete_05_Mat View Post
Any word on this action???

Unfortunaltely, I have to get an inspection sticker next month, which means I have to have this fixed (to clear the code to pass).
Here in Canada. We just replace the ECU. There is no reflashing here in Canada.
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:19 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Well, I needed to get an inspection sticker in June, so I broke down and took it in to dealer for repair. I didn't even finish telling the Service Advisor the problem and he knew already it was the ECM issue discussed earlier in this thread.

Of course it was not covered by warranty (too many miles) so I had to fork over $650.00 for the repair.

It works fine now, just leaves a bad impression on Toyota relationship.

Thank all for your help
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Old 07-09-2010, 02:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishexpo101 View Post
120K miles on the original transaxle fluid? Bit on the long side, even for relatively stress free driving conditions.
Add this to what fishexpo sez:

The manufacturers have gone too far making their cars seem like they don't need much maintenance. Honda got burned telling customers to have the valve lash checked at 105k miles on an engine that really needed it at 30k.

Everyone I've met who sees the insides of an automatic transmission on a regular basis says the fluid should be replaced at least every 30k miles, regardless of what the manual says. The manual is set up to get the vehicle through the warranty period, not maximize life.

And the fluid should be changed the right way. No shortcut flushes that can stir up debris. No "universal" swill. Drop the pan and clean it. Change or clean (if applicable) the filter. Refill with the manufacturer's recommended fluid. Do a fluid exchange if the old fluid was in bad shape (not normally needed if done at 30k)
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Old 01-21-2011, 07:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Whatever it turns out to be I'd be flushing that fluid. I just did mine at 85K of pretty light duty driving and there was plenty of crud in the bottom of the pan and in the screen as well. I did a drain, pan drop and refill and then I pulled the return line that comes out of the cooler and attached a clear tube to it using a brass barbed nipple. I ran that tube into a washer fluid jug and pumped it out a half a quart at a time by starting the car. After every half quart I would ad another half quart through the dipstick tube. I did this until I could see it running clean through the clear tube. It's also helpful to make half quart marks on your jug so you can keep close track of how much your draining out.
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