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9th Generation (2003-2008) Specific discussion of the 9th generation

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Old 01-04-2009, 06:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Girlfriend just bought used 07 CE, couple questions!

My girlfriend bought this car about a month ago, and she's brought a few things to my attention. Having never owned a Corolla, however, I've got a few questions myself.

For one, I thought it was odd that the car didn't come with a remote keyless entry system, but she doesn't seem to mind. I guess it's an option, so not necessarily a problem. One problem is that the interior dome light will not come on unless the ignition key is switched to the "on" position.

I was investigating the problem, contorting myself to get my head under the dash to check the wiring (tell me there's an easier way), and I found a disconnected plug. It's a black plug with 5x2 pins, two of which are jumped with a blue wire. The bundle that it's attached to has a loose zip-tie around it, and a thin coax cable with RF connector (SMA?) looped around the zip-tie. This seemed a bit odd, I'm assuming the coax is to connect a wireless receiver to an antenna attached to the car. Would a car that wasn't originally equipped with keyless entry even have that stuff there? It kind of looks like something was removed by the previous owner.

Another issue, recently she was out of town for a few days, and her car sat in the driveway. When she got back, the battery was so far dead that she couldn't shift out of park. I jump-started it, and she drove it for a while. Last week, she just happened to leave it there for a couple days (break from school), and the battery died again. This time, when I tried to charge it, it wouldn't charge. It just showed 12.3V open, and 0 when she turned the ignition on. So...it was shot. Has anyone had similar problems with parasitic drains?

Last issue, and this may be beyond me, but I should ask since I'm here. She's a conservative driver, and doesn't haul much stuff, but according to her calculations she's averaging only 22MPG. When the car is sitting, idling, it seems to burn gas fast enough to notice the needle drop. I think something may be out of tune. Anyone seen this one?

Well, that's all for now. I appreciate any help with this! I look forward to hearing from you other owners. Later.

-Matt
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Old 01-04-2009, 06:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quick follow up: the total current at the battery with everything off and the doors shut is .2725A, which should kill the (new Die Hard Platinum) battery in a little over a week. This doesn't seem right, is this common with new cars?
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Old 01-04-2009, 07:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'll check the drain on my battery with all doors closed and nothing on. The longest mine has ever sat was probably 4-5 days; still on the factory Toyota battery. 22 MPG isn't good. Idling does really kill your fuel economy, but 22 MPG on an '07 CE is uncommonly bad. Even "slow" drivers can really drink fuel when it comes to getting on and off the throttle all the time, varying speed, etc. Driving style has a huge effect on economy. Else, check air filter, tire pressure, etc. Maybe there's a brake caliper or shoe dragging. You may consider pulling each wheel to check the brakes to check for a dragging brake.

As you can see below, I average in the mid-30s with mine for MPG. Mine's a 5-speed, so that certainly helps, but even with an automatic, the car should return 30 MPG at least. Does she let it warm up a lot on cold mornings? That's a sure-fire killer for MPG also.
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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She doesn't idle a lot, and I don't think she leaves it running to warm it up, but I mentioned idling because even I've noticed the fuel needle move. I have a 4.0L Jeep, and I can leave it idling for 30 minutes without noticing the needle move. I know it's not really a scientific observation, highly subjective and inaccurate, I just thought it was a bit odd.

I'd appreciate a report on what kind of current your car draws when it's off, I really don't have anything to compare to. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have any kind of alarm system, so I don't know why it would be using so much current.
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Old 01-04-2009, 10:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Regarding your gas mileage your MAF Sensor may need to be cleaned with a shot of "CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner." See also http://www.autoshop101.com/autoshop15.html#AT
Scroll down to Technical Articles>Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBDII>34 Sensors #4 Air Flow Sensors with questions. Of course depending on mileage on the odometer sparkplugs, etc as mentioned by OP earlier.
Electrical short is beyond me and the online site above may be of use. GOOD LUCK!

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Old 01-04-2009, 11:24 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks! That looks like a good resource to get started. I downloaded the lot, I'll work my way through them when I get some downtime at work. It's probably a good idea to get a code scanner, maybe an ElmScan Bluetooth.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
she's averaging only 22MPG. When the car is sitting, idling, it seems to burn gas fast enough to notice the needle drop. I think something may be out of tune. Anyone seen this one?
Just a thought but make sure she's not always driving with the defrost on, it kicks the AC on when used and in my experience it really lowers the MPG...
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Just a thought but make sure she's not always driving with the defrost on, it kicks the AC on when used and in my experience it really lowers the MPG...
Are you sure about that? The A/C is a separate switch on hers, and the light doesn't come on. My parents have a Highlander Limited, and it turns the A/C on when it feels like it, but the A/C light comes on.
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Old 01-05-2009, 01:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Are you sure about that? The A/C is a separate switch on hers, and the light doesn't come on. My parents have a Highlander Limited, and it turns the A/C on when it feels like it, but the A/C light comes on.
Your AC light won't go on, it's integrated with your defrost system, kicking on to take the moisture out of the air going to your window, open your hood and listen to your AC kick on when someone turns the defrost on, there are threads here on how to by pass this feature! Believe me always running in the defrost setting will lower your gas mileage

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Old 01-05-2009, 02:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Search the Matrix/Vibe site for overriding/disconnect the ac when using the defroster. I don't recall if it would work on our Corollas and entails removing the center console to gain access to the HVAC controls. When using the defroster you would than be able to manually turn the ac on/off.
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by electromage View Post
I'd appreciate a report on what kind of current your car draws when it's off, I really don't have anything to compare to. I'm pretty sure it doesn't have any kind of alarm system, so I don't know why it would be using so much current.
How are you measuring current on yours? (Exactly what do you do to measure it?) I want to make sure I measure mine the exact same way.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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How are you measuring current on yours? (Exactly what do you do to measure it?) I want to make sure I measure mine the exact same way.
I loosened the nut on the negative terminal, and connected a multimeter in series (+ lead to the terminal, - lead to the clamp), then I lifted the clamp off the terminal. I did this so that it didn't surge through the meter. I used a Fluke 179 set for 10ADC. I also measured it with a clamp meter, but it's less accurate, and read between .3 and .5ADC.
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Old 01-05-2009, 06:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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drainage

electromage

Does your Corolla have a new radio/cd player?
Does your Corolla have a new security system install?
Does your Corolla have any additional speakers/amps/subs?

Try to locate the drainage?
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Old 01-05-2009, 10:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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electromage

Does your Corolla have a new radio/cd player?
Does your Corolla have a new security system install?
Does your Corolla have any additional speakers/amps/subs?

Try to locate the drainage?
Factory head unit, no security system AFAIK, no extra speakers/amps/subs. My next step is to figure out exactly what is using the power, I was just wondering if I should bother. If it's a common thing with these cars, I'll figure some way around it, like a Priority Start.
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:18 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by electromage View Post
I loosened the nut on the negative terminal, and connected a multimeter in series (+ lead to the terminal, - lead to the clamp), then I lifted the clamp off the terminal. I did this so that it didn't surge through the meter. I used a Fluke 179 set for 10ADC. I also measured it with a clamp meter, but it's less accurate, and read between .3 and .5ADC.
Thanks, that's what I figured, but I wanted to make sure before I measured and reported a reading. I'll check mine tonight when I get home.
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