I got this from the dealer about my drive belts. What does this mean exactly and how much is the price range on fixing this? Does it mean to replace the entire tensioner? What are my options? I have 05 corolla 59k miles. 6spd manual. thanks.
If your tensioner is leaking that means it's on the way out. I the oe tensioner is pretty expensive. I last time I checked the part itself was around 170.00 from the dealer. Advance Auto parts had them for about half of that. A fairly easy fix if you are mechanically inclined.
__________________ 2005 Corolla LE - Impulse Red - Auto Trans - 1ZZFE - 86,000mi 2003 Echo - Auto Trans - 96,000mi. - slow as dog-dirt - I'd rather put my money in the bank than in the tank!!!!!
If your tensioner is leaking that means it's on the way out. I the oe tensioner is pretty expensive. I last time I checked the part itself was around 170.00 from the dealer. Advance Auto parts had them for about half of that. A fairly easy fix if you are mechanically inclined.
As to the many threads here on this you will find that it's a common problem on the ninth generation corollas, especially the early ones, I bought a replacement tensioner from auto zone for $50, I was surprised when I pulled the old one off that it was the exact same German make as the new one, I guess Toyota was aware of this problem and was suppose to put a improved tensioner on the 05's! As for putting it on, go to the top of the page and hit the search tab, type in belt tensioner, lots of good threads on this subject....I suggest have someone help you if you're going to replace it yourself and you might as well inspect/replace the belt while your at it, gatorback is a good brand...Good luck
I had the same "rattle when cold" sound from my 03 corolla. It would go away when the engine warmed up or if I put the engine in park or neutral. I replaced just the piston on the belt tensioner and the problem was solved.
Here's a possible money and time saving tip since the tensioner part is pretty expensive at about $100-150 depending on where you get it. Also, the work to replace the piston is far less than the work to replace the entire tensioner assembly.
Instead of replacing the entire tensioner assembly, just replace the piston/tensioner part of the assembly and reuse the bracket and pulley. On my tensioner assembly the lower bushing on the piston was worn and allowed the piston to vibrate against the tensioner bracket. From what I've read, this hydraulic tensioner sub-assembly can ONLY be changed on Otics made tensioner assemblies. For INA made tensioner assemblies, you cannot change just this hydraulic tensioner, and you must change the complete assembly and bracket. I believe the Otics was used for models with production year from 4/2002. Check your tensioner assembly to see if the lower end of the piston is mounted with a bolt. If so, you should be able to replace the piston.
You can buy the piston/tensioner on Ebay for about $36 delivered. Some online parts stores also sell the part but for quite a bit more ($80-100). The OEM part is called the tensioner sub-assembly (part #:1660122013) and sells for $95 MSRP. You can get it for $70 from an online OEM dealer or you local dealer if it will match online dealer part prices. A single 13mm bolt attaches it to the assembly.
What's extra nice is that you can replace the piston/tensioner without removing the bracket.
1. First remove the serpentine belt. Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to release the tension. You don't have to fully remove the belt, just undo it from the alternator to take the pressure off the belt and tensioner pulley. Leaving the belt just off the alternator will make it much easier to reinstall. This only makes sense, of course, if you plan to reuse your current serpentine belt.
2. Remove the 12 mm nut at the top of the piston/tensioner.
3. Remove the 13 mm bolt from the bottom of the piston. There's just enough space to get to the bolt head from the back. Now you should be able to pivot the piston and remove it.
4. Install the new piston. You have to put the piston on the upper mounting stud first and then slide the lower end into place and install the bolt. Pivot the tensioner backet to line up the lower bolt. Use thread locker on the bolt and nut.
5. Tighten the nut and bolt. "Prime" the new piston by rotating the tensioner assembly several times like you did to remove the belt. I don't know if htis is really necessary but the TSB tells you to do it when you install a new tensioner. Install the belt and you're good to go.
This will only work if the problem is the piston/tensioner. So if the pulley is squelling, you will have to replace the pulley as well. You can buy a replacement pulley for $15-30 at you local parts store. You can replace the pulley without removing the bracket as well.
Good thinking aspen007, after I put on mine I was wondering why I couldn't go that route and save a lot of trouble, I don't think any of the auto stores in my area sell just that slave assembly! Anyway getting to the price when I did mine last year the cost for the tensioner was under $50 at Autozone and looking at both tensioners org. and new they were both the exact same and they were both made by the same manufactuer in Germany, just checking back with Autozone the price went to over a $100, what the hell happened? Anyway thanks for the good advice!
You're right. I couldn't find the slave/piston assembly at local auto stores either. Also, the online auto stores that did carry the piston wanted $70-100 for just the piston. At that price you don't save much money, but you do save time by replacing just the piston.
The only place I've seen the piston for $36 (including shipping) was on Ebay.
If you run a search for 'Toyota tensioner' on Ebay, you'll see the part.
Takes about a week to get the part depending on where you live.
Also, to be sure the piston is the cause of the noise, press against the piston when the engine is running and making the noise. You should heard a change in the sound when you press on the piston. Just be carefull with your hands around the belt.
Also, to be sure the piston the the cause of the noise, press against the piston when the engine is running and making the noise. You should heard a change in the sound when you press on the piston. Just be carefull with your hands around the belt.
Exactly what I did that's the best way of testing, plus mine had traces of fluid/grease on it! What I was thinking is when I bought my complete tensioner at a lower price I probably could have just swaped the pistons out, oh well you live and learn...
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