I went for engine oil change and tuneup yesterday and got Synthetic oil F1 10W-30. My question is that if my engine had normal oil before, would changing over to synthetic affect my engine? The mechanic did all the work but he did not say anything about flushing the engine? Was an engine flush necessary? Appreciate all comments on the matter. Thanks.
I went for engine oil change and tuneup yesterday and got Synthetic oil F1 10W-30. My question is that if my engine had normal oil before, would changing over to synthetic affect my engine?
No. Assuming that your engine was in good working order before.
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Originally Posted by smichael7
The mechanic did all the work but he did not say anything about flushing the engine? Was an engine flush necessary?
No.
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Appreciate all comments on the matter. Thanks.
No problem. Welcome to TN.
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Originally Posted by TURBO Das Automagazin
A BRZ, a curvy mountain road makes one liter of happiness hormones.
Engine flushing is not necessary. Go back and forth between synthetic and conventional as you desire.
I do wonder why you did 10W-30, especially in Canada. If you're going to use synthetic, you might as well use a 0W-30. You get superior cold starting and still maintain the viscosity of a 30 grade oil when warm. That 10W-30 will be awfully thick (relatively) when cold. 5W-30 is the "highest" (in terms of xW grades) that Toyota recommends.
If I were going to use a synthetic, I'd use the Castrol 0W-30 (even in North Carolina). It's long proven to be one of the most robust oils out there, and is often available for $30 for 5 quarts combined with a K&N or Mobil 1 oil filter (both good filters).
the only reason to do an engine flush when switching is if you want to do extended drains, if you're sticking with something close to the manufacturer's OCI than you're fine...
If you're going to use synthetic, you might as well use a 0W-30. You get superior cold starting and still maintain the viscosity of a 30 grade oil when warm.
If I were going to use a synthetic, I'd use the Castrol 0W-30 (even in North Carolina). It's long proven to be one of the most robust oils out there, and is often available for $30 for 5 quarts combined with a K&N or Mobil 1 oil filter (both good filters).
Agreed for the most part. I use that stuff in my car year round and it runs butter smooth.
However, the Castrol 0W30, if you're referring to the one that's made in Germany, is actually closer to a 40 weight when at operating temperature as indicated by the cSt viscosity rating at 100 C: 12.2.
But it's still a solid true PAO-based synthetic oil.
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Originally Posted by TURBO Das Automagazin
A BRZ, a curvy mountain road makes one liter of happiness hormones.
Thanks a bunch for all the replies. I took my car to Canadian Tire which is the premiere automotive car parts and service shop in Canada; basically a brand that has so called pro mechanics and hence overcharges on everything. I was kinda pressed for time so i took it to this place close by.
They offered this Formula1 10W-30 Synthetic and assured me that this is the best oil for my car. I am very much an amateur with these things. So you recommend 0W-30 or 5W-30? Our winters can get as cold as 40 Degrees Celcius. I do keep the car in the basement though. Could there be a problem starting the car in winter?
Next time I will definitely take my car to the Toyota dealer and use 0W-30.
However, the Castrol 0W30, if you're referring to the one that's made in Germany, is actually closer to a 40 weight when at operating temperature as indicated by the cSt viscosity rating at 100 C: 12.2.
Viscosity grades are defined as acceptable ranges and not as one solid value. The valid viscosity range for a 30 grade oil (at 100 deg C) is 9.30 - 12.49. The valid viscosity range for a 40 grade oil is 12.50 - 16.29. It's not really accurate to say that the German Castrol is "closer to a 40 weight", because there's no single number that defines what a 40 weight is; it's just a range. It is close to the 40 weight range, but it's still a 30 weight.
It can sometimes get confusing. Mobil 1 0W-40 is a rather thin 40 grade oil (something like 12.9 cSt I think). With shearing, it can actually fall down into the 30 grade territory, and be "thinner" than the German Castrol 0W-30. I've seen very few reports demonstrating that the German Castrol shears at all. It appears to be a very robust oil -- much more than our little 1ZZ or 2ZZ engines need.
They offered this Formula1 10W-30 Synthetic and assured me that this is the best oil for my car. I am very much an amateur with these things. So you recommend 0W-30 or 5W-30? Our winters can get as cold as 40 Degrees Celcius. I do keep the car in the basement though. Could there be a problem starting the car in winter?
It might be Shell Formula synthetic. It could also be Canadian Tire's house brand. The oil itself is probably fine (all oils today are good quality). But it's most definitely not the correct weight. I'd go back and insist that they use the correct weight. They should make that correction free of charge for you; that was their mistake.
They'll often sell you on whatever they have in stock at the time. Maybe they didn't even have any 5W-20 or 5W-30 (both are acceptable for these engines).
I've been using 5w30 Mobil1 synthetic in my 06 CE and i was thinking of trying Royal Purple. I'd be interested in anyone's comments on this as well. I get my oil changes done at my local Toyota dealership and I talked to them about 0w30 and they said that was more for the 09+ Corollas. They still recommended 5w30 for mine.
There is a TSB from Toyota that recommends 5W-20 for the 2006+ Corollas (maybe it was 2005+, but I think it was 2006+). But it also recommends that you follow what the oil fill cap says, and that's 5W-30 on all 9th gen Corollas I think.
I ran Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 in my car when I first got it. Right now, it's got Chevron Supreme 5W-30. I'm getting better MPG on the conventional 5W-30 than I got with the synthetic 5W-20. I wouldn't mess with Royal Purple. If you really want to use synthetic, go to Walmart and get a 5-quart jug of Mobil 1 for $22.
Else, just get whatever oil you want and change it out every 5k miles. It really DOES NOT MATTER what you use in it. Any API-SM oil will 100% protect the engine. Buying synthetic and boutique oils might make you feel warmer and fuzzier inside, but it doesn't make a lick of difference to engine longevity.
I'd personally only recommend synthetic oils under two conditions:
1) You live in a real cold climate and want to use a 0W-30 or 0W-20 oil. That's not currently available in conventional oils. Synthetic oils have demonstrably better pour points than do conventionals.
2) You drive a LOT and don't want to change your oil every month or two. In that case, use a synthetic and run it out to 10,000 miles, with a used oil analysis to verify that you're getting good engine wear. Even with synthetics, there are UOAs posted on a few websites from 9th gen Corollas that show that 7,500 miles is too many in some cases. And I've also seen one of a 5W-30 conventional ran to 5,500 miles and the analysis lab said that the wear was so good, they recommended extending to 6,500 miles...on conventional.
I run amsoil in my 2006 Corolla. Change once a year, about 18,500 miles. Had oil checked just before changing and was still doing fine, had darkened a bit but not as bad as dino oil after 4000 miles. About $50 for oil and filter. Use amsoil filter also. No problems, have 60000 miles so far.
I just switched from valvoline 5w-30 duratec syntetic blend to mobil 1 0w-30 and i an using a fram XG4967 filter. After the change was complete and the fluids topped of i went for a drive. I noticed that the engine ran smoother and idled at 800rpm instead of the 900rpm before the change. Also when at a stop sign their was a lot less engine vibration as was before. I am convinced so far that the synthetic oil will be a supierior product and will keep using it "if" it is cost effective to run with it.
-Big Kat
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