2003 1ZZ-FE Cold Engine Knock

[Ohiowa]

Hello all,

I recently purchased an '03 LE and have noticed a light pinging/knocking only while the engine is cold. I previously owned a Saturn that did the same thing some years ago and I'm trying to figure out if its just a trait of 4-cylinder engines or if its something I need to listen for.

It personally doesn't bother me and doesn't affect performance (as soon as the temperature gauge needle comes off the peg, the sound goes away).

Advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

2003 Corolla LE 1ZZ-FE
67,500 miles (or so)
According to Toyota service records, it has been regularly maintained at near recommended intervals.

[JasonA]

Welcome!

It's most likely one of two things:

1) Exhaust leak, usually at the exhaust manifold. You'd think an exhaust leak would sound like a chug-chug-chug, but it very often resembles a ping or a knock.

2) Piston slap, although probably more common in the Saturn engine than the Toyota engine. I've not really heard of piston slap issues with these engines, as I have with some others.

You might consider putting fresh oil and a Toyota oil filter on it. That would at least rule out those simple things.

[Ohiowa]

You might consider putting fresh oil and a Toyota oil filter on it.

I just bought it last week and the Toyota dealer had just taken it through the shop before I drove it off the lot. Oil is fresh and clean.

As I said, I'm not really concerned about it, but I thought I'd check to make sure I shouldn't be.

Thanks!

[JasonA]

You might ask the dealer about it.

Unfortunately, the valvetrain on this engine isn't really adjustable, not with a wrench anyway. If the valve lash is too great, different combinations of shims and lifters are used to get the correct lash. That's what Toyota tends do to on all of its modern engines as I understand. For the most part, it seems to work well. Except for the slightly squeaky belt that I have that needs replacement (already!), the engine is kitty-purr quiet.

[JasonA]

Oh: another thought.

Make sure (if you really care to) that they used 5W-30 oil in it instead of 5W-20 oil. Toyota released a TSB that covers the 2006+ cars, instructing dealers that 5W-20 is the new factory fill, and to begin servicing these models with the 5W-20 oil (even though the oil fill cap still says 5W-30). I've had both 5W-20 synthetic oil and 5W-30 conventional oil in mine and the engine is noticeably quieter on the 5W-30 oil.

I say that because the TSB specifically only applies to the 2006+ models. I'm sure the engines are the same internally going back to 2003 (and even before), but for some reason, the TSB only goes back to '06. Even if the engines ARE the same internally, even mine (to which the TSB definitely applies) was definitely louder on the 5W-20 oil.

[Ohiowa]

I noticed today that it's much more pronounced when the A/C is running, which stands to reason. I'm gonna ignore it.

[mikered30]

Could this knocking be the tensioner or belt?

[JasonA]

It may be the A/C compressor itself. Mine makes some noise as well. I originally thought it was a top engine tick (like a lifter). Turns out, it's just the A/C compressor running. The engine itself is so quiet, the A/C noise is just more pronounced.

[Ohiowa]

Diggin' up an old post here...

Experimented yesterday morning by setting the parking brake and putting it in drive. The knock is distinctly coming from the intake manifold on the front of the engine. Again, this is only really pronounced when the engine is completely cold after sitting overnight. Summer or Winter doesn't seem to matter.

I'm seriously pondering taking the valve covers off next spring to investigate, but I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing.

Help?

[Mr.Popadopolis]

I have the same problem with my 2000 mr-2, here is what i have found out so far....

the OCV (oil control valve) gets clogged easily, it will cause oil starvation but will not throw a light.

the OCV valve is on the front left of the motor and is held on by 2 10mm nuts, take it off and clean it with carb cleaner when you do your next oil change. this could fix the problem.

the oil return holes drilled into the Pistons are too small for the motor (thats why the TSB says use thinner oil)
however, this will still lead to starvation of the crankshaft bearings and your oil will look like somone poured gold glitter into it....

improperly manufactured piston sleeves causes any mileage engine to chatter, long term results in lateral piston slap (they move sideways in the cylinder walls) this is most evident around 60,000 miles when you will see INCREASED OIL CONSUMPTION (1qt. every 1,000 miles) and a KNOCK WHEN COLD (as the sleeves and pistons are smaller due to temperature which allows movement to be heard through the valves, intake and exhaust)


ALL 1ZZ-FE motors are noisy, this is a result of the hydraulic style bucket lifters used in the VVT design, they require a lash adjustment every 30,000 miles, but nobody ever does, your engine will always make a quiet ticking noise .... kle kle kle kle kle.... this is the lifters hitting the valves cause of improper spacing, this noise is totaly normal and non harmful, unless it gets louder.... the time it takes to adjust this valve train is 5.1 hours (allDATA service labor rates)