So I was browsing another forum, and someone had brought up the 1ZZFE engine, and showed an older style, cast aluminium intake manifold. Plain and simple, will this fit on my newer 1ZZFE, why or why not? What about gains/losses in power? The goal here is HP. I don't care if I lose MPGs for doing it.
I don't think there's much to gain by changing it. The official horsepower numbers were higher in 2003, when the plastic intake was installed, compared with before. For example, the 2000 Corolla had 125 horsepower @ 5,600 RPM, and 125 lb*ft of torque @ 4,400 RPM. Compare that with the 2003 Corolla with 130 horsepower @ 6,000 RPM and 125 lb*ft of torque @ 4,200 RPM.
The plastic manifold is lighter (generally better for performance) and likely stays cooler (generally better for performance). My plastic intake manifold is barely warm to the touch after I drive home from work. Couldn't say that about an aluminum manifold.
Further, I believe that the plastic intake manifold on the 2003-2008 1ZZ-FE is a "variable" manifold, with an internal valve that opens and closes at certain points, to lengthen or shorten the air flow path. I can't be sure though.
In some cases, you want to be able to reduce flow or cut off part of the flow to certain runners. Look at how the Toyota TVIS system works - basically the same principle. By alterating the flow at certain engine speeds, you introduce pressure differentials that actually "increase" cylinder filling efficiency.
I have an 8th gen Corolla with the tubular intake - will almost cause power loss on the newer 1ZZ-FE engines, as the older ones benefited from long length, low torque enhancing runners. Whereas the newer 9th gen Corollas have a retuned ECM and different cam profile that generates more power in the middle of the powerband and extend the "useable" power to even wider RPM ranges.
Interesting, and weird all at once. For those wondering, I'm trying to find some cheap HP quick. I've entered a local drag event in hopes of gaining some much needed experience, and to kill a Friday night. My goal is anything under 16 seconds. That said, anyone got any cheap tips (launch RPM, easy power, etc.) they might be wiling to divulge?
I've freshened up the air filter, and added an axle-back exhaust (it was $100, and I couldn't get a cat-back system done for the money I had), and changed the heat range in the spark plugs. Then I vacuumed the car, pulled of the hub caps (any less rotational mass is good), and the false trunk floor. On race day, I'm leaving the spare tire and jack at home, and using as much gas as possible running down to about 1/8 of a tank to save weight.
Yes, I'm getting slaughtered in this car, but my other plan fell through. I was going to buy a used nitrous kit (set up for 125 wet shot) and slap it on my '92 cavalier V6. The kit was $400, and before that, I needed to replace the struts and battery.
If you can do it without damaging anything, take out the passenger seat, the back seats, and just about everything in the trunk. That will save quite a bit of weight. Compared to all this, your hubcaps will hardly make a difference.
Outside of that....its a stock Corolla, thats 6 years old. Youve lost some HP and torque, so dont expect a whole lot.
And running down that much gas may not be a good idea, especially considering youre going to be at full throttle a few times that night. You'll probably run dry.
To be honest, I doubt youll hit anything under 16. You may get IN the 16s, but probably not by much.
Correction, it's a 2007, so it's only 2. You only really lose power if you don't maintain the car properly. Since I do maintain my car properly, I suspect I'm still running at least stock power with what I've got. As for the passenger seats, I can't find the hardware underneath to remove the back one, and the front one is hooked up to a weight sensor, so I want to check with Toyota before unhooking it in case it throws a code.
Also, removing the hub caps performs two services: 1) The race requirements say I can't have them on anyways, and 2) Each one weighs a half pound. This adds up to 2 pounds of rotational mass. Since each pound of rotational mass = 7 pounds of static mass, I've actually just saved the equivalent weight of the back rest of the entire back seat (most people don't realize their back seat is just packed foam and a piece of plastic in the back of it).
I was also going to swap out the rear wheels with a set of 14" Chevy alloys, but the offset is wrong, and it doesn't fit properly. Which is really too bad, because they were much lighter than the steelies.
Regarding the intake, adding length to the intake runners aids in lower speed performance and torque. Shortening the intake runners optimizes high RPM power. Traditionally, you had only one or the other. Stump-pulling V-8s didn't make power past 3000 RPM. High RPM screamers idled at 2000 RPM or they'd stall out. But with the advent of the variable intake manifold (many manufacturers use this now; even the pushrod 3.8L V-6 on my Chrysler minivan has a variable intake plenum), you can access some of the best of both worlds. Very much like variable valve timing actually. If you're drag racing, the intake manifold valve won't bother you; it'll be closed when it needs to be and open when it needs to be.
Do you have an automatic or a manual transmission? Car & Driver ran an 07 LE 5-speed through the 1/4 mile at 16.5 seconds. 0-60 for that same car was 7.9 seconds. Few believe that a 1ZZ-FE 5-speed will do 0-60 in under 8 seconds, but the numbers are there. Anyway, getting into the 15s will likely be rather tough.
You need some lightweight wheels. I don't know about your claim of 1 pound of rotational mass = 7 pounds of static mass. I'm not saying it's wrong, just that I've never heard of it. Those steel wheels you have weigh 20 pounds each. I know; I weighed mine (just the wheel). I replaced them with Prius alloys. Exact same size and offset, just very lightweight alloy vs. steel. They're only 14 pounds each. That compares to about 16 pounds each for the stock Corolla alloys, so the Prius alloys are even lighter. I took 24 pounds of weight off my car with that. And if each of those 24 pounds of rotating mass equals 7 pounds of static mass, I guess I'm down 168 pounds. I'll tell you that I could tell a difference immediately. The car felt lighter on its feet, more "precise", and the ride even improved.
I'd hunt down the thread, but it was bout two years ago, and I'd be wading through a slough of other threads even searching. I read that on J-Body.org (someone put some ridiculously huge wheels on their car, then complained of mileage and performance bogging a lot. Iirc, the 19" wheels he was using brought him down from 35-ish to 28 mpg). The wheels I'm going to use are a 16" wheel, but still manage to only weigh 11 lbs each. This really opens up high grip tire options, too. Unfortunately, this year I'll be S-O-L for anything like that. It's good to know how this manifold works, though.
15s is a bit lofty, but I've been working on where I should launch the car, and it seems that about 1800 RPM is good on stock tires. Anything above that and the tires start to chirp and you lose grip for a second. Hopefully, with a bit of luck and some spot on timing, I could do it. In fact with this car, if I eventually ended at mid to low 15s (maybe in a year or two), I'd be super happy with it.
Most larger wheels (and aftermarket wheels in general) are awfully heavy. I don't doubt it for a minute that someone put 19s on a small car and noticed a degrade in performance. There are some really nice and light aftermarket wheels, like Gramlite and Tracklite, etc. They're expensive, but they ARE light. Those would be a great choice. Just make sure not to increase the overall diameter of the tire when you move to the larger wheel. And stick to a rather narrow tire for drag racing. A larger tire won't really give you a larger contact patch, and will only increase aerodynamic drag. A larger tire will also be heavier. I'd stick to a 205/55R16 or so.
Being right on the verge of tire slip is obviously where you get maximum acceleration. Even if the tires chirped some, that's not necessarily bad, because it just might be a better option than bogging the engine. A GM Powertrain engineer I know said that about 10% slip is best for acceleration right off the line, because it's the best compromise in keeping the tire planted to the road but quickly getting the engine up into its good power band.
Put some real light engine oil in it (like 0W-20) and some good synthetic manual transmission lubricant (like Redline MT-90). You may also consider an aftermarket shifter and solid shifter rod bushings, to prevent any slop in the system when shifting. After a lot of launches, an upgraded clutch and better motor mounts will transmit more power during the launch.
And of course, if you're looking to absolutely maximize power for racing, look at a good intake system and a header to go with the exhaust. Few of these items make a whole lot of difference on their own, but when combined together, you start to see some cumulative effects.
The wheels I was looking at were discontinued . However, the next most comparable wheel is considerably cheaper, and will be easier to keep clean. On the downside, they are considerably heavier (15 lbs).
It's unfortunate I can't afford the extra power adders this year, but maybe next year. I'll run what I've got (stock for stock, we're faster on an auto than a manual cobalt, and about the same a base civic)
As for bolt on mods, I've been told to expect no more than about 15-20 HP with the UR pulley kit. The intake/exhaust systems on a corolla are pretty efficient already. The reason Corollas with a 1ZZFE aren't popular in the import tuner world (unlike D series Hondas) is because of the frustration people get with not being able to get huge gains from bolt on mods. They all miss the key to these cars: weight. compare the curb weight of a 9th gen to any competitor. It weighs 100 lbs less than a civic Si, 400 lbs less than a Sentra, 300 lbs less than a Delta body (Saturn Ion, Chevy Cobalt, Pontiac G5), and 250 less than a golf. In short, a little power goes a long way. Weight reduction goes even further, and once you dig into the suspension and bolster that, you can get a great car for less than a "fast" base model Delta, Civic or Sentra, unless you took a base civic or Delta and bolted on a turbo kit, that is.
No offense to your buddy, but if he wants a car to race in, he's got the wrong one. My old $500 beater would walk all over a Spectra. for the record, it walks all over my Corolla, too. The difference is my Corolla doesn't scare small children.
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Intake manifold
. However, the next most comparable wheel is considerably cheaper, and will be easier to keep clean. On the downside, they are considerably heavier (15 lbs).
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