I don't know your situation but I recommend taking a look at a XRS if you're going to mod a 1ZZ-FE engined Corolla.
The XRS looks nearly identical to your S, but it has the following performance upgrades: 40bhp more stock, 6 speed manual, sport suspension, and 4-wheel disc brakes.
I don't know your situation but I recommend taking a look at a XRS if you're going to mod a 1ZZ-FE engined Corolla.
The XRS looks nearly identical to your S, but it has the following performance upgrades: 40bhp more stock, 6 speed manual, sport suspension, and 4-wheel disc brakes.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBO Das Automagazin
A BRZ, a curvy mountain road makes one liter of happiness hormones.
Actually, the difference in reality is more than 40 HP. Stock 1ZZ 5 speed dynos between 110 - 112 wheel HP while XRS bone stock were dyno'ing from 152 - 158 wheel HP stock. So the difference is more than 40 wheel HP stock, which is about 50 - 55 crank HP.
Given that shows only an 8 - 9% drivetrain loss on the XRS, actually XRS was underrated since typical FWD drivetrain loss is 11 - 13% minium.
The peak 127 ft-lbs happening @ 4400 rpm is also false since according to dyno graphs, the peak torque is not at 4400 rpm, but at 6800 rpm and around 130 - 133 ft-lbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exage
Specs as follows:
9th Gen Corolla: CE, S, LE
1ZZ-FE: 130bhp @ 6000rpm, 125lb-ft @ 4200rpm, Redline 6400rpm
I don't know your situation but I recommend taking a look at a XRS if you're going to mod a 1ZZ-FE engined Corolla.
The XRS looks nearly identical to your S, but it has the following performance upgrades: 40bhp more stock, 6 speed manual, sport suspension, and 4-wheel disc brakes.
__________________ SSM 05 Corolla XRS 6 Spd VVTL-i 2ZZ-GE /04 Corolla S 1ZZ-FE (sold)
The easiest (and cheapest) way to increase HP and times is to lighten the load! If you've got anything extra in the car, get it out!
Short Ram/CAI can increase HP a bit; underdrive pulleys can increase it but are reported to damage alternators over time; new exhaust manifold/exhaust system; turbochargers and superchargers (Don't fall for the 'electric turbos'; most of them aren't worth the money and don't do squat-the only ones I know of that work are usually more expensive than traditional turbos and are only good for short boosts); NOS (small, short controlled shots shouldn't hurt your engine too much); some people claim Pulstar plugs make a difference-from my experience a good set of Denso's with proper gapping (I usually check them before I install and adjust if necessary) are just fine; you might think about a lighter and larger set of wheels (larger wheels will travel further with each rotation and lighter wheels are easy to get moving); you can do forged pistons; a head swap with a 2zz-ge if you've got a 1zz-fe; ECU reprogram or piggyback system; stronger fuel pump and injectors and fuel lines
It all depends on how serious you are about getting more power out of it!
you might think about a lighter and larger set of wheels (larger wheels will travel further with each rotation and lighter wheels are easy to get moving)...
And it's for that reason that larger diameter wheels/tires will hurt performance (acceleration) rather than improvement. If you want to install larger wheels, you'll have to use shorter profile tires to keep the overall circumference the same. It's all about the circumference of the tire.
Lighter wheels are a good thing; less rotational mass and less unsprung weight. But in general, larger wheels are your enemy in terms of all-around "performance".
And it's for that reason that larger diameter wheels/tires will hurt performance (acceleration) rather than improvement. If you want to install larger wheels, you'll have to use shorter profile tires to keep the overall circumference the same. It's all about the circumference of the tire.
Lighter wheels are a good thing; less rotational mass and less unsprung weight. But in general, larger wheels are your enemy in terms of all-around "performance".
Exactly. Larger wheels will make the gear ratios taller, which will make the car rev slower and stay mostly in low rpms ranges while reducing access to the peak torque and HP much like a shelf too high to reach. This will make the car perform worse under full throttle.
__________________ SSM 05 Corolla XRS 6 Spd VVTL-i 2ZZ-GE /04 Corolla S 1ZZ-FE (sold)
Exactly. Larger wheels will make the gear ratios taller, which will make the car rev slower and stay mostly in low rpms ranges while reducing access to the peak torque and HP much like a shelf too high to reach. This will make the car perform worse under full throttle.
Yep, and even if we're talking larger wheels, but tires with the same overall diameter/circumference: such as a 195/65R15 vs. a 205/55R16. Those two tires are exactly the same diameter (well, within 0.1"), so effective gear ratios remain unchanged. But if talking only about "horsepower" or acceleration, in general the 15" tires would have an advantage (all else being equal) due to the lower reciprocating mass of the smaller wheels.
Of course, lightweight wheels are offered in many sizes, but as a general rule, larger wheels/tires are not necessarily "better" for overall performance. NASCAR cars run 15" wheels, with BIG sidewalls. Similarly, F1 cars run 13" wheels. They handle just fine.
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