when im on the highway.. lets say 60+ mph.. and i let off the gas there is a slight shudder coming from the front left.. when i brake, it is much MUCH more pronounced..
i was thinking a warped rotor.. but it is slightly noticable when im not on the brakes... i feel like if it still is a warped rotor .. that is able to affect it while not on the brakes, the shaking would be much more violent than it is when i AM on the brakes...
i jacked the car up and shook the wheel to check for play... to see if it was a tie rod or something... but didnt get much play from that..
brake pads look like they are about 60% done... but still okay..
Remember that even though the brakes are "off", the pads are still in contact with the disc, so you could still feel some of that. Though typically, that feeling goes away after a few rotations of the disc as the TV pushes the pads away from the surface and you get good separation.
It could also be a driveline issue (like a CV shaft), but my money is on rotors that need to be re-surfaced.
Your rotors are pretty much warped like hell then. Don't bother resurface them, just replace them. Go on tirerack.com and order the brembo replacement rotors at a pretty reasonable price. Get new pads also so they are beded in the rotors so they can wear evenly.
hmm well i was counting on rotors as well.. but after reading about how TV occurs it makes sense that its just a rotor.. i was wondering if there was anythign else these symptoms could be mistaken for...
it makes sense because it feels liek it was on the left side of the car..
and about a week or two ago.. the front left wheel locked up.. for a few dozen feet.. so im guessing that was enough heat build up to create such thickness variation...
and i dont recall having much shudder in the wheel before that happened...
For that, I'd turn the OE rotors, or at least have a shop try. Unless you spend a lot of money on new rotors, the metallurgy on an OE rotor is going to be better than the replacement. It'll only be $10-15 per rotor to turn them, and if the rotors are too thin, they won't even charge you. I've had a number of rotors turned at Pep Boys, all with great results.
What'll really cause TV is a long stop from a high speed, then sitting there with the brakes applied for minutes (like at a stop light). You've just heated the pads to a pretty high temperature, and now you've got 'em mashed against the rotor. Material just naturally deposits there. Over time, those deposits form a "high spot" on the rotor. What does that high spot do? Naturally, it's going to help scrape MORE material off the pad as it rotates through, which makes the condition worse and worse.
So all they've got to do is turn the rotors down so get rid of those high spots. They probably don't have to cut a whole lot of "native" material out of the rotors to make them true again.
For that, I'd turn the OE rotors, or at least have a shop try. Unless you spend a lot of money on new rotors, the metallurgy on an OE rotor is going to be better than the replacement. It'll only be $10-15 per rotor to turn them, and if the rotors are too thin, they won't even charge you. I've had a number of rotors turned at Pep Boys, all with great results.
What'll really cause TV is a long stop from a high speed, then sitting there with the brakes applied for minutes (like at a stop light). You've just heated the pads to a pretty high temperature, and now you've got 'em mashed against the rotor. Material just naturally deposits there. Over time, those deposits form a "high spot" on the rotor. What does that high spot do? Naturally, it's going to help scrape MORE material off the pad as it rotates through, which makes the condition worse and worse.
So all they've got to do is turn the rotors down so get rid of those high spots. They probably don't have to cut a whole lot of "native" material out of the rotors to make them true again.
I've only bought one set of rotors in my life, and on that van, one of the pads fell apart and wiped the rotor. So I just replaced the front set. Other than that, I've had excellent results with turning them.
I had that problem on my 2007 Crolla CE, as well. I thought it might be a rotor issue, as well, but when I replaced my tires, the shuddering went away. I am a newbie to cars, but trying to learn, so I thought I would share my experience.
i was gogin to get em from advance auto.. or something. theyre only liek 30-40 dollars for a basic rotor. i dont really need brembo rotors...
this isnt a performance car....
Quality is always a concern though. Brembos aren't just a good performance name, they're made well. Performance enthusiasts buy them because they're a good product. There are very few names I trust my brakes to. $30-$40 for a rotor just doesn't sound like a quality product. I'd be concerned with cheap materials, and overall build quality.
__________________
- The Broke Enthusiast
Last edited by thebrokeenthusiast; 09-10-2009 at 02:41 AM.
Reason: spelling.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
