"FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters" To remove frt wheel bearing

[alligatorgar]

I think Im in need of front wheel bearings and came across this device at harbor frieght. FWD Front Wheel Bearing Adapters
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66829

Has anyone used this device before and will it remove the pressed in front wheel bearing on my 03' corolla? My concern is a mechanical screw device removing a pressed in bearing. That bearing has allot of surface area and my fear is the factory included locktite in the press operation. If this device will work it will save me the headache of taking everything apart. However I figured while I have it apart I may as well change out the outer tie rods and the cv shafts. FYI it takes the infamous 30mm 12 point deep well socket to remove that nut gang. I have plans to grind down a chisel for the nut lock device removal.

[alligatorgar]

Bump

[alligatorgar]

Im disappointed knowone replied to this thread. I tore into the corolla front end but am hesitant to post my experience seeing knowone else stepped up with comments advice help. What I learned today is priceless.

[JasonA]

It's possible that nobody has the experience to share. At some point, every repair has to be a "first" for the very small number of people who actively read an Internet board over the period of a week. If you post what you learned, all of a sudden, that body of knowledge becomes available for everyone. Not sharing what you learned only ensures that someone else down the road won't know the priceless bit of info that you figured out.

[alligatorgar]

Im aware of that. I was refering to the guys in the know. Like I am now.
FYI the front wheel bearings need to be pressed in. See my new post.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...55#post2912255

[evoman]

I just found out, even with this tool we still have to remove the knuckle because it cant take the hub off....it needs a special adapter which is not included. The best way would be to buy a cheap 6-12 ton press from harbor freight for 89 bucks and just press every thing out with some pieces of pipe and metal bars.

This is what i am doing, it only cost $10 bucks more

[alligatorgar]

yes evo man check out the updated post I included up top.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...55#post2912255
Live and learn. Im just passing on what I run into as I repair the corolla.

[evoman]

Hey great post alligatorgar!

Im about to embark on the wheel bearing replacement as well on my crapolla because the noise is driving me insane!

I have bought the press and 30mm socket. Do you think i need to change out the hub seals and did you change it when you did yours?

Also i have to change my lower ball joint...so im going to do it all at once while it is apart.

[alligatorgar]

Listed below is what I did to my corolla.
These bearings are a sealed unit, no hub seal required. These sealed bearings are pressed into the hubs. I would be very surprised if you can press these bearings out yourself. There is a special plate they use to remove/install them. Are you going to replace the cv shafts while in this far? The tranny seals are a must to change also if you do.

The 03 toyota corolla ce has pressed in front hubs that are pressed into the front wheel bearings that are then pressed into the knuckles. This means to change the front wheel bearings you will need to take the knuckles off and bring them to a shop that does their own pressing. (Note: the axle nut is a 12 star 30 mm use a deep well) (Note: the new axle O’Reilys sold me had a 32 mm 6 point nut on it use a deep well.) This can be tricky because there is a special press plate needed to press out the hubs. I brought mine to;
Margot
7700 Airline Hwy
Baton Rouge, La 70815
(225) 927-3700
This place is amazing they repair anything from a Toyota corolla to tractor trailers and school buses. Very impressive operation.
They pressed the bearings in for $55.00 each side.

I got the wheel bearings from O’Reilys.
510070 $32.99 ea.

While doing this job I went ahead and changed out the cv joints.
I got the cv from O’Reilys.
Left T08090 $60.99
Right T08092 $69.99
These joints come with the anti lock ring on them but its easy to use a punch to remove the ring. When installing the new cv put a little petroleum jelly around the shaft where the seal sits so it will slide smoothly on. You can rip the seal reinstalling the shaft if it is dry. Put anti seize on the cv shaft that has the splines for the hub it will make it easier to remove the hub in the future.

Getting the passenger cv joint out only required a pry bar and some muscle. (Drain the trans fluid before removing these shafts.)
Getting the drivers side out required much more. There is no where to pry from on the drivers side. I ended up tying two pieces of rope to the cv joint and attaching them to 2 15 pound dumb bells (I wish I had 50 lbs dumbbells it would have been easier). I gave it a few mighty yanks and the cv joint came flying out. I suggest you take off the strut if you do this and get the brake caliper high up out of the way. I had blankets in front of the cv joint so it would pad its landing. I ended up with a leak because the shaft end hit the seal on the way out. This seal is a breeze to change so don’t be scared to change them. out. I recommend changing these seals out considering how easy it is to change them. Cheap insurance so you don’t have to take everything apart again like I did. I used a seal removal tool purchased from harbor freight (it worked great). Just tap them in with a small block of wood.

O’Reily
Left 710109 $13.49
Right 710110 $8.49
Or
Toyota dealer
Left 1111190311-34023 $9.57
Right 1111190311-34026 $12.69

I’m an expert on this project now. Just a fyi before this project I had the front end alignment done and after doing this job I had it aligned again. It was not out of alignment so the shop tells me. It was still within spec. Just some food for thought.

[evoman]

Yeah i bought this 6 tons press to remove the bearings because I am pressing out bushings for my sisters accord. So at the same time, mabey i could use this to press out the bearings, I have too steel angles grinded down to press out the hub from the bearing. I am hoping that my 6ton press will force the bearing out...if not then i'll bring it to a shop.

The toyota dealer told me that i should change out the hub seals because they deteriorate faster up here with all the salt on the roads and such. So i bought them in case, they were only $15 so why not. I don't think i need to change the CV shafts but my upper strut tower frame is rusting like crazy!!! I better fix that before it gets worse!

Your post was great alligatorgar cos it gives me confidence! I'll bought all the parts and tools and now just waiting to put it all together. This noisy bearing is driving me crazy! Hopefully i can make it drive like new again.

[alligatorgar]

Glad it helped. Thanks for posting your approval. It makes it worth while posting my experiences when ppl like you guys use the info and post your own experiences. Im sure you will run into different problems working on a car used that far up north. Salt, snow, temperature extremes. Let us know how it came out.

[evoman]

Hey alligator!

I actually pressed out the bearings myself...took lots of technique! I took some photos and will do a write up so everyone can do this! Would you happen to know the torque spec for the front axle nut? I think it is 137 lb-ft but im not sure?

[alligatorgar]

Hey great to hear. Looking forward to it. 159 lbs is the torque for that nut. wow its allot.

[inuhbad]

Evoman, any chance you can post those photos and your write-up on pressing out your wheel bearings?

I found this forum on a search engine, and I'm about to do the same thing to my 1997 Camry V6. Front wheel bearings, and lower ball joints both nearly disintegrated on the freeway last week, and now I'm rebuilding the entire front end of my Camry this week.

One of the things I've noticed is that since I live in Minnesota, the salt and corrosion is a REAL pain in the rear!

There are cotter pins holding in the lower ball joint bolt, as well as the tie-rod end bolt... In order to remove the steering knuckle, I had to get these cotter pins out. However, they were driven pretty deep into the cross-drilled bolt hole, and over time, the rust & corrosion seems to have fused them together!

I had to carefully cross-drill out the cotter pins, and then drift-out pieces of them with a hammer & punch. This allowed me to get the cotter pins out, and get the steering knuckle removed.


Then I still had trouble getting the lower ball joint nut to come off the bolt! I soaked it heavily in deep penetrating oil overnight, locked it into my workbench vise, and proceeded to try carefully removing the nut.



However, that thing is STUBBORN! Since you can't use a socket & breaker bar (because the anti-lock-brake sensor flange is in the way, and is quite fragile), I used a wrench & cheater bar! Much to my disliking, it seems the nut & bolt are fused or something! I snapped my wrench head clean apart trying to remove the darn nut!

I'll try one more time with a better, not-made-in-china wrench, and if that doesn't do the trick there's always my hacksaw! The lower ball joint is cracked (but not fully sheared) anyway, so I have no problem destroying the bolt in the process of removing it - I just don't want to wreck the steering knuckle or ABS Sensor Flange!

I, too, picked up the Harbor Freight bearing removal tool, and although I'm having troubles getting it to do the trick, IT IS nice to have those adapter ends which will likely help me press out & replace the bearings with a shop press!

I just wanted to see how somebody else used their press to do the same thing - so I can have more confidence when I attempt it later tonight.

Sorry the pics are crummy - they're bad 'blackberry' pics. My digital camera was stolen.

Thanks for this EXCELLENT toyota discussion forum! I'll have to keep coming back here & reading more!

[TrdSpeed140]

inuhbad, for your stubborn castle-nut, have you tried heating up the nut with a torch? the torch would not only heat the nut and expand the metal, but it would also break free some of the corrosion holding the nut on. if you don't have a torch, you can get them at any hardware store, a hand-held propane or MAPP gas torch will suffice and they're pretty inexpensive. a line wrench, if you can get one big enough, would also be better suited for this than an open wrench (what I assumed you were using) since line wrenches grip more sides of a nut than a standard open-end wrench does, that would make less likely to strip the nut or break the wrench. good luck with whatever you decide to do.