*HELP*Tensioner bolt broke off inside engine block
So my wife's 2003 Corolla LE has 115k on it and it was making a noise the last two days so I decided to look this morning. I noticed the noise coming from the serpetine belt. After further inspection the bolt to the serpentine tensior was backed out all the way. I attempted to tighten it down, but it wouldn't. So I pulled the bolt out to find that a part of it sheared off and is inside the block. WTF is up with that? Does anyone know the cause of this other than being loose/vibration? Was their a TSB or Recall for this area on our cars? I did a lot of reading and couldn't find anything. Can someone please help? How do I remove it now? The only way to get it out is to lift the engine, use an "out", and put a new bolt in? Do I have to loosen up the tranny to lift the engine? Thanks for all the help guys I am so bummed right now.
Today after crazy black Friday shopping with my wife I made a huge discovery. The tensioner belt assembly has a washer on the back side that looks like it is pressed in (to me looks as if it is a dampener piece). Hence all the redesigns and failures with all the others and mine. How many times has this thing been redesigned now? Four times I have heard. So that back washer piece separated from the assembly unit, which lead to the vibration on the bolt, and premature breakage of the bolt inside the engine block. While at the dealership I asked for the TSB which was issued on April 17, 2007 - 03-07 Corolla & Matrix Accessory Drive Belt/Belt Tensioner Assembly Noise. It states "excessive noise (rattling/vibration) coming from the engine during operation. The tensioner belt and assembly has been improved to correct this condition." NO SHIT! Sorry for my rant, but this is BS! They knew their was an issue and failed to make a recall. Now I am stuck buying a brand new tensioner assembly, bolt, and 100's of dollars to get that sucker out.
I am now please asking for all who have had this problem to please put your issues, problems, fixs, etc. to this in this thread (specifics would be great). I have been documenting this thoroughly so I can take this to Toyota Customer service to see what they can do about this. My parents and I have been loyal Toyota customers since the 1975. I would really hope others please chim in so this can be taken to the next level a total recall of this part on Corollas. Talk about major problems for all the millions of 9th Corollas out there. Thanks again all for the help, but let's save others my heartache by putting down their issues, and let's get this to a recall.
The reason why you haven't seen a ton of responses is because most folks don't have a problem. Parts get redesigned and improved all the time. Just because something was improved doesn't mean that the manufacturer should "recall" all the old parts.
Internal tensioner noise is a problem that happens with enough regularity that Toyota documented a diagnostic procedure for it (so technicians wouldn't spend a lot of time diagnosing a noise that was most likely due to a belt tensioner), but complete failure of the tensioner bolt is not typically part of the problem. Note that the re-design was internal to the tensioner; your problem is the bolt is broken, which is a completely separate issue. If your bolt broke off in the engine block, it would have done so regardless of which tensioner you have on there (and my understanding is that there are TWO tensioner designs, the old and the new).
The cause of your problem is probably frustratingly simple: the bolt that was used likely had an internal weakness from when it was made. But as you know, it'll likely cost a lot to repair. Life sucks sometimes.
My corolla had belt squeak issues from mile one. I had new belts installed and new tensioners under warranty. The squeak problem was solved for 30000 miles then started again and I installed a gatorback belt by good year. This stopped the squeak. I have no had no issue with the bolt coming lose or breaking. Provide pictures on your journey to repair this potential problem for others to learn from your loss. I write this as Im warming up the wifes corolla in the garage. I try to get her used to idea of warming the car up before jumping in and tearing off. good luck and I hope to read more of you issue
I write this as Im warming up the wifes corolla in the garage. I try to get her used to idea of warming the car up before jumping in and tearing off.
Just as an aside, the car doesn't need (or benefit from) any real "warm up". Get in, start it, and drive off reasonably until the coolant is warmed up. The engine warms up much faster this way (less wear), and you get less fuel in the oil. Letting the engine idle cold puts a lot of unburned fuel into the oil because the engine runs so rich when cold.
After 90000 miles with dino oil I tried mobil one and the engine has allot of valve noise until warm. I warm it so the wife doesnt have to hear this clanking when she gets into it in the morning.
Then use a different type of oil. I tried Mobil 1 once in our van and it had so much engine/valve noise, I thought I'd have to take it to the dealer. I just changed the oil to a different brand and it's quiet again. Won't touch that Mobil 1 again.
Just as an aside, the car doesn't need (or benefit from) any real "warm up". Get in, start it, and drive off reasonably until the coolant is warmed up. The engine warms up much faster this way (less wear), and you get less fuel in the oil. Letting the engine idle cold puts a lot of unburned fuel into the oil because the engine runs so rich when cold.
Hi Jason,
What do you meant by less fuel mixing in oil when you are not warming enough the engiine. Fuel does not mix with engine oil.
Also why it is harmful to warmup the engine. If you have high rpm, shifting to gear could possibly damage the engine mounts.
I normally warmup the engine until the temperature needle just hit the "C" mark. Is this harmful to engine.
Im giving mobil one a chance. Their web site states this light valve noise is normal and will not harm the engine. The oil is lighter than dino and flows easier until warm. I will continue to warm the car in the mornings.
^ Thanks for the responses above, but lets keep it on topic with Tensioner issues please. So I took the car in as I didn't have time or a engine hoist to get that bolt out. My mechanics said that the bolt sheared off a long time ago do to a failure in the tensioner itself. The back side of the tensioner has a pressed in dampener that looks like a washer. It separated from the tensioner itself causing vibration which in turned sheared off and recessed inside the block. (Hence my major issue). I don't have pictures yet, but my mechanics do and when I get them I will post pictures. They said the rust from the bolt clearly shows that this sucker was broken for a while and by their years of experience they said probably close to 1-2 yrs. I always pop the hood and check for issues, but we never noticed any premature wear on the belt or excessive noise from the tensioner. So $450 later to get that sucker out (dealer wanted $800 minimum) I am hoping Toyota will at least recognize that yes their still is an issue out there that millions of 9th gen Corollas have like me. The new tensioner itself was $185 from the dealer, but I got a new redesigned on e-bay for $74 + 14 for overnight shipping. My mechanics analyzed the new bolt and tensioner to the old design and said they changed the degree off angle on the tensioner and the bolt is made of a better quality hardened steal. I was like nice a little too late for me. Funny thing is that on the new 10th gen Corollas my little sister has one, the tensioner is totally redesigned and looks like a beefier unit that has a huge dampener to it. I will try to take pictures of that one to compare. I know it is a long shot with Toyota, but I did find others that had a bolt sheer off too on Ninthgencorolla forums. Toyota is gonna get a nice long e-mail and letter from us. Let's pray for some sort of accommodation.
Regarding the tensioner, I do hope you get some consideration from Toyota on it. And it's good to have this documented on here so others can see the resolution. If you hear back, please post!
Regarding oil, yes, fuel does mix with oil. Fuel concentration in motor oil is measured and reported on every Used Oil Analysis you'll ever see. When cold, the engine runs rich (more fuel than the engine really needs) and fuel can get down into the crankcase from washing down the cylinder walls and via blow-by. The more the engine idles like this, the more fuel you'll get into the oil (which is not good). Shifting into Drive while the engine is cold should be fine: this is how Toyota designed the car. Trust them. If a long warm-up were required before driving, the owner's manual would say that.
Fire it up, put it in drive and away-you-go may sound good to you guys from civilized climates like N. Carolina and California. We Canadians invite you to have the opportunity of enjoying a good minus 25 degree morning. (celsius or fahrenheit, doesn't matter) I swear you can feel the pain and suffering going on under the hood; a few minutes of warm up is the least you can do for it.
I've lived in Michigan also, and with carburetors. Fuel injection is a piece of cake. Really...do as you like. Just relaying what's necessary and what's not. Your enigne will warm up much faster on those below-zero mornings if you actually drive it instead of letting it idle.
I've lived in Michigan also, and with carburetors. Fuel injection is a piece of cake. Really...do as you like. Just relaying what's necessary and what's not. Your enigne will warm up much faster on those below-zero mornings if you actually drive it instead of letting it idle.
I 100% disagree with JasonA I live in a cold climate and if I can i let my cars warm up for at least 5 mins before driving them. there are so many parts to a car that can break and letting the car warm up keeps those parts in place. I also drive the car carefully at first to let the tranny and differential warm up. they are your cars do as you want but i have never heard advice like that before
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*HELP*Tensioner bolt broke off inside engine block
So $450 later to get that sucker out (dealer wanted $800 minimum) I am hoping Toyota will at least recognize that yes their still is an issue out there that millions of 9th gen Corollas have like me. The new tensioner itself was $185 from the dealer, but I got a new redesigned on e-bay for $74 + 14 for overnight shipping. 
My mechanics analyzed the new bolt and tensioner to the old design and said they changed the degree off angle on the tensioner and the bolt is made of a better quality hardened steal. I was like nice a little too late for me. Funny thing is that on the new 10th gen Corollas my little sister has one, the tensioner is totally redesigned and looks like a beefier unit that has a huge dampener to it. I will try to take pictures of that one to compare. I know it is a long shot with Toyota, but I did find others that had a bolt sheer off too on Ninthgencorolla forums. Toyota is gonna get a nice long e-mail and letter from us. Let's pray for some sort of accommodation.
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