2005 Corolla to replace drive belt tensioner

[clarinet]

I went to the local dealer for maintenance of my 2005 Corolla. It's about 63000 miles, and I only asked for oil change. Later the dealer called me to recommend a replacement of the drive belt tensioner (part number 16620-0w093, part price $187, and 2hr labor for $200), plus a related item maybe called tesioner assembly chain (part number 13540-0D010, and price $33, and 1 hr labor for $100). Plus, it also recommends the flush of the power drive fluid, brake fluid, and emission fluid. The reason they gave about replacing the tensioner is that something on it is leaking, and said it would be dangerous because the drive belt will become loose if it is not replaced. This is the second time they recommeneded to me, and the last time was I did the previous oil change. I opened the hood and didn't see anything abnormal, and the drive belt sounds fine to me. I am just wondering if it is necessary to change the tensioner or the dealer is just trying to rip me off. How do I tell if the tensioner is leaking, and when I should replace the tensioner? Plus, is it necessary to flush those fluids?

[Ohiowa]

Tensioners are known to go bad on our Corollas. The pulley at the upper rear corner of the engine is what you should be looking at. The tensioner basically works like a mini shock absorber that keeps constant tension on the serpentine belt while offering some vibration absorption. If the hydraulic (pneumatic?) piston starts to leak, it won't be able to do its job.

The second part number you gave is the timing chain tensioner. Not sure if this is a do-it-yourself item, as it involves engine timing, and I'm personally terrified of screwing that up.

I replaced my own serpentine tensioner last spring because it was squealing. Overall, I think I spent ~$80 for [aftermarket] parts and about two hours in the driveway. It's a simple fix, I don't know that I would pay someone ~$200 in labor. If, at idle, your engine starts to make noise and you can verify that it's the tensioner, I'd go ahead and pay someone to replace it or do it yourself.

Emission fluid? Perhaps transmission fluid? Unless your transmission fluid is burned or discolored, I would say this is generally unnecessary since our transmissions are not usually problematic.

Brake fluid should be flushed (according to my Haynes manual) every year when possible, since it's hygroscopic and will eventually absorb enough moisture that it will start to break down. I suppose this would depend on your overall brake system condition.

Overall, it doesn't hurt much of anything but your wallet if you have fluids replaced before they truly need to be. With 63,000 miles, I don't really think your 'Rolla has seen a whole lot abuse to justify complete fluid flush.

Anyone else have any (perhaps more experienced) input?

[mikered30]

Sounds like you should find a new dealer ASAP. It seems now it is their job to up sell. Now is a great time to find a local mechanic. As your car gets older, you will be less inclined to take it to the dealer and want to save money by taking it to a local (cheaper) mechanic. Find a mechanic that works for under $75 per hour and avoid the BS $100 per hr at the dealer.

2 hrs for the tensioner repair is a rip off, the TSB for R&R of the belt and tensioner is 0.6 hrs. http://www.z-car.com/lotus/files/200...T-EG021-07.pdf I realize that it is warranty work for the R&R, but they want to take your money.

Also, toyota does not have a set schedule for power steering fluid, brake fluid, or tranny fluid. Only to inspect it. You should ask that dealer why they are selling services Toyota does not recommend and show them the maintenance book that came with your car. The dipstick on the tranny fluid says that it does not need to be replaced under normal driving conditions. Brake fluid does absorb water, but it would not be beyond me to think that they would just suck and refill the brake fluid instead of bleeding the brakes properly.

Coolant should be changed if it was not changed yet and do you hear any squeaking from under the hood, especially when cold? There is a real chance that the tensioner is bad.

http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com...t_id=18&done=1


I guess they say the timing chain sensor is leaking, which can be a problem on these engines but usually it is just the o ring that goes bad. There maybe a bit of oil leaking from your engine. Do you have super extended warranty on the car?

[clarinet]

I just checked the black gasket on the top of tensioner, and there is no grease around the gasket but some dirt built up. Plus, the drive belt doesn't make any squeaking noise when the car is idle. I think the tensioner is fine, but will double check with a friend who is good at mechanics. The dealer just made this up and tried to rip me off. Thank you for the replies!

[mikered30]

Dirt buildup probably means it is leaking.

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

FYI: I do sell to TN members for 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for materials, etc.

Here is my take on all this:

Yes, drive belt tensioners do go bad. Now usually we recomend those when there is a complaint or is something obvious. I don't know the techs at the dealer you took it to, so I am not sure if they did or did not see something obvious. A drive belt tensioner(16620-0W093) is $185.65 MSRP.

The timing chain tensioner is and should be a seperate issue. Again, unless you complain about it, i.e. oil leak, or there is visible signs of leakage, it shouldn't just be rubber stamped. They too, do have a tendancy to leak. Now I have been at dealers that replace the tensioner(13540-0D010) and it is $27.41 MSRP. I also have been at dealers who replace only the O ring(90301-22013) with a MSRP of $3.42. Now, since the tensioner is under $30.00, the tech usually replaces the whole thing as a liability issue so they are assured of no futur problems. Some DIYers or Dealer Techs will just do the O ring. Either way the tensioner does have to come out, so it isn't unusual to here of the whole part being replaced.

Below, I have attached a link to a diagram with my chicken scratch notes.

http://toyopartsman.webng.com/data/tensioners.pdf

Other than the brake flush, I don't like nor am I a fan of any kind of flushes. It isn't a Toyota recommended practice and they are beginning to really crack down on Dealers for them. Trans fluid, other than World Standard fluid, should be changed at a minimum of 30K. I have a 04 Camry and a 09 Sienna. The 04 takes T-IV trans fluid and the 09 Sienna takes WS fluid. The 05 Corolla takes T-IV trans fluid.

Now, ME PERSONALLY, and in no way is this a TOYOTA RECOMMENDATION, IT IS JUST SOMETHING I DO, on the 04 Camry, every time I change the oil, I drain my trans fluid and replace it. MY REASONING IS THIS, it doesn't take much effort to drain both at the same time, it doesn't cost me anything more except for fluid. This way, every 3-5K, i get fresh trans fluid. A transmission holds somewhere between 12 -14 quarts of fluid. If at 30K you do a drain and fill, you are only getting about 3-4 quarts out. My method, I get 3-4 out every 3-5k and that way the fluid mixes better and faster. Trans fluid breaks down like oil does, in a different way, but it still breaks down. I have been using this method for over 25 years. I know and don't care who out there will disagree with me, it was taught to me by an old time mechanic and my old fluid looks as fresh as the new does. AGAIN, THIS IS MY PERSONAL TRANSMISSION MAITENANCE, NOT TOYOTA'S RECOMMENDED SERVICE INTERVAL.

I hope this helps out and provides the members with some valuable and useful information. If anyone needs anything, or have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me.

FYI: I do sell to TN members for 30% off MSRP and I only charge actual shipping costs plus $1.00 - $2.00 for materials, etc.

Originally Posted by clarinet

I went to the local dealer for maintenance of my 2005 Corolla. It's about 63000 miles, and I only asked for oil change. Later the dealer called me to recommend a replacement of the drive belt tensioner (part number 16620-0w093, part price $187, and 2hr labor for $200), plus a related item maybe called tesioner assembly chain (part number 13540-0D010, and price $33, and 1 hr labor for $100). Plus, it also recommends the flush of the power drive fluid, brake fluid, and emission fluid. The reason they gave about replacing the tensioner is that something on it is leaking, and said it would be dangerous because the drive belt will become loose if it is not replaced. This is the second time they recommeneded to me, and the last time was I did the previous oil change. I opened the hood and didn't see anything abnormal, and the drive belt sounds fine to me. I am just wondering if it is necessary to change the tensioner or the dealer is just trying to rip me off. How do I tell if the tensioner is leaking, and when I should replace the tensioner? Plus, is it necessary to flush those fluids?