On 99% of the cars I've seen, that part is called the CORE SUPPORT. And that's how we sold them in the wrecking yards I worked at. The top part, that is. Some dealers might have a fancy name for it like "Radiator Upper Support Assembly" or the entire piece might be called a "Radiator Support Assembly". You can probably unbolt one from another car at the wrecking yard (or let them do it). I'll bet you can get the entire piece with just a 10mm and a 12mm socket but it MIGHT be welded in (I'm not super sure about your year of car... some are welded but most are bolted in.) The piece in front of the radiator has another name.
The only place anywhere NEAR Los Angeles who has one from a 2007 (wrecking yard) is:
Hat Auto Recycling
Rancho-Cordova
888-HAT-8082
916-635-0404
You're going to find it pretty hard to find one from a wrecking yard because the car is so new and not many yards have cars that new.
Good luck!
__________________ By the way, "Hairball" was a cat of mine.
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The Following User Says Thank You to hairball For This Useful Post:
Whow, you have a right on the money answer for me! Thanks.
OK but.....
I did see that mines is actually welded! What does this mean for me? more work/can i still do it myself? Any hints or tips since I've not done it before, but my dad's friend has a welding machine and pretty handy with it, can we undo the welding and weld in the new part?
Oh, and since my radiator and AC unit is bent from the collision, should I still use it if there are no leaks, if it fits, I shouldn't have to buy a new radiator right??
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairball
On 99% of the cars I've seen, that part is called the CORE SUPPORT. And that's how we sold them in the wrecking yards I worked at. The top part, that is. Some dealers might have a fancy name for it like "Radiator Upper Support Assembly" or the entire piece might be called a "Radiator Support Assembly". You can probably unbolt one from another car at the wrecking yard (or let them do it). I'll bet you can get the entire piece with just a 10mm and a 12mm socket but it MIGHT be welded in (I'm not super sure about your year of car... some are welded but most are bolted in.) The piece in front of the radiator has another name and I'll get it for you.
I'm quick to admit... I know absolutely NOTHING about welding! I never even used a torch to cut off parts when I was a parts puller (the other guy did those). But I CAN tell you this much:
Your best bet is to call and ask the yard if YOU can remove it yourself. If they say yes, the VERY BEST WAY TO REMOVE IT would be with a Saws-All OR cutting wheel. And since you probably don't want to take a generator with you, you may have to take a cordless drill. If your wheel is NEW, it won't take long. (IF you don't have a cordless drill, you'll need to take an air tank and air drill.) The cutting wheel will produce a very clean, straight, thin cut but not nearly as good as a Saws-All. The "ultimate" method would be to GET a cordless (rechargeable) Saws-All even if you have to rent one for an hour. But you need to be absolutely SURE you have:
1. A good blade (or some extras with you).
2. A fully charged battery.
(Nothing is worse than breaking a blade and not having a spare, or the battery running dead before you're done.)
BUT, if they say they will have to remove it, chances are 99 out of 100 they will use a torch to cut it. In this case, the cut will be sloppy. But there is still hope...
If it is cut off with a torch, all you need to do is cut off the jagged cut at home (or where ever you're doing the work) with a Saws-All or cutting wheel. Cut a very straight line about an inch or less from where the wrecking yard torched it. Then, fit it to yours and mark yours, then cut yours. From there it's a simple weld (welds are simple, aren't they? LOL!). This should work.
To summarize:
Torch cut: GOOD (well, at least okay).
Cutting wheel: BETTER.
Saws-All: BEST.
Hack Saw: MORE WORK AND TAKES LONGER, but WILL work as a last resort.
__________________ By the way, "Hairball" was a cat of mine.
Since I don't use the "GameRoom", can you just send me a check?
Did you get it yet? If not, I just learned something a few minutes ago that I want to share with you. (I posted it as a reply to another thread)...
I was just talking to my brother on the phone while reading your post. How ironic... he's done auto body and frame repair for over 30 years (even schooled and certified). He said you can actually remove the spot welds on most parts like those. He said they are not welded like a long arc weld strip, they are spot welded in several places. He said you can remove most spot welds with a drill but if you go to a wrecking yard, you need to take a good, powerful one with a fully-charged battery and maybe a spare battery because it takes a lot of power and force to remove all the spot welds. But it can be removed without cutting. This usually applies to the "new" one at the wrecking yard but you can maybe get yours off the same way. He also said that BEFORE you remove the one from your car, you need to get it as straight as you can before you remove it, not just remove it. He was calling from work and didn't have a lot of time to explain it all in detail.
__________________ By the way, "Hairball" was a cat of mine.
Since I don't use the "GameRoom", can you just send me a check?
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