dipstick oil tube snapped off - Help !!!

[Jerrymea]

The oil tube that holds my oil dipstick snapped off by the base bolted mount assembly where t it is secured to the engine. I believe I read the the actual tube below the mounting assembly is just a friction fit into the engine block. The dipstick sits just to the right of the alternator but is covered by the molded plastic four black air intake tube sit above where the tubes attaching mount assembly sits.

Does anyone have the procedure for getting to this assembly (broken dipstick tube) assembly for removal and replacement? Does one remove the alternator or the air intake assembly?

Thanks.

[aspen007]

Although I haven't done the replacement, my approach would be to remove the alternator to access the bolt holding the tube. I would also remove the plastic engine cover to get a little better view of the intake manifold area by the tube.

Once the bolt is removed, the tube just pulls out of the base of the engine block. There's an o-ring on the end of the tube that seals the tube opening at the base. There may also be a black plastic clip near the base of the tube holding a wiring harness in place.

I don't know if you'll be able to pull the tube up through the intake manifold or if you'll need to drop it out the bottom of the engine. However, it should come out one way or the other without removing the intake manifold.

Good luck.

[mikered30]

You may have to remove the intake manifold to get to it. Might as well get a the new revised gasket for the intake. Part number for the tube is 11452-22030 ($19) plus you need the o ring.

[Jerrymea]

Thanks for the comments so far. Does anyone have the step by step procedure for air intake removal and the alternator? Or when I can get the repair procedures for this and most other repairs for the 2005 corolla CE?

Thanks

[dorman68]

Hope this helps. I have got gotten this from a service publication.
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: 2005 Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L (1ZZ-FE)

Vehicle Level Starting and Charging Charging System Alternator Service and Repair Replacement Replacement REPLACEMENT

1. DISCONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
2. REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD COVER NO.2 (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)
3. REMOVE AIR SWITCHING VALVE ASSEMBLY (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)
4. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
5. REMOVE FAN AND GENERATOR V BLT

1. REMOVE AIR PUMP OUTLET PIPE (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

• 1. Disconnect the air hose No. 5.
  2. Remove the 2 bolts, then remove the air pump outlet pipe.

1. REMOVE GENERATOR ASSEMBLY

1. Remove the wire harness clamp. (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)
2. Remove the terminal cap No. 2.
3. Remove the nut, then remove the generator wire.
4. Disconnect the generator connector.
5. Remove the wire harness clamp.
6. Disconnect the A/C connector.

1. Remove the bolt, then remove the wire harness clamp bracket. (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

1. Remove the 2 bolts, then remove the generator bracket No. 1. (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

1. Remove the 2 bolts, then remove the generator.

• 1. INSTALL GENERATOR ASSEMBLY

1. Install the generator with the 2 bolts.

Torque:
25 N.m (250 kgf.cm, 18 ft.lbf) for bolt A
54 N.m (550 kgf.cm, 40 ft.lbf) for bolt B (1ZZ-FE ENGINE TYPE)
58 N.m (590 kgf.cm, 43 ft.lbf) for bolt B (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

1. Install the wire harness clamp bracket with the bolt. (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

Torque: 5.4 N.m (55 kgf.cm, 48 in.lbf)

1. Connect the A/C connector.
2. Install the wire harness clamp.
3. Connect the generator connector.
4. Install the generator wire with the nut.

Torque: 9.8 N.m (100 kgf.cm, 7 ft.lbf)

1. Install the terminal cap No. 2.

1. Install the generator bracket No. 1 with the 2 bolts. (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

Torque: 29 N.m (296 kgf.cm, 21 ft.lbf)

1. Install the wire harness clamp.

1. INSTALL AIR PUMP OUTLET PIPE (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)

• 1. Install the air pump outlet pipe with the 2 bolts.

Torque: 7.0 N.m (71 kgf.cm, 62 in.lbf)

• 1. Connect the air hose No. 5.

1. INSTALL FAN AND GENERATOR V BELT
2. INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER RH
3. INSTALL AIR SWITCHING VALVE ASSEMBLY (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)
4. INSTALL CYLINDER HEAD COVER NO.2 (2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE)
5. CONNECT BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL

Torque: 54 N.m (55 kgf.cm, 48 in.lbf)







.

[Jerrymea]

I've got the tube and o-ring on order from local toyota dealer; looks like it will be a couple of days before it arrives.
Thanks for the diagram, I have the 1.8 L 1ZZ FE type engine. service bulleting says its for my engine but the following instructions appear to be for the sister 2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE.

As my alternator belt in now chirping due to winter, I'll likely replace it at the same time. Though the space between the end of the engine and the front wheel well is tight. I"ll remove the alternator first and see if the tube can be replaced without having to removing the air intake cover.

Thanks

[wernermeister]

Originally Posted by Jerrymea

I've got the tube and o-ring on order from local toyota dealer; looks like it will be a couple of days before it arrives.
Thanks for the diagram, I have the 1.8 L 1ZZ FE type engine. service bulleting says its for my engine but the following instructions appear to be for the sister 2ZZ-GE ENGINE TYPE.

As my alternator belt in now chirping due to winter, I'll likely replace it at the same time. Though the space between the end of the engine and the front wheel well is tight. I"ll remove the alternator first and see if the tube can be replaced without having to removing the air intake cover.

Thanks

Well, my alternator belt is now NOT chirping due to winter.... should I be concerned?
I.e. what does the winter have to do with the "belt chirping"?

[aspen007]

Cold temperature can affect several items on the engine ncluding the texture and pliability of the drive belt. Sometimes that causes a belt to slip and other times it causes the belt to stop slipping.

Either way, the temperature should not affect your drive belt's function. You need check to out the belt and tensioner to find out what's wrong.

Most likely the belt needs replacement.

[Jerrymea]

Turning out the belt needed replacement. I tried putting prestone belt dressing on first;which made it way worse. I local mechanic said (never use belt dressing such as prestone) it only helps for a while but over the long run is worse on the belt. He said use some WD-40 (oil) to see if that gets rid of chirping. If it goes away then the belt needs replacing, if not its one of the pulleys. Put on a new belt and the chirping is gone.

The dipstick replacement tube with 0-ring should be in tomorrow. Thanks for all the help and diagrams I believe it's doable by removing the alternator.

[Jerrymea]

Removing the fanbelt for alternator then removing the alternator allow access to replace the dipstick tube replacement. Replacing the current fan belt with a Gates belt also got rid of all the squealing.

Thanks all for all the help and diagrams.

[keloglan]

My car's oil check stick tube is broken, around 20centimeters (~8inches) from the top. When I pull out the the stick, the top of the tube comes out with it. The dealer said that they will receive the parts next week and it is safe to drive the car. I was planning for a long weekend trip (mainly on the highway and some mountains). Any comments if it is safe to drive high speeds and up/down hills with a broken oil stick ?.